Dont Forget to Like and Subscribe UK based 3D printing & Tech Review channel and content sharing knowledge and advice on my FDM & Resin Printers, all advice and knowledge sharing is my own opinion and not always factually correct but I always try my best to provide the best advice
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I currently own the following Creality Mage Pro 12k Resin Creality K1 Elegoo Saturn Ultra 12k Elegoo Phecda 20w laser Elegoo Neptune 4 Anycubic Kobra Pro BambuLab X1 Carbon Amcer 6W Laser
well after 2 hours of trying everything, even a ethernet cable, still can get it to work, Guess i got another paper weight, cant connect with anyone either.
Nice instruction use video! I bought one last Saturday 6 July 2024. I returned it today, July 8, because the included instruction to set up the machine was a kind of Ikea pictures manual, imo totally unusable and the machine completely crashed after several attempts. The retailer will do their best to get the device working and deliver the machine to my home adress in working condition. What I miss outside of this beautiful video is an installation video (first use). That would be the icing on the cake!
Hi 3DPUK, I've not long found you (sorry 😳), it's great seeing UK channels, thank you for taking the time to make these... If you're ever up in North Wales and fancy a brew, let me know, I'll pop the kettle on...😊😊 Take care... Andy...
@rafaelalarcon8299 hi connect to laser gbrl first that makes the connection, ensire to download the correct software for the connection I believe ch340 driver. Once this is established I use lightburn u need to setup as a manual setup using GBRl etc
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL Where in Halot Box 4.6 do you find that? I have looked everywhere for printer management screen. It was there in earlier versions but gone now. I need to be able to enter the IP of my printer somewhere.
I thought i could just push stop and go to the regular load filament screen and then continue the print where it was last at but it seems like the printer has zero awareness of where it is or where it was which is unfortunate because i thought 3d printers were more advanced than this. I mean if it ran mach 3 you could at least go to the g code it was previously at and start from there and thats like 30 years old software. the only thing the printer knows is where the edge of the table it and if the filament ran out which really makes it feel more like a toy than an actual piece serious equipment. It kind of like the difference between a hot air balloon and a Apache helicopter; one is refined piece of advanced technology and the other is a wicker basket tied to a balloon that is always in a state of crashing
Is this firmware still being supported ??? when I went to get the bed level Stl, it says its no longer available... Google drive says: NO preview available. File is in owner's trash.... ???
After about 16 days straight of printing on the K1C, the X rods needed lubrication after printing some ASA with the chamber sealed, the lubricant for that bearing dried up and the Axis started chattering as it was moving. I put grease on the rail. Problem want away
Hi, I printed the boat and then did the update. I use the slicer they provide and the prints I try to print get about a quarter inch and the head runs into it. It’s like the Z step isn’t moving high enough with each layer. Is that something wrong in the slicer?
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL so when i do the calibration and tests and its actually worse, gaps, but when i put back to the default number 420 it prints fine, not perfect but a 7/10 print.... calibrated with hot end and without its like 2/10
Perhapps if youd were to connected the flexible tinned aluminium wire to the rqed places than you might hav a woking chip shop cabable of cooking fishkies.
Thanks for the review, especially the honesty that it wasn't perfect for you. I use this to improve the product. Side notes: 1. The X cable wire length between the controller and first limit is setup so that it matches up with the module cable and enters the gantry through the same notch. I'll update the instructions to make that a bit more clear. 2. The number of included cable clips is so that some can be used along the inside of the gantry. Your use zip ties also works too of course. 3. Next product update will have sleeved cables and have epoxy to keep the wiring intact at each connector. 4. For those that need them, longer screws for the right X limit (the one at the flame sensor) are also included. A small number of folks received machines with screws which were shorter than the machines I received, so longer versions were added to the kit just in case Thanks again!
Hi, I have the hotend issue and have tried your solution with no change in my results. I have noticed that the blue LED is off until I touch the hotend (cover off) then the blue LED lights up. Does this suggest an earth issue in the wiring? Thanks
Hi, tried to disconnect and reconnect everything in there and still have the same error. Even tried to heat up the hotend with a hair dryer to try and cheat the system but no good. What do I need to get this going again do you think? A whole new hotend unit, with board and cover etc?
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL hi again, I have been looking for a full replacement of the print head including the motherboard - I’m having trouble finding it. Do you know if this part exists by any chance? Anycubic Kobra MAX COMPLETE Print Head! strain gauge, fans, light, and hotend!
Would you say this unit could be possibly installed in a living space with the enclosure and air extraction being pushed ouside (by a window). Im mainly wondering about the fumes as my workshop is not a garage its a basement room. Thanks for the review!
Hey thanks for watching. An enclosure and extraction would be perfect. As long as exhumed outside then this is perfect. Don't forget too like and subscribe 😉
I got one trhis week... The Hot-end registered -14degrees. That was caused by the flex cable not being properly installed in the print carriage. Sorted in moments. Only 2 of the 3 wires for the Filament sensors were actually in the plug. I'm fixing that today. Shitty assembly quality. I effing HATE using uSD cards on machinery that has room for proper cards, so I'm going to mount a uSD to SD adapter to the printer with some double-sided tape. I do that with all my printers...
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL Got the plug sorted. They HAD crimped it, but the crimp on the bare wires was not good enough, and the crimp on the insulation was almost open. This is typical of the hurry up and ship it to the clueless forreignes crap they always do. I used to pull on the wire after crimping it into the pin, before inserting it into the plastic plug back when I assembled more electronics at home. It takes only a moment... I REALLY can't reccommend this printer to newcomers in the hobby.
Hello and thanks for sharing your settings. My question is, would these settings work for cura 5.7? Just got into 3d printing and I was just using default settings. I had no idea on the infinite possibilities on settings lol. but I would like to start using this big machine for model printing or bases for models. I tried to follow a vid and what takes 2-4 hours on default turns into 10 days?! lol anyways appreciate any feedback.
So I found the noise reduced a little nothing to noticeable but none the less a reduction... pla I would suggestleaving the front open a little for air flow. But that's only if it's a long print say over 2hrs or 3 Thanks for watching Don't forget to like and subscribe 😉
Im fucked up. I did this on my kobra plus and now my screen is stuck in the logo . If anybody has the original files to recover it please let me know. If you have a kobra plus dont even think on make this update because you ended up with a useless printer.
Hey ,sorry to hear this did u add the micro sd card to bottom of screen not main board.??? Also make sire to unpack the files correctly see link in description for process to follow. Hope it works out with the retry, failing that goto anycubic github and they have OG firmware
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL I did it exactly the way it says on the guide on the description but for some reason it messed up the screen. I tried to flash the screen firmware on the Kobra Max firmware zip file because there's no screen firmware in the firmware zip file for this 3d printer. I dont know how to get the right firmware to flash it from the github page. I don't know what else I can do.
So I don't know if anyone can help me answer this, I have a Kobra Max and I am getting a crazy amount of Stringing. I have changed the retraction form 0-7.0mm and nothing got better. I used a temp tower and each one looked terrible. I don't know what to do, all I find is snark from ppl on Discord. Any assistance would be appreciated. Help please.
Hey sorry that the community isn't supporting you, have you found this to.be on different types of filament ?? Or is this with 1 in particular, I sometimes find stringing can also be to do with wet filament, if it's not that and you can confirm it's been dried then, it could also be to do with speed of printing I always try around 50mm/s - 4 retraction ..
Yes make sure they are loose for first part then tighten when in place. Thanks for watching 👀 don't forget to like and subscribe ... maybe check your firmware is current also ?
@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL thanks for the reply you earned your self a like and a sub. yeah so i updated the firmware and everything but i allready ruined 3 feps couse the prints only finnish 50% then gets stuck on build plate. people said this might be cause of leveling. and i tried everything i could possibly think of to level the build plate O.o and well same result. So i was shocked to see you you just pressed the button then tightened the screws and it worked for you. i been doing it like creality does by holding the build plate down and such but no luck. guess ill try you way see if that changes things.
