Estaba pensando en el tipo de aceros inoxidables: el Austénico, el Ferrítico, el Martensítico, el Duplex, el Endurecible por Precipitación...y pensando si estamos haciendo bien las cosas...
This is 14ga because there was a sheet that came to where I work without protective plastic on it so I got a deal on it. 16ga is what I would use normally
I guess business associate is better then partner, but is that kind of a breakup? Did you check with your interior decorator to make sure white wall plates match with ivory outlets? You certianly do fine work there my man! ( Wait, I mean business associate). I enjoy watching your videos and seeing a project come together. Keep them coming! 👏
If it requires a seam and there’s enough money in the job I would say buy .06inch thick copper sheet half-hard. You can still bend half hard copper without cracking it. After you weld the seam you can polish it and hammer as needed on the bottom side while the top is sitting on a flat hard table. Where the weld is will be soft so you’ll have some flexibility there. I’ve bought some of this material from Farmers Copper before, they are out of Texas and have some good info on copper on their website
Thank you man! Definitely going to try and get something close to 14ga. Didn’t know I had to get it half hard farmers copper is selling me hard material I’m sure that would crack? So it has to at least be half -hard right? Thank you again! Great info !
Yes sir, the rod is copper. It’s called deoxidized copper rod. The removal of all oxygen from the rod helps prevent what’s called hydrogen embrittlement
looks nice I was thinking of doing just a copper top over concrete top of chimney to keep water from soaking in I have stainless caps on two flues but this whole cap with built in top part and screens looks really nice.
That moth to the flame looked to get unhappy real quick! Interesting, I am looking to see of if I can weld pipe tight style an wonder if it would put less heat in the pipe overall. I have to braze pipe very close to sensitive parts and it is a challenge to keep the sensitive stuff cool
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks for tip, just looking for any possible solution for brazing around sensitive areas, our younger guys are damaging some parts that are super close and I did as well back in the learning years, just looking to modern tech to make life a little more simple. It is hard to teach finesse
That’s called a Tig Brush. There is another popular brand called Surfox. They essentially use a small current in acid to remove the oxidation of Stainless steel welds. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Actually, if you are talking about the tool tray not the lower shelf. I used half inch maple with a rabbet on all sides to fit in a 1/4 inch groove in the sides. Since the tray is so long I did glue about an inch in the middle on the tray shelf to the outer side so it could still expand and contract. A middle divider could also be used instead
When i was a kid, i got an axe stuck in a tree. I used a 8lb sledgehammer to get it out. I didn't even know my arm was bleeding until i felt a little stream running down my arm! 30+ years later... My scar is still there.
How does the Magnetic break work with your stainless fab ? Looking at getting one just checking on the stainless and the thickness ? Great content ! Keep up the good work Charlie
It doesn’t work well on non magnetic stainless. It will barely do small pieces of 20ga stainless. Good for steel up to 16ga the full width. A cool tool but has its limitations
The brand name is dynafile by dynabrade. This one is electric which has good for me at home. The company is best known for their pneumatic tools which there is that option which is lighter but requires a lot of air volume. There are cheaper options from other brands which I would probably try now, Milwaukee actually makes one now that they call a bandfile
