My application is unique as I'm using a '95 5.8W in a '74 F100. Using everything down to the serpentine system, alternator, Power steering and A/C compressor. I couldn't get mine to charge. Put 12V Ignition Power to the Green wire. Took care of my problem. Thank you for the video! I knew what to do with the green wire after watching. Again, Thank you!
You're welcome. I knew it would help somebody. These are pretty nice alternators because they are self contained/regulated. No need for any controllers or regulators. Seems great for beta builds or one off projects. At least in your case you should have plenty of room in that engine bay to set everything how you like. Do you have a video of progress on your truck? I love Fords.
Thanks. Ive been trying to figure out if the S wire is suppose to have voltage and how to check it. Test light works on the A terminal and is dim on the I terminal but im getting nothing on the S. Im going to have my alt tested tomorrow. Its a reman from oriellys that was possibly bad out of the box. 😩
I tried connecting the I green wire to 12 volts just to see if that's the reason my alt isn't charging but that didn't work either. So I don't think it's my wire. I'm hoping it's just a bad alt.
So you're testing on an alternator like the one I have? An internally regulating unit? You have 3 wires at the plug? What car are you working on? Does your car have a battery light symbol when you put the ignition in RUN? The S wire needs to be 12v on vehicles without a battery lamp in the dashboard. NORMALLY S wire goes right back to blade on alternator.
@@jessigames8593 Do you have a volt meter? Green wire "I" to negative on the battery needs to read the same voltage as positive to negative on the battery when the battery is connected and the ignition is in RUN
@@TheCrazyracer1984 it's 96 Ford bronco same 3g alt with 3 wire plug and stator going back to the alt. Yellow wire has constant power, green wire makes test light dim with key on, stator has nothing. Key on or off. But I'm not sure how to test that wire.
Well it’s been 2 years sense this video and I need a answer please I have a 97 f350 psd and I have no power at those 3 wires at any time is there anything you could think of that would cause this
You need to see battery voltage on A and B+ when the battery is connected. That's the minimum to know you have a connected battery. No voltage, no connected battery.
If an Integra made all that damage just imagine getting rear ended by a F150 or worse. I daily drive a newer one with the 1.6 and a clutch. A rather shitty car IMO, not reliable and not brilliant on fuel, not at all.
You wont be able to see much, it's mostly by feel. At 3:48 you can see the resistor pins when I move the connector. I didn't shine light directly on it because the reflection would glare out the camera. Good luck!
I think your fiesta is a scam ... In your video I didn't see the metal crash bar behind the plastic bumper on the back... In the past I have seen fiestas missing of that protection.. please let me now if I am correct..
@@TheCrazyracer1984 No.. what I'm say isn't a thin plate at all.. Its a bar from one side to the other (Like the frond one), and hold on the lower frame of the chassis
It comes down to luck. The randomness of the universe or divine intervention, your pick. I walked away without a scratch but turned out the guy didn't have insurance and things still haven't settled in court. I'm still happy I wasn't hurt. Take what you can get.
Are you talking about the cable with a ring terminal and 10mm nut? That's the charge/battery cable. If your battery is connected you should see about 12volts on it. Dont let it touch a ground because you will damage that cable. It has fuses built into the cable.
hey, I have a question about plastic cover you are mentioning at 1:12 minute and 4:58 minute shows attachment points for it. Mine is missing and I don't know how it looks. I found something on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/362589974442?ul_noapp=true Is that it?
That's a super complicated question. Buuuut, if your resistor smells/looks or feels burned, replace it. If it works but then burns again or it didn't fix the problem at all then go buy a motor. Even then you cant be sure unless you check all your wiring and mechanicals. The motor could be seized or jammed so electrical readings wont tell you anything besides the motor is good. The motor might turn fine and wiring is ok but you have bad power to the unit or your control knob could be bad. You'd basically need to be a mechanic to know it's one or the other. Even then... look, if your symptoms match and you're not an expert, try the simplest, cheapest, thing. After that doesnt work you can tear the dash apart and replace the motor. And if that dont work then you were better off taking it to a shop.
Yeah, I'm glad nobody was in the backseat! Serious back injuries for sure. And remember, a small car hit me, not a suburban or a super duty, or worse, a semi truck/bus. Who knows what that would have looked like. And yet, I liked my car. I'm looking for another one actually. I will avoid having anyone back there though. Amazing I walked out of that with hardly a scratch.
@@ajsmusic723 Yeah it still opens and latches. I imagine if I got hit differently maybe it wouldn't. I miss driving that car. It was perfect for little errands around town.
At 3:28 you can see where the keeper rod is installed. There was a normal 8mm bolt there. Remove it and install the new standoff so you can attach the keeper rod there. Use it to hold the belt like you see in the video. If you don't, the belt will slip off the pulleys during install. Once the belt is on, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE ROD! But leave the new stud there.
I didn't realize I talked so much. The important stuff starts around 6:30. Before that I just talk about the symptoms and about methods for testing the wiring.
So on on my 2000 ford expedition, I have no voltage on "s" . this is on a new alternator and it was tested good but my battery is still not charging. I have been working on cars for 35 years and this is driving me nuts
I don't think you'll see a voltage unless it's running and even then you'd need an o scope because it's pretty much a signal to the rectifier circuits that the alternator is running. It is my understanding that it is a clock pulse in Ford alternators. Like a cpu clock. The circuits wait until they see a voltage signal to do something. Everytime the stator gives a pulse it triggers the rectifier electronics. Or I could be wrong. I'm not a professional mechanic.
Wow great video. I have the exact car you have (2012 Fiesta SES Violet Gray) & Ford just told me I needed the accessory belt changed due to cracking at only 53,000 miles. This BS factory belt wore out too fast. What did I do wrong? I drove it normal the entire time. Whatever. Nice video, my man. I have a belt saved in my wish list on Amazon, since I don't have a jack or jack stands.
Belts don't always deteriorate with mileage. You can have dry rot and climate conditions will affect it. I think these stretchy belts are more susceptible to cracking over time. I got 100000+ out of mine. But better catch it early, before you have a real problem.
Same happened to me, starting with 1, then 2 going out. 3 is barely blowing at this point, so I replaced the resistor as shown here and it's back to normal ^¬^
Tyler Neff make sure the belt is behind the holding rod and the tool has the tab in the position 1 hole with the hook resting inside the pulley. you may have to keep one hand on the head of the ratchet to hold the belt to the tool while you start to tension it. there's a video in the comments that shows the exact moment the belt rides over the top of the pulley. i couldn't capture it because you need 2 hands to install the belt and i don't have a stand
My transmission has always had a problem of disengaging sometimes when going into reverse. other than that its been pretty good to me. mine has 186000 miles on it but i have the manual transmission. i dont like automatic transmissions because of all the things that can go wrong with them. sounds like i made the right choice.
the tools come with the oem belt good sir. and the belt kit is still cheaper than a regular belt for many other cars plus it has plenty of space to work on, overall not too bad.
