So, can i use say, 30,000 micro farrad caps ? And i guess the output of my circuit will dictate the rate of charge in my caps. What caps are you using ?
That should work fine. Usually the cap has to completely drain to the battery voltage before the scr will unlatch with this type of cap dump circuit which isn't ideal
@tvdylan you can't stop ithe scr from latching it won't unlatch till the voltage of the cap is the same as the battery voltage so if you're using a large cap it won't unlatch till the voltage equalizes Only way around it is to build the mosfet dump circuit
@@windpowerandmore6310 mm! Well ill have a go with the scr and observ how it works. Got some in the post. Have you done the mosfet dump ? Ive seen a guy using a mosfet with a halogen light dump circuit kinda thing. And i did download the bedini comparitor schematic. Might build that one day! Alot more complex tho.
@tvdylan if you watch my videos you will see that's what I use and even posted the schematic of the circuit and give throughout details about how to tune it
I have a wee Q. If you can adapt a fan to the rotor, would it not be helpful overall to adapt a secondary rotor with permanent mags? Thus giving the potential for a generator. Of course, another set of windings etc. I currently am using parts of an alternator for such and rectifying. Also I run horizontally. (It's just easier for me to build). I can create quite a bit of power with this extra component. Still under build BTW. I wish I had ya talents & look forward to future vids.
Yeah you can it will raise or lower the voltage at which it will dump at... always start with the pot turned so it has the least resistance and turn up once the circuit is on or else you will burn the pot out if the voltage is high then try turning it down
Have you heard of Weigand Wire or Weigand Effect? It's a special wire made from Vicalloy material that generates an self inducing high voltage every time whether a magnet or an iron cores magnetic field reverses its north and south polarity. Sounds very interesting and probably a good candidate if you made a bifilar copper/vicalloy coil to generate more back spike out of the pulse motor setup without paying for energy.
@@windpowerandmore6310There's lots of information online about its energy scavenging capabilities in spite of it being a scarce uncommon material. I'm thinking of buying a 20kg spool to try it out. There's one supplier in china 'ive found called "Xunshi". that makes it and ships it within 3 months costing around $600 aud. Im going to dedicate some savings to buy. Might be a winning ticket, who knows as it hasn't been tried before and makes sense logically to put two n two together :)
It has something to do with the high coercivity property of a soft core around the outer shell of the wire which enables to flips its magnetic field domains much more efficiently than most ferrite metals. When you get a chance, do some further research. it keeps getting better and better on what this weigand effect can do
Looks like you're separating stones from sand and clays. Is this layered earth, from glacial terminal moraine, or a dry riverbed meander? They must be loading his truck with some hopper feed. You probably know what he's hauling, I'd guess crushed road bed aggregates? Those white stones in the there, in the right foreground, go through a crusher at some other quarry just down the road from where you are loading during the video. I'm interested in a simple wind generator, would be nice for 1Kw@30MPH, and not require a 40ft tower.
PNP/NPN??? What are you talking about, this is a mosfet????? As for "Real 100A Fet", the specs should be taken with care. At 100A that mosfet will EXPLODE, it CANNOT take 550W of heat (100x100x0.055 from I^2 x 0.055 mosfet Rds) No way Hose!!!! BTW as you can see from the maths, VOLTAGE does not affect power loss as heat here! Something like an IXFK160N30T would stand a much better chance (it has 0.019 Rds and is designed for large heat transfer to a heatsink, so the now reduced 190w (at 100amps) is doable! Gat capacitance might be a problem, as SSR's are not exactly known for they high gate drive (or speed), and during the transistion there is a brief time of MASSIVE power loss (I am talking thousands of watts), so this must be kept short or once again the mosfet will EXPLODE!!!!!!!! :)
@@windpowerandmore6310 hauuuuhh???? I know what they are, and they are NOT a mosfet, ....what are you saying???? fiy I am a retired electronics design engineer, I do know what I am talking about most of the time :)
If you read into the specs for these SSRs, as the current capability goes up, you need more then just the air cooled heat sink. They require water cooled heat sinks. I was looking for a 50amp relay, and that required water cooled. I was looking for a TRIAC type, for AC switching. But the cheap chinease copies are no where capable of the marked current.
@@windpowerandmore6310 RU-vid randomly suggested your video. I was hoping you were fixing the TRIAC type. My application was to use an SSR for a minisplit, to cycle power with a timer. The local power company adopted a KWHr price per time of day. From 4pm to 10pm, it's over $.16, and that's only going to get crazy in the future. No clue where all the green energy for charging vehicles is going to come from. At any rate, I shut the AC/HP down during that time. Some thermostats support time off on a clock. Not this unit, and it requires a custom thermostat, just two wires with DC and diplexed digital on top of that. So to fix that, use an external timer that 'unplugs' the power with a relay. This is a 42KBTU, with 50amp requirement, and reading up on the SSRs, found they need water cooling at that current. Gee's who's going to add that complexity to a relay? Not me! The FOTEK branded SSRs from eBay are mostly counterfeit from China, and need a 50% derating. I did burn one up, 40amp. It was running a 3KW radiant heater in the shop. I have them as dual, as well a mechanical thermostat in series as a high-limit as I don't need a shop fire.
These SSR's seen here seem to be a real "CON JOB" by the manufacturer , a TO-247 device package shown here can handle it's I^2R power dissipation only with an adequately sized & cooled heat spreader/heatsink..( the one shown looks inadequate.. 2) D/S leads must be as short as possible 3) gate drive of 3 -7 volts is inadequate..it should be 10-15 volts at least... 4) for better understanding of such high power device packaging & power handling please see the internal construction of power modules (70-200Amps) of reputed device manufacturers like .. SEMIKRON , TOSHIBA , SIEMENS, FUJISTU , etc. & related application notes.
I know all that and I agree with you. You'll also see in the video I said I wouldn't put 100amps through it even with the real 100a fet . I also trigger with 12v minimum
Keep in mind that an 80W LED bulb draws about 8W to deliver the same amount of lumens, compared to an incandescent bulb. Also keep in mind that the transformer magnetic field saturates when driven with a square wave, so there are significant energy spikes during transitions (overshoot/undershoot/ringing), so simple measuring equipment such as analog meters will read higher than actual values. Basically, you've made a cheap power inverter.
You told me a while ago in the comments that you can up scale this stuff. Do you think you might do that and power a battery bank or caps - enough to power a household power load or buddy up this with your wind mill work and thats incredible enough by itself.
Yes bud it can be upscaled I actually have a device that puts out 1200w of continuous heat energy that I've never fully showed here on RU-vid but it's been thoroughly tested for a couple years straight without shutting off once I might decide one day to show it in action but it's a incredibly complicated solid state device not to mention its a incredibly dangerous device too. The only moving parts that it has is its cooling fans .
NICE VIDEO! I seem to have some problems with the balancers with large banks of series supercaps and these "balancers". My application is using the 3000F caps in series to produce well over 50v...sometimes more. The problem is that they are charged at high rates...HUNDREDS OF AMPS... and sometimes discharged into heavy-current loads. CAN THESE BALANCERS REALLY WORK AT THESE CURRENTS??? I am even thinking of removing them completely if they are actually useless at these levels...they do seem to balance OK on their own. Your option would be greatly appreciated! THANKS MUCH. --dAle
You're right... you would have to balance the bank at a low current and just enough to hold the bank about .2 of a volt above the 2.7v per cap so 2.9v per cap until each cap is equal. After that they should be balanced but whether they will stay balanced with the high current levels I'm not sure I'd like to know and maybe I'll do some testing because that's a really good question I'd like to know also
Your circuit diagram does not show the 7812 regulator centre pin(gnd) connected to your circuit negative (gnd). Also a couple of 0.1uF capacitors, one between 7812 input and gnd, and another between 7812 output and gnd to help with noise and regulation. Connect those capacitors as close to the 7812 as possible.
@@windpowerandmore6310 Read the data sheet for the regulator, admittedly manufacturers differ in capacitor value, but they recommend more than one, and to position them as close to the regulator pins as possible. A 33uF is okay, but only up to a certain frequency, to bypass at higher frequencies you need a polyester cap that is better at the higher frequencies. Same reason a 0.1uF on pin 5 of the LM555 to gnd. Have you got the gnd of the regulator connected to the gnd/neg power pin of the LM555? WIthout it you will not have a stable 12V supply for the LM555. Have you measured it.
Yes you're right about the ground I drew that up quickly as I'm extremely busy and exhausted thank you for catching that I'll pin this comment and I'll update the drawing asap it needs to be connected absolutely
I hope that helps I forgot to put the resistor on the gate and source of the schematic drawing. 10k should work fine for most voltages unless you're trying to dump from a cap bank in the 100v range then I'd add a higher resistance. This resistance will also effect the duty cycle somewhat so it may take some tuning .
I forgot also to connect the voltage regulator ground to the 555 just make that connection also its absolutely necessary everything has a common ground
Love your builds man, can't wait to try some of your ideas out. PS: Where do you get a 'met glass' rod like you used in the second circuit? I can't find reference to them anywhere online.
Thanks! youtube.com/@MTECHINDUSTRIES2022?si=w-1oFGqSva69TjEI That's the link to the guys channel That I was replicating his circuit. I altered the circuit so I could use the transistor that I already had and got some really good results. Everything he said seems to be accurate. Here's the link to buy the rods He also has links to most of the components in some of his videos I highly recommend watching his videos if you're interested in that circuit metglas.com
At 0.24, 42 500Farad caps in series = 500/42 = 11.9 Farad. Do you have a full schematic of the system, just wires hooked up here and there don't tell much of a story.
I found it depends mainly on how much input going into the motor and also timing is VERY important. Frequency of the pwm makes a huge difference and definitely depends on the coils and number of magnets on the rotor for best backspike output. As for the highest amps I found the Mosfet circuit I have built is very tunable and can deliver a huge amount of current or next to nothing depending on how it's set. The SCR however can deliver a huge pulse also as long as the voltage gets high enough in the cap. Large cap value is key to getting large amps at a lower voltage. Lower value caps will require a much higher voltage to achieve higher Amp pulse. Both circuits are capable of giving close to the same results but cap size is key to getting the results that you need and will have to be sized accordingly to the situation. I hope that helps
