Sweet! I'm glad you did the video. I have a 15 y/o 1/3 hp Craftsman. Cheap fix. This video saving me some time in figuring disassembly plan. I wonder if the coupling breaking is a sign that something else is going bad. Hmm.
Why do all you guys show up to the point of replacing the primary cover and not show what it takes to actually get it back on. It is very difficult to put it back working with aligning the gearshift but ALL you guys cut the video and when you come back the primary is already on. That's lame.
Can't disagree there. if I had an extra set of hands that would be ideal. I respectfully disagree on difficulty. follow the process, and prepare the surfaces correctly. starting around minute 21, and it will not be very difficult I promise you. you are of course welcome to improve by adding even more detail, or continue to bite the helpful hand and take a long walk off a short bridge. either way, good luck in your endeavors
I just read a handy tip online. It was suggested to go buy 3" long M6 threaded bolts from the hardware store. Cut the heads off and hand thread them into the engine case. You can now slide your gasket over the bolts then slide the cover on. Now one at a time you can unscrew your homemade guide bolts and replace with the factory allen head bolts. Sounds like a fairly easy way to do it.
Not the best quality, but this video was exactly what I needed to see to figure out how to replace my coupler. In my case, I only had to remove the first two rail screws - that allowed the rail to slide back far enough for me to put in the coupler. $7 and 15 minutes to fix...wonder how much garage guy would have charged...? Thanks again
Nice job X 2. Kelly helped me do my Barnett Clutch replacement. The Barnett Clutch Spring Compression Tool - 317-85-30016 eliminates one step, cause it has a partial threaded bolt that matches where the shifter rod attaches to. fortnine.ca/en/barnett-clutch-spring-compression-tool-317-85-30016
Thank you so much Byran!! I couldn't figure out what the problem was. Then I seen the broken coupler on the floor. I did exactly as you had on your video. Took two zip ties and place them on each side of the motor to hold it up on the brackets. Pulled the rail and motor away from each other, place the coupler in. Tighten screws on the motor and bracket and did the same for the rail. I am 60 years old and learned alot today. Thank you once again.
Nice job! Thanks for taking the time to go into some more details on the snap rings, that will really help others see how it all comes out and goes back.
You were better than most, but you still didn't show putting on the coupler. Everything is in the details. I guess I'll do my own video to do it right.
Thanks for your video, Bryan! I found the part on Amazon, and followed your instructions to a T. Getting the coupler on at the end was the hardest part, but it works. I managed to impress my wife too ;)
Thanks for the video, saved me a ton of money having to call someone. I couldn't replace the coupling with just disconnecting the rail as I could not get enough clearance and had to remove the motor as well. A bit more challenging but still better than paying a repair guy. Thanks for the help.
Thanks Brian my garage door coupler broke last night went to the garage door parts store "thanks Aldoor" here in Jacksonville Florida paid 4 dollars and fixed it. Like you stated earlier i had to readjust the door down switch which took about 10 minutes. Now it works like and champ and my wife is happy LOL
Does it matter where the door is attatched to the roller(?) whatever it's called, where the rope is. I was told that it needed to be in the right spot when the coupler was changed in order to not throw off the distance controls? Thanks
If you have cycled your garage door button a few times trying to figure out why it's not working, like I did, then yes most likely you will need some adjustment. There are screws on the side of the unit for controlling lift. It took me 7-8 cycles to get the door back to where it was touching the ground and not bottoming out and coming back up.
I didnt have this problem. The wiring is typically at the back of the motor facing away from the garage door. There are usually set screws to hold the wiring so just take a picture of how they are connected then disconnect as needed to give yourself the extra length to clear the coupler.
Thanks for the video, I have the Chamberlain Liftmaster 1/2 HP and its he same part number. I bought it off of amazon (LiftMaster Screw Drive Coupler 25C20 Chamberlain Craftsman Garage Door Opener). As Pranay Shah said I only had to take the rail screws off and not the ceiling mount screws. I dont know why the made that piece out of plastic I know in another 10 years I'll need another one.Thanks again pal!
my garage door wont open or close fully after replacing the coupler ...i played around with up and down limits but its not helping share your adjustments after installation . thanks
I have this same problem right now. I just ordered the part for 4.00. Hope its here this weekend. Will let you know how it works out. The old coupling is shredded.
Just wanted to say thank you for the video. Saved me from having to call someone, and only had to pay $7 for the coupler. I only had to take out the rail screws and didn't have to do anything with the ceiling mount screws.
+Bryan Lyde Thank you so much for posting this. I was able to replace my coupler this past weekend. I did end up having to take the motor casing down but I believe that is because I did not have enough room like you did. Needless to say, put it up there and it works like a champ now!! Thanks again!!!
+Pranay Shah my garage door wont open or close fully after replacing the coupler ...i played around with up and down limits but its not helping share your adjustments after installation . thanks
how about the force..i ended up calling a garage company they wanted to charge $125 ..they say door is too heavy needs spring tension adjusted ...dont know how this happened..any suggestions..
