cool video, as detailed as anyone could wish for.. i have one of these for a few years but had not yet got to work on it, and now when looking at it i'm afraid the rust and pitting is a bit to much to save it.. hope i come across another better preserved one to restore soon though.. cheers
@@thehandtoolworks what happened? why no more video's, your cinematography (and no talking) + your great skills are really among the best in it's genre here on YT!! anyhow, just wanted to say i really enjoyed all video's, thanks for sharing..
Thanks for showing us your method and sharing your knowledge. I would like to know what it is that you mean by numbering the auger drill bits No. 2 and thru No. 8? Was there a numbering system ? .... A nieghbor gave me a box filled to remove the rust....Is it important. Thank you again...Deeman OORAH!!
Hi @gunnyoorah1846, the auger bits are numbered by 16ths of an inch, so a No. 8 would drill a hole 8/16ths or half an inch in diameter. A standard set has all the increments from No. 4 to No. 16. Bits larger than No. 16 exists but are much harder to find. Good luck!
I was mightily relieved to see how you preserved the patina on the handle, using steel wool and not a belt sander!!! Kudos to you for for that. However I noticed you didn't restore the medallion? While I understand your concern for the piece, the best, and safest method is to use ammonia and 0000 grade still wool, not foregetting good vernitalion for the fumes. Gentle but firm rubbing will give you a magnificent finish that does not remove but polishes, thereby preserving any tiny marks that give the saw its character. The well-restored medallion puts the final touch to a remarkable antique saw that will delight everyone who sees it.
Very nice to see hand work, especially done so lovingly. Thanks for sharing. By the way, that piece of Pearwood is particularly beautiful- it ended up looking almost like Alabaster!
Waaayyy too much work up front! Take a few paper towels soaked in vinegar and keep it wet for a few hours. Scrub with a vinegar-soaked ScotchBrite, rinse and 90% of that scraping is eliminated. Follow up with 120 grit sandpaper with oil and you’re done. Then the real work begins.
So Rad brother! Just awesome and absolutely amazing work 👍…. I am working on mine this week but no RU-vid video yet! I’m about 2-3 years in restoration projects! So Fun and I learn so much from guys like you!
I have a froe that is very similar to yours. The handle was also wedged like your original handle was. I too want to replace the handle with a friction fit version like you did. You've inspired me to get mine out and restore it. I wonder if they were made around the same time.
Hi @andrzejs4296, this page has some info on dating Miller's Falls braces: oldtoolheaven.com/millers-falls/brace/brace5.htm. Vintage tool catalogs are also a good resource for dating: archive.org/details/MillersFallsCatalogNo391925/mode/2up
Hi @jonesey1981, I use scraping and light sanding to remove the well adhered rust then finish with a soft wire wheel. This does a good job of removing surface rust and polishing the steel a bit while preserving the patina, which is the look I'm after.
Nice job! You did a nice preservation and did not go overboard on restoration. By that I mean some guys make tools look brand new again, to me that wipes out the tool's history. Well done! Cheers from Oregon!
Excellent, informative video. I was given about 4-5 bits in bad shape. I hope to put them to use. Some appear to have no spurs. Most do not advance into the work and this probably means I have to address the snail. I had never heard of or seen a thread file. Very interesting.
hi @paleblueafghan, leaving a gap prevents the shoulder of the handle from driving into the rim of the socket which could cause the wood to split; it also helps ensure that the handle can still be seated tightly in the socket if there's some shrinkage in the wood.
I picked one of these up for free with the miter box. Considering keeping it around after this motivating restoration. Might save some time on the shooting board once dialed in!
hi @rp6879, I go by muscle memory but one could use a bevel gauge to check the angle. In general it's ok just to get the bevel angle in the right ballpark and usually you can follow the existing bevel.
As someone who has been restoring antique tools, both hand and powered , I've neve seen or used motor oil to clean a blade before. It came out great. You could bring it back even more be using something like WD-40 which is not as heavy as motor oil. I think you may find any residue getting gummy after use in combination with sawdust and dirt. I would recommend not using find steel wool until after you sanded the grime off. If you use a fine grit it will take it right off. A heavier grit like 80 or 120 would remove the finish, which I do for a full restoration and after the wood is cleaned of dust, I would use as you did, Danish oil, or some other good penitrating oil. Hemp is very good as well. I would not put a shellac on, maybe wipe on poly, but honestly, the wood becomes very dry after 100 or more years and after the first application, I will go back a few more times, letting it dry in-between. Saws are one of my favorite tools to use and restore. I once came across a crudely painted saw at a tag sale. The had it hanging on the barn at one point. I looked very carefully and I had an idea that it was a mid 1800s saw and fairly rare. I bought for $8.00 and stripped the paint off. And sure enough it was an early limited produced Disston panel saw. It was worth a couple of hundred dollars 20 years ago, but I kept it instead. I use it occasionally, but it is hanging on the wall of my shop along with other tools I have collected. Even the rare handplanes I've restored, I use them all of the time. If I was going to sell them, I wouldn't use them. One of the rabbit planes I have that is made out of nickle, brass, and Indian Rosewood. It's a gorgeous looking plane, but it also cuts like a hot knife thru butter. A real pleasure to use. I look forward to your other videos! Thank you for posting this.
It's like RU-vid can read my mind. I was considering going as far as Frankensteining an old brace and having someone weld an eye to it but it seems wrong butcher a functioning tool. This is perfect. Thanks!
