Hey Kel, really awesome video man, what grit paper should i use to get oem paint off? I tried on my bike fairings and its taken ages for me, i used 400 grit but i feel like theres a quicker way to get it off, cheers
Hi Michael, You don't have to get the paint off. Just get it smooth to the feel, it does not matter what it looks like as long as it feels smooth. Then coat it with 2K primer filler, once dry wet sand with 600 grit. That is it, you are ready for colour. You can use 320 grit to remove the paint. Just make sure to use a good primer filler over the 320 grit scratches. I would not apply top coats over anything lower than 600 grit.
What type and brand do you use for the paint? I am worried to use the wrong ones and the job will get destroyed when spilling fuel on it. I would appreciate any advice or guidance, thanks.
The type of paint does not matter. However the clear coat which provides the protection has to be 2K for best results. Any good brand is ok to use. Wear a mask when spraying 2K. Good luck..
Kel, thank you for this. I just inherited a 2002 ZX9R, and I'm working on fixing it up and it has some cracked fairings. Thanks to these tutorials, I'm confident I can fix this bike up without having to buy any new cheap fairings. Thank you!
That's brilliant mate! I cracked a few things on a camping trip last week and am loathed to face the cost of replacing them with the likelihood they'll get cracked again. Superb.
Hi Kel - Just found this video and you may actually be some good news I needed. Did you ever do a video showing how to properly paint/spray plastic fairings? My bike was stolen, now found, and is at a shop. One of those situations though where the investment to fix it will outweigh the value of the bike, but I have found a shop that has a great reputation and he understand my situation. Damage is alot of plastic fairings scrapes and imperfections...and then a turn signal, key lockset, brake, clutch lever, clutch, and maybe internal wiring. And I already have all those parts. But just now it dawned on me that maybe all these plastic fairings could be filled in, sanded down, primed, painted, and clear coated. All using the existing parts on my bike. If you have a video after the prep process or how to professional get a high end finish...that would be amazing. I just bought all the fairings OEM, and you can imagine that i now I'm questioning the process. But if I can return those and redirect that money back into the actual labor and mechanical parts necessary to make it safe for me to get back on the road, that would be such a huge help
Go to my channel, there are 2 or 3 vids on how to spay to finish. Try "How to spray a 3 layer pearl" That should start you in right direction. Good luck my friend.
@@howtowithkel3352 Thanks my friend for writing back so quickly. Appreciate it and I will absolutely go find and watch on channell and like and subscribe. If i decide to go this route, I would love to ask for your opinion on a couple things after I actually have access to the bike. Again, thanks so much and have a great weekend ahead.
Good video. Seems your plastex link goes to "unavailable" product site. Also, seems there is no product for the 250g bottle. Where can I purchase same product, available in Canada?
Shit, this video was insanely good, thanks for the amazing tutorial with explanations on why you do things and what is happening, it makes all the difference!
🤩🇺🇸👍⚖️👁️👁️⚖️🇯🇵🏁🏁Great stuff! Will be restoring my 84 Gpz soon! Been mothballed since 94. Fairing was damaged in crash around 88. Original owner. Retirement "Mad Mac" trophy project. Wiseco 810 kit...Kehien CR 33 mm Specials...4 into 1 Vance & Hines exhaust! Flame spitter! Thanks for video! All the best!🏁🏁🏁🏁
it's always been a breeze for me to paint metal, but always an issue with plastic. I was doing a few things wrong. waiting too long for the next coat, and not using wax and grease remover. thanks for the video!
Hi, you need to richen up the air/fuel mixture. It is running to lean. You have 2 screws on the side of the carby. Turn them both about 1 quater turn clockwise, this should sort it out for you.
repainting my bikes fairings soon. I saw what primer and clear coat you used but what kind of paint would you recommend for the actual color.@@howtowithkel3352
Hello, thanks for the video, this was helpful. I’d love to be able to execute this. If you see this and it’s not too much trouble I have a few troubleshooting questions for you, that’s why I’m researching again. I’m painting a road warrior fairing and I’d like for the job to come out successful, the first go came out pretty bad lol. I used a process with rattle cans from a company called Touch Up Direct that guarantees color match. I’ve seen similar jobs done this way that came out good so I figured I’d give it a shot since I don’t have professional equipment. The color wasn’t perfect but it was close enough for me. The flake in it came out very uneven. What happened was I sanded and used oil and grease remover, applied a few coats of primer then used an entire can of color, about 4 coats waiting about 10 minutes in between. I had a couple mishaps during this process and had an issue with debris/ dust finding its way into the paint but it still looked ok. I then put 3-4 coats of clear on and waited 24hours after to dry before I started buffing and polishing. The big issue I noticed was how much orange peel had to be buffed out and almost immediately after I started buffing with the company supplied buffing pad, at the same spot at opposite edges of the fairing, it buffed down to the primer, I wasn’t being aggressive at all. Regardless, I’m left with those white primer marks on either side and still a lot of orange peel around the edges since it was very hard for me to buff around the edges without chipping off paint. I’m wondering why it sanded through the clear and paint so quickly given how much paint and clear was on there, and how can I prevent so much orange peel next time? Should I have sanded the paint and cleaned it again before priming? I felt like it needed that because the paint had a grainy texture that I guess was supposed to be like that to help the primer stick better. Maybe I used too much clear and that’s why I had so much orange peel? I’ve seen professional videos where it looked like they used way more clear than I did. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to be thougough and any advice would certainly help and be appreciated. Thank you
Hi, Lets start with some basics. Ratlle cans at room temp almost always give you orange peel. Get yourself a jug that is about the same size as the cans you are using. Fill the jug with hot water from the tap. NOT boiling water. Stand the cans in the hot water from 10 mins. Take them out of the water and shake them, they should feel hot to hold. Test spray before you start to paint, you will notice that the heat will cause the paint to have more pressure. This will reduce the peel effect. Apply light coats, the first coat should be transparant. Wait 15 mins then apply another light coat, repeat this until you have your desired color. Keep changing the water and put the can back in the fresh hot water between coats. Do this same proccess for the clear coat. I cannot stress enough, LIGHT coats. If you paint to think you will get orange peel again. Take your time and be patient :) As for your panel now. Sand it all flat and start again. Wet sand your undercoat with 600 grit paper before your spray color. This should give you a much better result. Good luck my friend and remember. If I can do it, so can you.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you. This will help. I put the cans in hot water but only before I started the job so they were mostly room temp throughout the process. I’ll be sure to make sure they are warm to the touch at all times now
excellent video! what kind of white paint is best to use on my Fairings? i have an already white cbr600rr and want to redo the fairings in an Arctic white, low gloss finish! thanks! 😊😊
Can you teach us how to fit wire mesh to fairings behind the front wheel to keep engine and 3exhausts cleaner and look nicer please. Ive got some engine fairings for my gen1 fazer1000 but dont know how to do this appart from guess, maby heat up heat gun then press cut out mesh into it to stick to plastic maby???
Hello mate. I want to paint my tank as you have here but will be adding a decal. Am I right in thinking that I follow the process you have shown here, then let it cure before sanding it, apply decal, clearcoat over the top (X2 or 3), and cure? Job done.
I really appreciate this video you made it will help me a hole lot when I start painting my bike but I'm just doing a solid black paint job thanks for the info
Hi Kel, that Plastex I pretty impressive. I know plastics have changed quite a bit over the last few decades. I see what you are working on is fairly new. Have you used Plastex for on any old fairings from the 80s? I have a fairing from an 85 Honda Elite scooter & wondered if plastex would bond to that plastic?
Would it be better / easier to join pieces after prepping with normal CA glue just to hold the position instead of tape, and then do the rest of the glue filler stuff?
"loud pipes save lives" doesn't mean they save lives 100% of the time. Absence of evidence does not mean evidence of absence. Just because loud pipes didn't save you doesn't mean they won't save others. I know this is 4 years old, but the logic in this video is abhorrent. insulating cars does reduce the noise but all it takes is having the window down. blipping can be a waste of time, but i think the argument is more so about the passive noise. or at least it can be about that. Fair enough on using the horn though, good advice. "it won't because it didn't" is fallacious logic. you should use best practices anyway, but louder pipes can only increase good outcomes really. At some point, at some time it'll have a good effect. how often that is? no idea. is it worth it? beats me but there's no real way to say it's never been useful and never will be useful.
I have done a great deal of automotive painting but always on the metal parts of classic British & German cars of the 50's & 60's with no plastic parts. I was always under the impression that a special paint or additives to promote flexibility were needed when painting on plastic parts to avoid cracking. Is this not true? I did not hear you mention anything about this so I am assuming that I heard wrong in the past. Can you confirm this? Wonderful video. Thank you!
Hey PJ, If you are painting plastic that is fixed on all sides like motorcycle fairings it is not neccessary to add anything. On some large front bumpers with a lot of movement it is a good idea. However it is as simple as spraying a flex agent on the panel before you paint it. Modern acrylic paints are very flexible. Paint a peice of plastic and bend it, you will see for yourself. I am painting a Lotus 7 right now, all aluminium.
@@howtowithkel3352 : Thanks, Kel. In this case, one of the parts I am painting does get quite a bit of flex as it is the front hood of a "side by side' ATV (or UTV actually) that I use on my ranch. The unit itself has simply seen too much sunlight and although I have tried to get deep enough into the plastic to try and resurrect a uniform color to buff and call it call it good, it's just not going to look right in the end. So, I have decided to paint it. I just need to do my best to prevent it from cracking or failing in other ways. I am used to doing very detailed prep and don't mind spending the time to do so as it is my nature. I just need to give it my best attempt using the proper materials so this is where I am a bit out of my element. I very much appreciate your advice!
