Welding, fabrication, race cars, and more! Watch as interesting welding and fabrication projects are tackled, I show the intricacies of my MKIV Supra drag car build, helpful tech tips are covered to assist with your projects, and I showcase both successes and failures for all of us to learn from. I've spent my life learning about race cars and this niche form of welding/fabrication and am excited to share this knowledge with you.
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You do some really nice hand layout! Have you thought about getting a cnc plasma table? I have the langmuir systems crossfire pro and it makes layout and cutting a little quicker sometimes. I really enjoy the content. God bless you and your family! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you very much. I've briefly browsed different 2D cutting tools (plasma, laser, and water), but don't have the space for any additional tooling like that right now. I'd love to get something like that in the future, however, along with a vertical mill, lathe, and a few other tools. I need somewhere to store cars/projects first to reclaim floor space in my existing workshop. Thank you for your continued viewership and support, and I wish the best for you and yours as well.
Looks great. Did you put a little quarter sized disk down in the center of the collector? Looks that way to make it easier to weld inside those tight spaces.
Thank you for your kind words. I did not, but rather patiently did a weld build up in the pit. It takes some time/patience, but that's how I've always done it, for better or worse.
Im curious how the math works with your jig vs. the jig i made. I'm making a 4 into 1 for a 1g talon. On the first attempt, with scrap material, rotating the tube 90 degrees did not give me a 90 degree cut angle. Due to the splay angle, I had to figure out the correct amount of rotation to get a 90 degree cut angle. Im curious why you dont run into that issue with your jig. Mine sets the tube verticle instead of horizontal. Im trying a 15 degree splay for my R&D. But yea, I'd like to figure out the equation that compensates for splay angle, and number of tubes. At least for a round style flange, not a t3/4/6. It's really funny that you put this video out as im doing this. Thank you for always being so helpful. Idk if you recognize my name, but I comment and like a lot of your videos. I've been studying your manifold videos off and on for a couple of years. Your red demon manifold build last year actually helped me decide on the jmf 4g63 flange. I was not super pleased with the vibrant one that I got initially. Even though I was planning on going to Morrison route and form the tubes instead of going with the oval to round transition in the flange. The jmf flange checked all the other boxes.
My cutting fixture typically requires an additional 5° added to the base rotation. Using your 4-1 collector as an example, I cut at 95° as opposed to 90° to achieve proper fitment. It takes some experimentation to figure out, but it's just the way it goes. I don't know of a formula to figure out this discrepancy and elected to practice cutting with PVC initially to figure it out. It's my pleasure, I'm happy to put the information out there. I do recall going back and forth with you in the comments before. I'm glad to hear that you went with a JMF flange - they're high quality pieces. Nice materials generally aren't cheap, but they're game changers to increase the quality of your end product.
As I'm building the header, I take two angles of attack for final welds. 1.) Try to run the primaries such that you leave a "pocket" to fit the torch into for the final welds. 2.) Be strategic as to when I'm adding each primary to the assembly. It isn't a perfect science and I still run into challenges occasionally. However, applying these two strategies help to eliminate the bulk of the issues.
If i heard you correctly, you weld on the inside as well, which was why you didn't do a from debuting. If so, how do you handle purging the "outside" when you do that?
You did hear correctly, and thank you for a good question. I don't do anything to purge the outside of the collector, but rather apply as little heat as possible while doing these internal welds. Remember, the goals are solely to smooth and fuse these internal seams, not get penetration. In this instance, I pulsed the internal welds with my machine set at 70A to avoid disturbing the coloration on the collector's exterior as much as possible. Some disturbance is inevitable, but you shouldn't be applying so much heat that the outside of the collector loses all of its color.
Very Informative video man I appreciate the skills and craftsmanship that goes into a project like this. Keep up the good work I love watching these videos!
Thank you for your kind words and support. I try to disseminate the information that would have benefitted me when I was beginning my career. The rest of this header build should be pretty cool if I can accomplish what I'm envisioning.
@@AlexLindner I'm a welder and fabricator too, but I'm really keen to learn more about tube fabrication like you. Hopefully, one day I can craft a header like that for my SC300. I'm excited to see the finished product!
I'll be showcasing the whole process with this build. Hopefully it will help provide some guidance once you're ready to build one for your car. I'm very excited to begin this build.
They're good fun to build, a nice change of pace from stainless and titanium work. I want to reach out to the gentleman who showcased that trick to thank him for making our lives easier.
Yeah to be honest I always made good money on them. If you get in to a groove you can knock these out pretty quick. I used to offer them with the infinity q45 tb. Was a little more cost effective. But this sort of projects I like.
You're absolutely right. Ariel at CPC in Australia is a good example of that with the fabricated RB (I believe) intake manifolds he offered before going down the billet rabbit hole. The money and work is there if you're willing to put forth the effort.
@AlexLindner in pure speculation do you think it would be even more beneficial to get a fully formed stack vs this method for full gains if budget wasn't a issue
I think so, but don't have any empirical data to support it. The Ross Machine Racing stacks I've used in the past certainly provide a nicer, more uniform transition than the router method. However, I wanted to showcase the router method as a cheap DIY option for someone building their own manifold that may not have a huge budget at their disposal.
@AlexLindner as a backyard, sloppy mechanics style fix I love it. I just have a belief of you're gonna do it do it. I have a problem settling with Performance parts
I agree, although I have enough irons in the fire where concessions have to be made at certain points. Otherwise I'd have Hypertune intake manifolds and inconel turbo headers on everything.
Ur a genius my guy I love how u and ur dad started and u finished in his honor I enjoy every minute I have with my old man cause u never know I respect u and ur talent ❤
Enjoy the time you have with him and create as many good memories as you can. When memories are all that remain, it's nice when they're able to make you smile and rejoice.
@AlexLindner I agree with I survived tramtic brain injury in 2015 being hit at 40mph it brought us closer cause almost died my self I feel blessed and don't take nothing for granted and u inspire me thank you and I'm sorry for ur loss 🙏
Often times the lowest lows reshape our mentalities for the better if we can make it through them. I'm glad to hear this has been the case for you, and thank you for your kind words and condolences. Some days are still difficult to work through, but that's the hand I've been dealt and have to play.
@AlexLindner thank u also I really enjoy watching u and ur lucky to have friends that can help u through it also griev is a process I been finding my way doing my car again cause of u and ur awesome personality and heart ❤️
I certainly am, and that isn't lost on me. Thank you for your kind words and I'm glad these videos have had a positive impact on you. Best of luck on your project and I hope you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor soon.
Thank you for your kind words and support. The stock GTE manifold is more capable than many people give it credit for. Factory GE manifolds wrap over the top of the engine which forced my hand to build something for this car.
Great video. Gave me some info I needed to repair this old C2 Motorsport VR6 manifold I've had for years (the mounting flange had been ground down to where it was 1/2" thick on one end and 1/4" on the other). At some point, can you do a video or short or IG reel about how to weld in between the runners on a fabricated manifold? I shelved a project a while back because I couldn't figure it out. BTW the runners are a LOT closer together than on a 2JZ
I'm glad you were able to take something from the video. That's quite a thickness discrepancy on the manifold you're repairing but most things can be repaired with enough work. Send me an email with the question(s) you have and I'll do my best to answer them. Alex@bpautosports.net
Man what a Frankenstein job on the manifold! You really made it work. Very impressive fabrication skills, and I'm really glad you brought up the point of it being, "cheaper" but still needing all of the years of skills and tools accumulated in order to properly make something out of nothing. Great job and excited to see the project progress.
Thank you for your kind words. Sometimes it's fun to work with what you have rather than buying something new. I absolutely wouldn't have been able to build this manifold if it wasn't for the experience and tools at my disposal, and it was important to me to disclose that. However, I hope this video serves as inspiration to someone showing what's possible with a bit of effort and, realistically, a fairly simple tool set.
Ever since I saw the old videos of Scotts TT SC300 along with the Walser Supra back in the day I've always wanted a 2JZ SC. Cant wait to see it all cleaned up. I see the headlights are pretty faded. Any chance of upgrading them to something like ClearaCorners headlight assemblies?
They're very cool cars and often overlooked still. I need to figure something out in regards to the headlights whether that be disassembling and attempting to restore them or upgrading them as you suggested. I'll cross that bridge once it's time to make it pretty.
Glad you got the big box! That's always been my struggle between the elite vs Link ECU, is the I/O. Link just has what you need for 6cyl cars if you start doing dbw, flex, and extra pressure and temperatures
I haven't had the opportunity to play with a Link, although I know many people run them successfully in drift cars. I'm still learning about the R5 but I like what I've read thus far. Hopefully that translates in the realm of practicality.
Haltech's NSP software seems much more user friendly and intuitive. ProEFI has powered the car for the entire time it's been running and through the success I've had with it thus far, so I can't speak ill of it. However, the R5 gets me the few features I was lacking and will be a more seamless integration with the new dash. It seems like a win/win.
I used to run proefi for a few years. Was decent , but flashing and merging files gets old, dated software, poor closed loop o2 control ect... Switched to a fuletech for a few months and that wasn't for me ,pulse width barf, so went to an elite 2500. Liked that so much I just switched to a nexus r3. The nsp software is awesome. Currently swapping 2 more cars to nexus ecus and taking out the holley stuff, so will have all 3 on haltech nexus stuff. The haltech key pad and ic7 screen integration is seamless.
I've been impressed with Haltech thus far. There are a large number of options out there, however, which is nice when trying to find something that checks the boxes for your project.
If you'd like to check the MKIV out in person, it will be displayed at the ATOM show on July 13th, 2024 in Detroit, Michigan. I'll be there with the Accelerated Performance crew where we'll be showing a number of very cool Supras and other Toyotas. Details can be found at the following link: www.atomotiv.com/atom-car-show.html
Thank you for your kind words and condolences. I've put everything I had into this build and am proud of the end result. It'll be very special to take it for its first drive.
That's what I grew up listening to. A Tribe Called Quest and De La Soul were on repeat. While I can't use their music in long form videos due to royalties, I found a few gems through my royalty free music service that I had to use.
While it was happenstance that it ended up like that, I agree that it takes a nice, organic path around the filler neck. I'm elated with the end result of this project and desperately want to take it on its maiden voyage.
I've been following this build for a little while and your attention to detail just amazes me every time. I hope you know that your dad would be proud of you. You sir are an inspiration and a man who puts his heart and soul into his work.
Thank you for coming along for the journey. I think he would be and I've tried to make this my nicest build to date. It'll be a magical experience to take the first drive in this car again.
