I noticed you went with the 110V US version - seeing as you are in Australia I guess you must also be using a step-down transformer? Any reason why you didn't go for the 220V EU version or would that also require a transformer? Thanks for the comprehensive review!
Good video with straightforward information to set up a PS3 Syscon device on an RPI Pico. Thank you, I was able to double-check my work with this and it was greatly appreciated.
This video is incredibly professional!!! Now i am sure to buy some tantalums. Feel so proud to troubleshoot a problem with a clear step by step like that.
@@Slot1Gamer because I accidentally scratched a little the cpu and broke a capacitor (silver ones) and the ps3 still working fine at 1080i, but 1080p is not stable..so my question is.. is it because the cpu or the electrolytic capacitor I broke down??
Nice! Where can i get a stand which holds the air blower vertically? (which you used at "practical test" chapter, 5:52). I suppose is not included with the station. Or is it?
The channel "Hey Birt!" made a fantastic video with science paper sources, why Bromide is NOT the cause of the yellowing, why the stuff u used may be a bit too aggressive as it has a high pH value because of the sodium carbonate that coud damage the plastic (maybe would need some neutralizer to a more sane pH level.) etc. Also how UV protective products can slow down the yellowing effect as UVA and heat accelerate the yellowing (via oxygen in the air) while UVB bleaches the plastic (sunbleaching). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YPl356YKcVs.html
Your review definitely made a inpact on my decision. Will be keen to learn SMD soldering to expand my repair work, also good for heat shrink and beats a lighter for sure! Glad theres other aussies making videos of budget equity like this. Thankyou!
If you need it to be instant, try trimming the audio down if you haven’t done so And try pre-powering the module and using a PNP transistor as a switch to pull the trigger pin low on power up. The delay might be the microcontroller booting, so using a transistor and pre-powering may improve timing.
You know I actually have a hole melted in the back of my controller I thought a cigarette cherry got near it but it might have been a compositor over heating I figured id need a new controller what happened to the good old days when it didn't matter what you did to them they lasted, I've gone through 4 xbox1 controllers since I've had the 1 and it to has issues I had two issues the battery supply is shorted and the USB charging port won't work unless I'm pressing in and the batteries will be in the controller but suddenly lose power not to mention controllers are not cheap even though they are made cheap
This is a technical marvel, runs better than the 3DO port. And that’s saying something considering the 3DO is more powerful than the Nintendo 64 by a large margin.
I think it would be better to modify the PS2PIN on the PCB to correspond to the PS2 controller plug, and it can be soldered directly without using jumpers.
It can work but you’d need to modify the housing to provide bigger tolerances. The pins move a fair bit so hard mounting them will break the joint over time.
repsu is ideal ofc. i dont like the ribbon connector they've used on the gem, nobody has mentioned this. the connector on the n64 digital was brittle, the connector on the gem is so weak the weight of the flex can unlatch the ribbon connector and unplug itself, you need to push in the ribbon when its unlatched them squish the latch down for it to feel snug.
If i unlocked 1.4 my hard drive by accident in Hexen (the console is already soft modded) will this method allow me to boot to Hexen disc so i can relock it? Thanks!
Not directly When you unlocked the drive there is a chance it saved the key as a txt file to the HDD. You can mount the HDD on a pc using FatXplorer and recover the key and lock it again hopefully There is also a tool built into fatXplorer that can recover the key easily from WD Xbox drives
@@Slot1Gamer I have attempted the PC route. FatXplorer sees the drive, but tells me it cant mount it, likely because the password is wrong, and it wont mount it at all.
Is it a WD drive? If so try the key recovery, but if you unlocked the drive it wouldn’t have a key. Did you perhaps null the eeprom on the console itself
@@Slot1Gamer The drive is a Seagate ST310014ACE. I was able to back up the eeprom for sure, but its on the drive. The HDD key was nulled to all 1’s using the Extras disc. Im about 99% sure i did not null the eeprom
Hmm tricky situation You can either rip or change the key from the eeprom in the console via hardware tools (if the HDD itself was set to all 1s) Or Install a cheap modchip and use that to fix the issue as you’ll be able to bypass the key check
Did you observe any transformer mains hum (audible) noise? I have heard that 220v AC toroidal transformers can hum audibly (and annoyingly) when operated at 240v AC (as found in AU/UK)
Yes there is hum but only noticeable under load in a quiet room. I now am running it on 220v @ 60hz wich made it louder haha. The transformer has a few taps, 0-15v (x1) (for logic) 0-8.5-23.5v (x2) (for heater(s)) I’m sure you could modify it to use a different type of supply
Has anyone tried putting car wax on the white plastic?? A lot of car wax is supposed ro have UV protectants, just wonder if that works to keep it from yellowing
Do WSAD or Arrow keys work? I'm trying to use them but no luck, however the mouse look is working. I just can't move? Also I can't escape from the game without shutting down my pc.
They should You might have an issue with “window focus” How windows handles what application has exclusive keyboard and or mouse input. I’d check you don’t have any overlay software running like frame counters or maybe OSD controls. Try alt enter on the game to make it full screen Escape or alt f4 should quit, if it’s not then I’d wager it’s a window focus issue. Sorry I can’t be much help
@HardcoreGR thank you. I found more codes and my original fat ps3 I bought in 08 has a bad rtx card. Sad but imma keep her for parts, who knows maybe someday I'll learn how to replace it
AMAZING WORK BROTHER, i need to say one thing, because you heat the Cell to much with Hot air, that could damage the bga, once i heat the cell processor on a working ps3 because it was working to much hot, i didnt know heating an good bga soldering could damage it, and it so it did, of course the damage to the bga doest show even after 3 months but actually after this 3 months, after some 6 months the ps3 i did reflow the cpu CEll started to show many many many graphical artefacts, many glitchs and started freezing as well
@@albertdavis1882 NOPE, go Get Some Study!!! Cell Processors CPUS where Deepely used to PRocess Graphic Tasks, if you dont believe because you have no knowledge on the subject go read the KIllzone 2 PDF of how they implemented various task of graphics, physics and many others on the SPES, as so did many other studios cause the CELL SPES where that fast and capable of such thing due to having 128 Registers of 128 bits per SPU, and 25.6 Gflops per SPU. Perhaps it doesnt matter, even in Normal PC on Windows OF COURSE the CPu process many sector of Geometry and many levels of SubGRaphics Tasks, the CPU brings the Textures to gpu and the CPU it the one who Process the GEOMETRY, what happened to the PS3 i had was exactly Non Sense Massive 3d Lines Being Generated from physics objets on gaming, and while on the SECRET or SECURE MENU of PS3 which you get when you turn PS3 off and then on but by holding the power until you heard the 2nd beep, in that screen that PS3 had Thousands of Pixels in Various Colours Intead of all Black and text on White, so what i told you first about Cell Processing Graphics its a fact but also i believe if any cpu has bga problems or conection problems it may show the same problems, also again, look for the PDF of Killzone 2 on Cell Processor on Google, very easy to find, also any basic research by OFicial information could get you educated on the Cell Processor capabilities, just look to the video of Mastering the Cell processor from UNCHARTED 2 Game Production on YOutube.
-Cell B.E SPUS can process graphics tasks with many levels of performance ahead of any cpu at its time due to Cell Spus having so many Registers as 128 per core and all 128bit, - THE SOURCE OF THIS CLAIM - IBM - THE CELL MAIN DESIGNER COMPANY.
PEOPLE AROUND THIS IS FIXABLE FOR SURE, IF YOU SCRATCH YOUR PS3 CELL, STILL THERES HOPE FOR IT TO BE FIXED, YOU WANNA KNOW WHAT IS ABSOLUTELY UNFIXABLE ONLY NOBIES DO THE PS3??? THE RUBBER MOD, THE RUBBER MOD ABSOLUTELY KILLS THE PLAYSTATAION 3 TO ITS CORE LITERALLY EXACTLY, BECAUSE IT DESTROY THE CORE SILICON OF CELL CPU BY CRACKING IN HALF!!!
I think a reverse to a blanket would not wear as much on it . A camping version as a blanket single person would be nice using a Jackery to run the power source. ❤
Any kind It depends on what you are working on. No clean Tacky gel flux is the most versatile The only places you can’t use it is in certain micro soldering applications, like iPhone ram replacements
i dropped it onto my desk from about a foot in the air and apparently thats enough to damage it yet, seeing people actively throw them at walls and still survive is infuriating me 😂
The early Famicom systems are a pain to retrobrite. You either get marveling, or it won’t brighten at all. I’ve tried all the different ways, and there is no way to get a consistent results.
i just stuck my dmg gameboy case in two large bottles of peroxide I got at the dollar general in a clear plastic container and left it in a bay window for 4 days. 2$ and looks brand new
I’ve honestly had success with an aquarium heater, 2 overhead UV lamps and believe it or not, 3% peroxide. Yes it took way longer, about 3 days, but my super NES looked new.
Yea that's what I do, sometimes takes a day or two but everything I've pulled looks brand new at the end of the process, no marbling. Aluminum turkey pans with the clear plastic lids, line the aluminum with UV LED strips and use the clear lids for your peroxide bath. Set it and forget it. You could literally forget it too and you won't over bleach it too, the 3 percent stuff isn't strong enough to ruin it especially since it loses effectiveness over time.
I think for the bezel not seeming to brighten, it could be because of the silk screening used to put the letters on. The company could have placed a protective "film" that sealed the top layer of plastic and the retrobright simply didn't dissolve the Bromide underneath the layer. When I do relettering for consoles, I usually use a letter tracing as close to the original letters. Spray them on with a hobby air paint sprayer, then a clear coat to protect them once dried.
Edit: As for you not being able to get hydrogen peroxide, it's due to EU (Also NZ and Aus) regulations because of its unpleasant and harmful side effects of prolonged use. They don't know you're using it for another reason. Sorry for the answer.
you can change the default boot to hdd or memory card or usb, with modbo5 usb is the easiest option. Files supplied by andrew Paul : mega.nz/file/WgAFAayS#ePWFejNoHcR86W4fBJcf_2qFAbq26B3h-gTdrAL8ebw
