Would not just fitting original springs be easier. I’m just curious as to why you choose this option as it looks quite involved. What with making the spaces. I actually need to lower mine a little with original springs. I plan to just cut a coil off them.
@simonmenzies3142 for me, these were the springs I had at the time... Plus, they ride better that stock and get the car to a good ride height -once you have the right spacers. Years on and I'm still happy with them. Compliant for the street, and decent on the track.
I made the same upgrade, but it seems that the brake pump is not enough now, the pedal is long, almost to the end, after pumping the pedal it goes up and feels better, it is not from the bleeding process, I already do it and i have done it again, what could it be?
I had the same problem... Mine's still not where I want it, but close. I had a helper pump hard 5 times before releasing the bleed screw. Went around several times and it helped a lot. I think the master being so low just makes it hard to get all of the air out.
I haven't done it yet. I have all the stuff but haven't made the time. It's winter now, so time to do it, and I'm doing this next... Could be on it in December; I'll definitely do a vid
Thanks for the tip on the abs calipers. I’ve been scouting the junk yard since I saw your video a while back and finally scored the right calipers. I have the single line system as I have an early 68 1600. Right now I’m running 320i fronts and rears (250mm drums) with a brake master from the 320i. So essentially 320i brake system tip to toe. It works well but I scored a set of 320i hubs on the cheap and I came across the calipers today so I might swap it for fun at some point. The 320i fronts are waaay bigger than the stock 1600 calipers already but if some is good more is better. Thanks again for the tip!
I’m doing this same deal. Firstly your vid’s are the most helpful because it’s about the care of these cars and not repurposing for muscle and mods. I’m original owner (dad bought in Germany). We did rebuilds x2. I got a question about something simple. You are very conservative with your lift points. Why do you place wood rails along the lift points rather than place the jack stands in the jack lift points? I have a very stiff 911 and I understand that it displaces the alternate stands and shifts and scares the s*** out of me. Thanks
I use the blocks because I'm unsure of the condition of the steel. Want to make sure that I get a good mount and not damage the rails. Especially since they could be compromised from rust. My jack points look a little rough... Someday I'll get it all restored. Be safe!
Good stuff! I did the same to my ‘73; I did the headlights too, and accidentally bought a light with a yellow low beam and white high beam. I’m keeping it for now, though. I also added a stealth led strip as a 3rd brake light. I worry about visibility, even with the LED lights. Thanks for posting!
I really admire this! My intake manifold has the rod towers built it from a Mikuni set up I was using. I’m going to Weber 40’s which work with the build. I like the aft support ROM that you designed and rod from the accelerator is rock solid. I would like to see how that feels in the foot. My last set up was a little sloppy. The cable system was a nightmare for me. Anyways, strong work!
The rod linkage is really nice. Has a really direct feel.. Mine is mostly returned by the pedal spring, really snappy - I'd recommend it over cables for sure.
I definitely get some rubbing on hard turns, especially when a driveway is in the mix. I don't race or anything, so it's worth the trade for the stance.
Thanks for the video. My 73 turn signal indicator tells you when you have a failed bulb by blinking twice then going dark. Does the indicator work after the conversion, and does it tell you when s bulb is out?
This is interesting! Everything works fine, but ever since I put the electronic blinker in I get what I thought was phantom blinks (2 of them) on the indicator. This was even with the regular bulbs... I guess this is actually that feature telling that something is wrong. Cool to know. Maybe worth an FAQ post to see if that can be resolved. Like I say, everything is working great, proper blink cadence, but I do get those two extra blinks on the indicator; I thought it was just a glitch.
Thank you for the video. Was waiting patiently for a new video from , could you post a video of the wires of that back taillight you used for demonstration . When I purchased my car the owner unplugged the original tail lights and replaced all with some cheap leds and I’m trying to figure out what wire goes to what
What were you banging out of the hub with the hammer? Honestly this is very frustrating that you are not being helpful in anyway. So I’m not sure if this is a video intended to help others like me looking for help as we are learning. Or just to show off🤷🏻♂️
On the floor I was hammering out the bearing races - lots more info here: www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/brakes/vented-brakes-upgrade-r10/
Info on parts used in the video and description would make this helpful. And how someone can achieve the same result if they don’t have a cnc. Otherwise not much point sadly. This could have been a really great video if you’d don’t this and helped others
I explain in the video that the CNC machining and bushings aren't necessary - it's a nice to have to get the whole pad on the rotor, otherwise you have 1-2mm overhang, but lots of people run this way. To space the caliper properly you can simply use some washers. I explain all of the parts in this other video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GaIW2meFZII.html
@@spuriouspseudo thabks I’m watching more of your videos now and seeing they are actually really useful and enjoyable. Iv subscribed and hoping to follow these steps myself soon. Iv just sent my old Calipers off for a full refurb and bought two new (new to me that I’ll refurb) brake servos. (Two as in right hand drive) I’ll be looking to possibly go boosterless. Was there a big difference after you lost the servo? Thanks
@simonmenzies3142 cool beans. I try to show the important stuff... I do these as more of a blog of my experience, not so much a how-to. Glad you're enjoying them.
@@spuriouspseudo I get it more now that you do it as a blog following along with what you are doing. Than a guide… but… please add as much detail they are actually more helpful than you may realise to us novices! Lol How have you found the brakes for feel, effort needed etc now you have gone boosterless? I may just choose to go boosterless myself. It will certainly clean up the engine bay!
@@simonmenzies3142 I love the feel of boosterless. It's definitely more effort, and I was worried what it would feel like, which is why I wend for such a long bore. But it's got great feel. I can lock up R888s with regular pads and it's not an excessive amount of effort. No regrets, like you say the engine bay gets way cleaner.
New input: we are using the Booster and the mastercylinder from a BMW E90 and a reservoir from an E60. That system nearly fits p&p in the 02. Just need an Adapter for the backpresurevalve for the rear drums and a little adjustment with the linkage.
Great video, watched it so many times as I'm in the middle of doing this on mine. But what tool did you use to remove the shifter linkage rod that goes into the tranny? Almost impossible to get something in there with enough room to hammer
I didn't take the shaft that goes inside of the Trans out. Just that linkage that you see me get in place with the chisel near the end. To do it again I would for sure pull the drive shaft.
I'm pretty sure I pushed it straight up with a punch... once the retaining collar is off. Might need a good soak in some penetrant. If i recall, there are two pins on the coupler, one is horizontal and one is vertical, this was a few years back, though.
Your videos have been super helpful as I dig into my new to me 2002. This one in particular as mine crumble as you look at them. Appreciate all you do. Thanks for the product info.
I'm pretty sure they are standard units for the mechanical and hydraulic clutch. I need to change the pedal geometry a bit on the brake, otherwise it's still working great.
