I definitely get some rubbing on hard turns, especially when a driveway is in the mix. I don't race or anything, so it's worth the trade for the stance.
@@spuriouspseudo I noticed towards the end of your video you actually mentioned the Volvo 240. Ireland Engineering suggested this up grade to avoid the Tii struts that have the larger spindle $$$. Thanks
@@spuriouspseudo I noticed towards the end of your video you actually mentioned the Volvo 240. Ireland Engineering suggested this up grade to avoid the Tii struts that have the larger spindle $$$. Thanks
I made the same upgrade, but it seems that the brake pump is not enough now, the pedal is long, almost to the end, after pumping the pedal it goes up and feels better, it is not from the bleeding process, I already do it and i have done it again, what could it be?
I had the same problem... Mine's still not where I want it, but close. I had a helper pump hard 5 times before releasing the bleed screw. Went around several times and it helped a lot. I think the master being so low just makes it hard to get all of the air out.
What were you banging out of the hub with the hammer? Honestly this is very frustrating that you are not being helpful in anyway. So I’m not sure if this is a video intended to help others like me looking for help as we are learning. Or just to show off🤷🏻♂️
On the floor I was hammering out the bearing races - lots more info here: www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/brakes/vented-brakes-upgrade-r10/
Info on parts used in the video and description would make this helpful. And how someone can achieve the same result if they don’t have a cnc. Otherwise not much point sadly. This could have been a really great video if you’d don’t this and helped others
I explain in the video that the CNC machining and bushings aren't necessary - it's a nice to have to get the whole pad on the rotor, otherwise you have 1-2mm overhang, but lots of people run this way. To space the caliper properly you can simply use some washers. I explain all of the parts in this other video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GaIW2meFZII.html
@@spuriouspseudo thabks I’m watching more of your videos now and seeing they are actually really useful and enjoyable. Iv subscribed and hoping to follow these steps myself soon. Iv just sent my old Calipers off for a full refurb and bought two new (new to me that I’ll refurb) brake servos. (Two as in right hand drive) I’ll be looking to possibly go boosterless. Was there a big difference after you lost the servo? Thanks
@simonmenzies3142 cool beans. I try to show the important stuff... I do these as more of a blog of my experience, not so much a how-to. Glad you're enjoying them.
@@spuriouspseudo I get it more now that you do it as a blog following along with what you are doing. Than a guide… but… please add as much detail they are actually more helpful than you may realise to us novices! Lol How have you found the brakes for feel, effort needed etc now you have gone boosterless? I may just choose to go boosterless myself. It will certainly clean up the engine bay!
@@simonmenzies3142 I love the feel of boosterless. It's definitely more effort, and I was worried what it would feel like, which is why I wend for such a long bore. But it's got great feel. I can lock up R888s with regular pads and it's not an excessive amount of effort. No regrets, like you say the engine bay gets way cleaner.
