Prismatic Powders is the world's largest manufacturer of custom powder coating, offering over 6,500 powder coat colors! We offer a wide variety of powder coat collections ranging from specialty powders such as Color-Shifting and Illusions (dormant pigment powders) to OEM Powersports and well known wheel manufacturers, as well as numerous hand-curated Designer collections. We offer color matching. We also have an extension Knowledge Base with tons of tech tips and product specific tips.
You can buy powder in quantities as small as one pound. We offer extremely low overnight shipping rates, and we ship to over 85 countries.
That is a good idea and we can do a video on that. We would suggest just slapping a label on your bag of powder with the date you received it, to keep track of things. Spray-ability can get finicky with old powder and a potential for other problems in the finish. It will vary by the powder. You're likely to experience more visible issues with textures.
Hi there, we r facing problem of Faraday cage effect on the inside edges where two plates are joint. Powder is not able to stick to the edge. Can you suggest any Nozzle for that?
a slot type nozzle along with adapting the powder flow and voltage for that specific area. Depending on how visible the spot is and your familiarity with the powder you are spraying you could shoot those areas hot...but that would be a last resort if all else fails. We don't typically recommend shooting hot because you can't "undo to it"
If it's cast aluminum that you are getting the bubbles on, then yes it is likely that your part is gassing out through the coating and outgassing will take care of that problem.
If you are really at a loss as to which one to choose, I would reach out to our customer service department. However, many times ordering a few that look close works just fine on zeroing in the color.
That is Genius! I’ve talked about this with my son in law, and we have been mulling over how to hit screws, blots nuts & washers with powder to complete the look of some of these little projects. So can this product or one of similar design be used for the powder too? As opposed to running a rod through nuts (for example) to fully cover them? I. Thinking that this would also have to have a ground attached to it as well as be completely able to be assembled & disassembled (both ends removable) and possibly a grounding system (tabs on the ends) with a copper (or aluminum) wire (or system) to continue the ground of the gun & system while applying the powder.
@@jeffreyharbin5211 Yes. We have to clean the parts first. We have been trying different materials to do so. But, I must have written it wrong . But by connecting a ground wire to this, would you be able to use a process and a tool (canister) similar to this for the powder too. I. Get, that you would not be able to “Shake” it . Because that would then cause the powder to fall off too. The electricity does NOT need to be continuous after it has been sprayed on to the pieces that have been sprayed. I’m referring to small pieces specifically here because of their inherent difficulty in coverage. Is this making sense to you?
@scotthooper4170 yes I understand now, theoretically yes you could however I'm not sure what the benefits would be considering you wouldn't be able to move the parts around to get full coverage, and if you did the powder would shake off so I only see this being useful for sandblasting but if I'm missing something here please further explain because although I'm not sure how you would, but if you could rig this device for spraying powder I think that would be really neat
it 100% would make it easier to sandblast though, I hate holding little nuts and washers in my fingers especially since those cabinet gloves make your fingers bigger than they really are ahah)
@@jeffreyharbin5211 Ahhhh. Okay then. I’ve been wanting to do the kids (grandkids) bikes (closest thing you can call them, no peddles) #7 on the way in August. And these things get trashed out here! They fade fast. And it gives me something to do since I’m retired. I naturally figured I could move up to the powered toys from there. The other obvious is degreasing. Which is “Arch Enemy #1. When doing powder coating.
We don't use Wagner systems, so unfortunately I can't offer you any worthwhile advice other than to get ahold of your rep or customer service at Wagner. A standard setting could be useful when getting started but typically you'll be changing the settings based upon the powder you happen to be spraying. If the mil thickness is building too slowly you could start by addressing your voltage settings.
could it also be that the chrome reflects more heat than the black?so maybe it was just a little cooler than the piece beside it which was essentially a black body? are we sure it's the settings on the infared thermometer?
Yes, adjusting the emissivity settings on the IR thermometer was this issue in this experiment. Since we have two identical parts, in the same oven at the same temp, and one part that serves as the black body, but two different results it illustrates how the part metal temperatures can indeed be identical but the readings from the surface can be different. This illustrates the need to make adjustments for accurate readings.
@PrismaticPowders but how can we be 100% sure that the two parts are identical temps - even though they're in the same oven at the same temp, one part is a black body so it will absorb more heat anyways, and more heat absorbed = hotter temperatures for that black body part so if this was the case the IR thermometer may actually be giving accurate readings already and does not to be adjusted I'm sorry if this seems condescending I am honestly just trying to understand EVERYTHING powder coated related and you guys are the experts and so I figured I would run that theory by you guys and see what you think, is there a possibility what I said could be true? Would the black body part be hotter since it absorbs more heat? I only ask because when I set my oven at 375°F some parts come out at 375° whereas others come out around 450° so that almost leads me to believe that some metals get hotter and absorb more heat than others (upwards of 100% sometimes when I pull 450° parts out of a 375° oven) there is so much science involved in this industry I love it! Please let me know what you think of my thoughts and correct me where needed, trying to get a better understanding, thank you! It makes us customers very very happy when you take the time to respond to us on here 🙂
@PrismaticPowders I know the emissivity factor does indeed play a role in the accuracy of the readings but in this case since you compared chrome to black could both factors (IR thermometer needs adjustment as well as the black part absorbs more heat and so it's quite simply just a little hotter than the chrome piece) potentially be affecting the end result? In other words, could it be that the IR thermometer does need adjusting but also that the black body should absorb more heat than the chrome piece and potentially be a couple degrees hotter than the chrome piece due to this increased heat absorbtion? (and not just a couple degrees off due to the IR thermometer solely) I'm currently unemployed and very interested, sorry in advance 😅 I hope this makes sense, cheers 🍻
when you compared the two illusion blueberry trucks side by side and said that topcoat for the one on the right was applied too thin, in these circumstances can you just add another coat that's a little heavier to bring the blue back out to look like the one on the left?
The are about as identical as can be, but I think what you may be seeing is the larger highlights on the parts with more surface area. That coil doesn't allow for much of a reflection so it makes it seem darker.
Thank you for the video. Amazing company. I don't think I've ever seen such a developed web site for investigating products and going in depth on the option's potential. I'm pretty excited to be receiving a couple swatches tomorrow, which should help in choosing a color for my mountain bike build up by the company, Retrotec, which uses Prismatic Powders to color their frames.
Poor ground is a very common issue. The new fab shop I'm working at had me working in powder coating and their setup uses racks that are just CAKED. Sometimes, the powder will not stick, and I'm being told it's my technique.
You're right, cleaning racks, grinding off the old powder should be a routine to help get a ground. Even if you have an earth ground to the rack, the racking surface must be free of insulators.
Very timely (Actually a little late) this video fell into my inbox. I had this problem and did the exact opposite, not knowing what was causing it. As you note, you can't power through it. I'll do better next time because of this video.
I need a help if you could please advise me The oven broke down at 160 degree The powder on the materials has the color but it is easy to get scratched Now the oven is fixed What do i do? 1) Scratch the powder and recoat the object and use the oven again 2) just turn on the oven and before it reaches 200 degrees i enter those objects for 12 min as the powder manufacturers say ? What would happen if i do this?
Do you need to prep matte wheels to change the color? Since matte has a rough surface already, should I sand blast? Or can I just powder coat a clear/new color on top of it?
Ideally you want to start with bare metal that has a blast profile, but you can abrade the old powder with red scotch brite, discharge and put new powder on top....if need be.
Man im so frustrated with Black Chrome III, I am brand new to Powder Coating and just have a Cheap Harbour Freight gun and cheap walmart toaster oven..I had no problem with Orange, Gloss Black and Matt Black but I just can get the Black Chrome to look good :(
Reach out to our technical support team. They will get you pointed in the right direction for a successful outcome. As you are experiencing not all powders spray the same, and there are some nuances that are learned from experience. Our tech support team will give you a short cut. technicalsupport@prismaticpowders.com
The best results are found with Acrylic Clear APS 11224 because of its flowout characteristics. All clears have an affect on Chromes, but Acrylic Clear will have the least affect
Yes, this is a common issue with all clears, essentially any time you have a clear layer, you will have some refraction due to how that layer flows out. We have found that Acrylic Clear yields a nicer result with less refraction.
Thanks for the info it was very informative. I bought the Eastwood PCS-150 Powder Coating System | Innovative Single Voltage what is your opinion on this product? Please advise
With no personal experience with the unit I don't have enough information to offer any specific information to give regarding that specific setup, however there are a few pitfalls with single voltage guns. For example, one potential problem is that some powders like metallics will spray better with some fine tuning of the voltage.
I love Prismatic Powder 🔥 I use on my Eastvanchopcycle ebike builds and to take care with automotive cleaners , car wash soap and finishing spray for protection. You can also polish to get rid of most scratches and bring back to new look. Good luck everyone if you need any tips just hit me up 💯👍
Your vids are really good. Ive opened a powder coating company with an 8m long oven. I dont know much and ive faced this issue you addressed in this video. Thank you for your helpful video
It really depends on the metallic used. There are some that would require it and some that don't. We make notes in the product descriptions for the colors that need a clear. )
It would also depend on the environment that its in. If it's in an environment that is conducive to oxidation from moisture and other chemicals it could happen over a matter of weeks or months.
We run a metal wire through a large silicone plug from our plug kit for travel mugs, making sure the wire stays in contact with the cup itself. The part number on that plug kit is SE-262, then we used high temp tape to mask off any other areas where powder could creep in.
Welcome to the prismatic powders comedy hour! 🎤 Can you guys make a video about epoxy primers? I can barely get powder to stick to parts I coated with Epoxy primer powder
I bought some polish from eastwood. In reading the fine print on the bottle (nothing mentioned on the website) it stated that it wasn't designed for transparent, candy colors etc. I would think that any polish/ wax could work on any type of powder coat.
I'm glad you caught that, and read the directions. While I can't speak to that specific product, it "may" be how polishes work via micro-abrasives. These micro-abrasives, could diminish the transparent nature of the topcoat. All those tiny scuffs might be alright for a solid tone, but could cloud a transparent topcoat.
I had a question as to what causes the bubbles that are lighter in color on the finish. As to my understanding it was maybe some overspray? And how do I prevent overspray?
Tiny bubbles in the finish could be the result of a few things, possibly contamination in the powder or on the substrate. If it was overspray, it will definitely have a fine texture to it. Depending on your situation and what your goals were with the project. Masking and or wiping the surfaces completely are necessary to prevent or remove unwanted powder from a surface. Hope that helps
The best practice is to do it before, but that doesn't mean you cant do it after. The reason for this is that the process of outgassing can also bring oils to the surface which you'll need to remove before coating. It just makes for a simpler process.
