I'm currently restoring a 1972 C3 Corvette and posting "How I Did It" videos of various steps in the this process. I try to avoid topics/tasks that I feel have already been widely covered on RU-vid. My goal is to add videos of topics and tasks that I can't find much content for while showing the overall progression of a project like this. I'm an engineer and business owner (of a small manufacturing company - so this provides me with many tools and other resources), not a mechanic. This is my first car restoration and my first "stab" at posting videos. I'm not doing this in hopes of making money, just doing it to be informative and hopefully inspire others to take on similar projects.
Hello Mike, great video. would you be able to help me out and provide the info on the 2 fuels lines on the right side (passenger) of the frame. Would you happen to know the part number. Thank you
Hi Vince, I don't recall the part numbers (it has been a few years) but I pretty sure I bought them from either Corvette Central or Ecklers. Check their websites. Good luck with your project!
Hello, does the new header bar fit flush with the original fiber glass surround? I followed your process and the fiberglass surround has to be flexed to fit the new header bar.
It has been awhile, but as I recall the left side has the rear brake line and the fuel tank vent. The right side has the fuel supply and fuel return. Hope that helps!
Great video! Though as an airframer who worked with composites, seeing you take the wire brush to the fiberglass hurt. Look into nylon abrasive brushes if you really need to use one, they work as good as a wire brush (maybe a hair slower), but are a bit less aggressive, and less likely to tear into the fiberglass.
I want to know what was used to fit into the round holes on the lift arms. I see the big bolts but see a green cylinder looking thing when underneath the mower. Can you give some details please?
Nothing, the Corvette uses a full frame unlike most cars it's size and there is no extra bracing between coupe and convertible. The 69 and newer frame is stronger than the 68 as they did add some rear bracing but that was for all cars. There are two small braces under the dash on convertibles that help prevent cowl shake which was really bad on early 68s but thats it, nothing underneath on the frame, the factory frame plenty strong enough.
Its seems like grinding the rivets and pulling off the metal in one piece would be better, if you want to reuse. The rivets would be sticking out and you can grab with a pliers?
Hey Mike. Great job. I presently have a 74 t-top. It was garage kept since 86 but is in need of some tender loving care. Cant find anyone who is willing to work on it in my area. Sold my 70 convertible, like a fool, back in 72 when I got married. Wish I still had that. Great work on your 72. Tom, Chesterfield, Va.
You did a very good job . I have heard of guys installing the header panel and it wasn't lined up proper which made it very hard to get the head light back in place and lined up.
Wow, I know I'm replying to an old video, but I had to say: your final Underneath shot is really beautiful. It looks great, congrats on seeing your hard work come together!
I did have that conversation with the guy who painted it beforehand. He preferred to have it on the frame. There wasn't any overspray, but the frame did get dusty. I was able to wipe all of it off but it took some time.
No, always paint is mounted to the frame and all four tires on the ground. Reason= let the entire body settle plus making certain all body gaps are perfect .
Assuming no greasy hands on the freshly sandblasted frame nothing is better than a few coats of epoxy primer (primer and activator “2k” 2 component).Then if desired an inferior 1 k /single stage paint spray bomb can be used (if one insists
You didn’t show any of the prep work needed to lift body. According to your video, I can just put hooks under the body and lift it off. This earns you a 😂 thumbs down.
I struggled with one of the rear ones because it was so rusty. I ended up cutting it to get it out. No big deal though - I replaced all 8 of them with new ones. Good luck!
Built a motorcycle lift jig similar to this a few years back, except I have it set up where it attaches to all 4 lift arms. Takes away that "flex" you were talking about. Sits solid as a rock, I do use a tie down like you did, only as a little assurance. Good video though.
I have spent $28,851 on this project which includes $9,000 for paint and $2,800 for the engine rebuild. I paid $13,000 for the car initially, so my total is $41,851. I'm not planning to sell this car, but that's more spent than it's probably worth at this point. Good luck with your project!
Hi Mike, interested in the construction of your body dolly. Did you use a 2x3 instead of a 1x3 at the rear body mount position? From the video it appears that you used a 1x3 and notched it.
