My application is unique as I'm using a '95 5.8W in a '74 F100. Using everything down to the serpentine system, alternator, Power steering and A/C compressor. I couldn't get mine to charge. Put 12V Ignition Power to the Green wire. Took care of my problem. Thank you for the video! I knew what to do with the green wire after watching. Again, Thank you!
You're welcome. I knew it would help somebody. These are pretty nice alternators because they are self contained/regulated. No need for any controllers or regulators. Seems great for beta builds or one off projects. At least in your case you should have plenty of room in that engine bay to set everything how you like. Do you have a video of progress on your truck? I love Fords.
I didn't realize I talked so much. The important stuff starts around 6:30. Before that I just talk about the symptoms and about methods for testing the wiring.
So on on my 2000 ford expedition, I have no voltage on "s" . this is on a new alternator and it was tested good but my battery is still not charging. I have been working on cars for 35 years and this is driving me nuts
I don't think you'll see a voltage unless it's running and even then you'd need an o scope because it's pretty much a signal to the rectifier circuits that the alternator is running. It is my understanding that it is a clock pulse in Ford alternators. Like a cpu clock. The circuits wait until they see a voltage signal to do something. Everytime the stator gives a pulse it triggers the rectifier electronics. Or I could be wrong. I'm not a professional mechanic.
Thanks. Ive been trying to figure out if the S wire is suppose to have voltage and how to check it. Test light works on the A terminal and is dim on the I terminal but im getting nothing on the S. Im going to have my alt tested tomorrow. Its a reman from oriellys that was possibly bad out of the box. 😩
I tried connecting the I green wire to 12 volts just to see if that's the reason my alt isn't charging but that didn't work either. So I don't think it's my wire. I'm hoping it's just a bad alt.
So you're testing on an alternator like the one I have? An internally regulating unit? You have 3 wires at the plug? What car are you working on? Does your car have a battery light symbol when you put the ignition in RUN? The S wire needs to be 12v on vehicles without a battery lamp in the dashboard. NORMALLY S wire goes right back to blade on alternator.
@@jessigames8593 Do you have a volt meter? Green wire "I" to negative on the battery needs to read the same voltage as positive to negative on the battery when the battery is connected and the ignition is in RUN
@@TheCrazyracer1984 it's 96 Ford bronco same 3g alt with 3 wire plug and stator going back to the alt. Yellow wire has constant power, green wire makes test light dim with key on, stator has nothing. Key on or off. But I'm not sure how to test that wire.
Well it’s been 2 years sense this video and I need a answer please I have a 97 f350 psd and I have no power at those 3 wires at any time is there anything you could think of that would cause this
You need to see battery voltage on A and B+ when the battery is connected. That's the minimum to know you have a connected battery. No voltage, no connected battery.
Are you talking about the cable with a ring terminal and 10mm nut? That's the charge/battery cable. If your battery is connected you should see about 12volts on it. Dont let it touch a ground because you will damage that cable. It has fuses built into the cable.
