i link all the parts in the descriptions of the video, if you cant buy them there for some reason due to location i would try ebay or amazon, if youre just looking for oem replacement items rockauto is good but i dont know if they ship to mexico
I have a 90 extended cab i put the 4 inch blocks but took out two leafs. Bounced so bad had to put it all back to stock. How's the ride on yours with all four leafs.
I have 3” on My 1987 b2000 just ordered a 4” bell tech block kit.Can’t wait to see how it works out.Have you hauled anything light like a small lawn mower?
good question, theres a couple reasons, first is for me i just didnt want the extra suspension travel that it would give me (my tires hit my fenders a lot already), second is that when you space only the lower ball joint you run into the issue of it changing your suspension geometry as it makes the distance between the lower control arm and upper control arm larger which could cause issues with handling due to changing the suspension arc (it may not necessarily be enough to but I'd rather be safe than sorry)
@@Blue_B2200 I'm about to do the same thing except that I was a little skeptical on the plate!? To have, or not to have was the question? Thanks a lot 👍👍
Its super easy, do 1 side at a time. Lift the truck up on jack stands unbolt the tortion bar bolt, get a hammer tap out the bar u might have to get vice grips and tap on that if it dont com out easy. But b4 you do that mark the tortion bars at the tortion socket and re-index the bar 2 teeth. Once u do that reinsert the bar bolt it back in most of the way, repeat the other side. Drop the truck on the ground and if u want it lower just loosen the bolt on each side just make sure both sides match. I used a tape measure at the front fender where it meets the bumper
tonight i have literally watched every vid of yours seeing this minitruck be built, this is so inspiring and i love your vids man keep it up. i cant wait for the next upload
most likely yes, honestly i think you could get it to go with just the bottle jack compressing the leaf spring and not the ratchet strap though. the way it works is the leaf spring gets longer when its compressed which changes the position of the block, its only a problem when putting the block in and doesnt cause any issues when the block is mounted or when the truck is on the ground
Makes me wish i would have made full videos of 4 linking and bagging mine. I suppose i could always do a walk through video of how i did everything. If you ever decide to 4 link and bag it i am down to help. I am down in vancouver so not too far from ya. I compiled a list of almost everything needed. Total cost on the low end is like 1500$ (thanks amazon) lol
in the far future i plan on 4 linking the rear but putting coilovers on instead of bags, the goal for this truck is to eventually have it be a fun weekend street/track vehicle. Also you should totally make some videos on your truck, my approach is the worst that can happen is you have fun making the video and no one watches and you still had fun, best case is you had fun making the video and people can learn a thing or two. I'm a big proponent of people just getting out there and making stuff so i say do it, you wont regret it
i haul plenty of stuff in my truck, i haul all kinds of things including my motorcycle in it. if you think this makes it incapable of hauling then youre dead wrong
@@Blue_B2200 Fair enough. I've seen enough slammed cars and trucks here that can't go over a speed bump, but I don't know how they lowered it. Good on ya ;)
could you go into more depth on a wiring harness or state where to get the information for it? i have 1989 b2200 and bought the same radio and this harness is confusing me because it seems like we have different parts? ty!
you have to get a stereo adapter harness that will plug into the factory mazda plugs, that harness comes with the instructions of what goes to where and you cross reference that with the stereo included wiring harness diagram, i thought i put a link to the wiring harness in the description but i guess not so here it is: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/metra-electronics-mazda-86-89-truck-86-93-wire-hardness-adapater-70-1781/22610183-P?vehicleIdSearch=14623&isAllVehicle=false
Start calling it the Mazdaratti after a couple times u just call it that naturally lol Mazda gang I drive a b2600 myself it's all stock but seems lower then a lot of other trucks
Your truck is f-ing beautimus! I don't know if you buffed it or painted it, but boy oh boy, it's beautiful! Have you experienced any drive shaft vibration of any sort? Also can't recall if you said that you cut your bump stops or kept them? I've been following you along with the refurbishing and furthermore I'm replacing hydraulic tappets, have you been inside of your engine? Keep up the good work ✌️
paint is all original, one of my friends whos really good at detailing has buffed and waxed the whole truck for me a couple times. no driveshaft vibration so far. i cut my bumpstops when i lowered my truck but with my wheel and tire setup my tire still hits the fender before the bumpstop hits the frame but i havent had any issues with contact even while hauling loads. also unfortunately/fortunately i cant help you (yet) with the hands on engine work aspect of this as my trucks engine runs great and has basically 0 mechanical issues, however my buddy just got a b2200 for $200 that needs a lot of work and we'll probably go more in depth in that sort of stuff in future videos on that truck
not sure if you mean take the grommet off entirely or just remove it temporarily, definitely not permanently. i also dont recall having to remove it to install the cable but i could be misremembering
glad you kept your mistake in the video. we all make them at times. admitting you stuffed up and showing the result of your mistake will (hopefully) help me and everyone else to not do the same thing.
Hi from New Zealand 🇳🇿 just seen your video and just ordered one, I have what we call over here a 1993 Ford Courier XLT Space Cab 2.2L petrol which is basically the same as a Mazda B2200 which we also have over here. I put bolt on Loadhog leaf spring helpers on the rear a few years ago to carry heavy loads and have since backed the adjustment off since I’m not carrying heavy loads anymore but the rear is still nice and solid with no body roll and responsive steering and they’re amazing and I can’t wait to put the Belltech anti swaybar on the front and it should be great all round for our winding NZ roads and mine isn’t lowered because I have 17’s with 235/55 all round and I like the stock hight for some of the terrain here and not to mention potholes🤦♂️. Keep up the good content dude👍
Before i install the weber, i should probably do the timing belt, water pump, valve seals, head gasket, valve gasket first, right? Lol, im not ready for that. I have a b2200 1992 with only 90k miles, but all the rubber gaskets are disintegrated, maybe from age or ethanol..
honestly weber first is not a bad idea lol, makes the engine bay sooooo much easier to work on man, it'll save you so much time especially with belts and gaskets
Yep, saw your video and immediately ordered one. Doing a tune up for summer fun, front R1 Concepts,rear brakes and air shocks along with some other odds and ends. Nice video👍
@@Blue_B2200 Sway bar just came in and it’s gorgeous. You said you had a problem installing it, is it easy to get mixed up? I imagine the end of the bar where the end-links bolt on are supposed to go lower rather than higher. I’m installing it along with many other parts tomorrow and wanted to ask.👍thanks again
yeah it fits both right side up and upside down, the angled bits should point downward, though to be 100% sure i would just take a picture of your factory swaybar before removal
I own 9 cars, some 4-500 horsepower luxury cars, some japanese muscle cars v6 twin turbo's (300zx z32), some one of 2,000 (Lexus L Tuned Gs430), some one of a coupole hundred, (1984 Nissan 200sx Turbo 50th anniversary edition) but my Mazda B2200 is my baby, love the gas mileage, the 2.2 liter, and the ease of working on this thing. I was hit and totaled just recently but ressurected it on my driveway, even if I got a new truck, I dont think it would be half as reliable as my b2200. I also take it often on 4-500 mile road trips camping, and off roading, river crossings, this thing doesnt need 4wd cuhz its so light, it just glides past most terrain. I bought mine for 3,000$ in 2012 with 90,000, was garaged most its life, was really a nice looking truck and would constantly turn heads, and get thumbs up from other trucks, all while still getting close to 30 mpg!
theres a wire that connects to the alternator which is what i connected it to, you have to cut the factory connector and crimp on a new one because its held in place solid on the factory carb
In the US for the 1980 model year, it was sold as the B2000, which used a 2.0-liter F/MA engine, replacing the B1800. The diesel 2.2-liter B2200 was sold from 1981 with the chassis code UD (introduced during 1982 for the United States). If it has a carburetor then it isn't a 2200. Straight from wikipedia, the gas engine is the B2000 as it is a 2.0 liter engine. The Perkins diesel is the 2.2 liter B2200. Your truck is great and so is your channel, just wanted you to be aware as a fellow B series owner.😅
youre wrong, my truck is a uf chassis, all b2000 and b2200 sold in the u.s. from 1986-1993 are carbureted unless originally sold in california. my truck uses the f2 2.2l carbureted gas engine, the uf b2000 uses the fe 2L carbureted gas engine.
naw man, B2200's were 1987-1991 i think. 2.2l gasoline engine. I have a 1989 B2200, and it is carbureted. The factory carbs are complicated and a pain in the butt though.
