Advanced RC Adventures (A2RC) - This is a channel where we investigate, explore, build, explain, upgrade and advance Nitro RCs to another level - Lets Start a New Adventure Together #NitroIsTheBestGo
@@a2rc Was for my WR8 3.0. I ruined the first engine that came with it due to inexperience with tuning nitro engines. Lol. I’ve gotten better over the last year so it was time to put the WR8 back in service🫡🫡🫡🫡
@@hobbymanrc79 I see you have a couple vids of it on your channel. I’ll have to check it out 💯 - It’s awesome you got the car back up and running now. Nice work !
@@Nitro_rc_life I appreciate that🩷 Hopefully you’re enjoying them. - The R40 is a great car. Do you happen to have one? Between weather and real life, I’m still trying to get out for a POV/Speed run adventure with her. Appreciate everyones patience with that one
@@Nitro_rc_life I have been addicted to On-Roads forever now it seems. - I do have some trucks and of course they are fun but, I really enjoy the touring cars. At times, there is more to “set-up and do” with the cars. In my opinion, they’re more similar to full scale car than the truck models are (if that makes sense). - So, someone would need to enjoy that build/set-up and test aspect of the hobby but, if you at all enjoy it, it’s easy to fall in love with the touring car segment - Let me know if you end up getting one. I would love to hear about it
@@Nitro_rc_life Thanks ‼️ - Do you happen to have one or the other or both of these engines in a build? I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write Nitro_Rc_Life 🩷
Thanks for the great comparison! Once again another amaizing video! Can you please tell a bit about G 3.0 HO version. It looks like this version is kind of a beast with 2.2 HP at 30 000 rpm as OS 18CVR is "only" 1.35hp at 28 000rpm. What gives this big difference in between?
@@lyubennyagulov9012 😮 Thank you for the kind words ‼️ Makes me happy to know you enjoyed the vid The next engine overview planned in the Volume 5 series, is in fact the G3.0 HO. Stay tuned for that one - A little insight into the T and G3.0 horse power claims is just that, they are claims. HPI/Force seems to have have been a way over on what reality may be. I personably would love to see real dyno data on both engines. OS claims 1.35hp for the 18CVR and that is probably more realistic. - The driving test I referred to in the vid are of two very similar RS4 builds with the two different engines attached (T3.0 vs 18CVR). I did a series of test and the CVR came out on top (even with the 2.2Hp claim for the force/HPI .18 engines). - Todays vid shown a great comparison, as to why the design of the CVR engine is a bit better than the T/G3.0. In my opinion anyway I hope that helps a bit and I really appreciate you taking the time to write and for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rc Thanks for the answer in very great details! It looks like the G3.0 HO really outperformes the ordinary G3.0, but the only difference I can see is the carb. The G3.0 HO tosses with no problem the HPI WR8 chassis, which is quite heavy, but I havent tried to mount OS 18CVR on a WR8. Looking forward to see your next video=)
@a2rc I do not, but I do enjoy assembly videos and how engines are put together. I have and work on a Losi Five-T 2 stroke Gas. I have a nitro hpi on the shelf, but it is missing the engine at the moment.
@@JoesGarage831 Well, there will be a lot more engine vids as we go along. - The 2 Stroke Gas engines are pretty awesome! Let me know if you end up getting an engine for your HPI 💯 Would love to hear about it
@@JoesGarage831 I just Sub to your channel. 🩷 - Do you happen to have a video on the HPI? I might be able to help you figure out which one it is if I could see it. Just a thought
@@Hardy_boy1 Thanks Hardy! - If you haven’t yet seen all of Vol 3, you can check out the Play List and watch all the vids in that series I appreciate you watchn’ 🩷
I want to rebuild my .15fe but having a hard time finding a piston and sleeve, is there another sleeve or piston that is compatible to fit it?.. hard to find an original. 🙁
@@SoundStream101 Hi SoundsStream. That’s a great question 💯 - The original piston and sleeve set is really hard to find right now but, they do pop up on eBay from time to time. Because they are rare, at times they can be pricy but, we all have to pay to play to keep these great engines going. It’s worth it - There was one other option but, it’s not really an option at this point. That’s because it was rare to find when it was made. “DuraTrax” made a ABC version sleeve for the 15Fe but, because it was super popular during the time, you can’t find them now anyway Hope that helps a little bit. I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
@@a2rc I appreciate your response. I guess I'll just have to keep my eye out, maybe I'll get lucky and find one , it's for my original HPI MT Nitro that I purchased back around 2000 and refuse to get rid of it because I love it so much and it has a great deal of sentimental value to me, but what's really strange is it runs great but it has almost no compression what so ever when I turn the flywheel by hand and blows my mind( cant feel any pinch at TDC) . Maybe I should just leave it well alone "if it ain't broke dont fix it" type of situation lol..I was hoping to keep it original stock condition but there was a few times I've thought about getting the HPI 3.0 replacement, what's your experience with them? Do you think it would be a pretty good substitute?. I'm not quite sure off the top of my head if it was the T3.0 or the G 3.0 but I need the one with the long shaft. Any information or input would be great!.. thanks ✌
I have a question. I have an old hpi mt2 18ss and it still has the 18ss engine in it. It’s starting to get tired and I’m wondering (can’t find any information) if the sleeve, con rod and piston from these newer 3.0 engines would work in the old 18ss. Since they are both .18 size. There’s no such thing as rebuild parts for the 18ss that I can google up anywhere. I know I can just put the new engine in, but it would be nice to keep the original in it working. Thanks. Glad I found your video because I was going to reach out to the bug 404 because I’m in Canada too, but I see he’s in the comments here already too. As well as the nitro gang guy.
@@gregdeguerre8804 Thanks for the great question 💯 - Unfortunately, the 18SS and the G3.0 engines are made made different companies. The 18SS has been long discontinued and parts are very hard to come by (super expensive at that) I have a 18SS MT2 as as well. As you know, they are great trucks. Currently, I have a SH18 on it (would not be my first choice) but, get the job done just fine. - If you want to put a current manufactured engine on the truck, then I would suggest the HPI T3.0 (made by Force). We are going to go over that engine on our next Engine Overview. Feel free to check it out when it’s released. - Other than the T3.0, there are some great discontinued replacement options as well. The OS 15 and 18CVR, 15SS, SportsWerks 18, etc. that doesn’t mean you have yo stop looking for the 18SS but, just trying to give you some options. Just look for standard shaft small block engines Hope that helps a bit and thanks so much for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rcHey thanks for the reply. Ya I wasn’t sure. I know in the .18ci size there’s bore and stroke variables to consider. This poor truck has been sitting for 8-10 years now. I bought a G3.0 and the motor mount and the clutch bell wouldn’t line up with the spur. So much for believing what you read on the internet about it dropping in. I didn’t know back then about the difference in the crank shafts. So yes the T3.0 looks like the ticket. I just ordered one. I have a savage with the F4.6 v2 as well that I just woke up again this year. I bought it brand new 10 years ago and it’s only had 2 gallons run through it. Keep burning nitro. I’ve seen some scary pictures of burnt garages from charging lipo batteries and they were in the lipo safe bags. No thanks. 👍
@@gregdeguerre8804 Call me old fashioned or whatever but, that’s the same reason I still use NIMH receiver packs. I still have no interest in buy or using Lipos. Idk maybe one day but, today is not that day lol. - It’s awesome you are getting back into the hobby a bit more now. The fun never goes away and I’m sorry you got some bad info about the G3.0. Just remember/or know that you can still use the side auxiliary engine mount flanges as needed on the T3.0 (even though it has integrated ones). I always enjoy helping where I can so, feel free to continue asking questions if you believe I’m be able to help out
Hey a2rc, i got same still very fresh low millege with original novarossi sleeve c12 but my problem sleeve is seized to the block so much i can't get it out, ( all common things tried) did your old sleeve come out easilly ? how far does the sleeve go into block ? im thinking if i can't get it out i will have to cut engine block to get sleeve out. cause crankshaft have rust i need to polish out, basically because of seized sleeve i can't get engine running. btw is there any manual for novarossi c12 ?
@@lukassslukasss1864 Hi Lukas 🩷 First wanted to let you know I appreciate you watchn’ and reaching out - Every engine is different on fitment and condition. The best recommendation I can give is to use heat. Make sure all plastic and o-rings have been removed beforehand. A lot of times, the old oil/fuel acts as a “cement” that holds some parts in the block. Also, if the clearance/fitment is tight, it makes it hard too. - It sounds as if you have disassemble engines before so, I’m hoping that may give you a better/different starting point. Have you used heat yet ? Let me know and thanks for the message
@@a2rc Yes its isn't my first nitro engine i've dissasembled, i have over 25 vintage nitros, but sometimes i come across engines like my c12, sleeve stuck beyond removing it and not suprised, somehow i have bad luck with novarossies .12 engines, its my second .12 novarossi engine i own and has same problem as first one really seized sleeve.
@@lukassslukasss1864 So far in the years of me doing this, there has only be 2 engines that I couldn’t physically get all the way apart. One was a 40+ year old Enya that looked like it had been sitting under salt water for years. The other was a Rossi 12 (not a C12) but I guess similar. It was a HPI branded Rossi - The Rossi was a New engine that I gave up on tearing down completely to check it out. I stoped because I didn’t want to hurt the sleeve, bearings, etc . My conclusion is that, there must be a large burr (near the transfer port area) that I cant see, that is holding the sleeve in. The sleeve can move a little bit but even with a lot of heat, would not pop out. Again, this was a brand new engine That engine is still healthy and running but, I won’t attempt to break it down again until something really bad happens lol. I unfortunately know that, I will have to destroy the engine to find out what the issue is. Then I know I won’t be able to rebuild it but, hopefully at least understand what was going on with it That is not a normal circumstance and I kind of doubt that you have the same issue but, my point is that, odd ball stuff can happen to keep us from getting the engine completely apart. - My suggestion is for you to still heat up the block (may be more than normal) and keep trying to push out the sleeve from the bottom with a wood push stick. Do heat cycles on the block, if needed. May be use some penetrating oil or just normal oil around the sleeve when it is hot. Sometime that helps to break up the chemical bond from the old fuel. - Bearings are going to be trash after so plan on replacing them (most all used engines should get new bearings anyway). Let me know if you are able to get the engine part please. As for a manual/set-up sheet. It really depends on what c12 variant you have. There are a lot of them, more than I would have ever expected. Sometimes you can use an Hpi manual and parts but, you have to be carful, to make sure you have the correct parts. Things may look the same but, part numbers do not cross over and may not work from engine to engine. - I hope that helps a little bit more. Let me know
@@a2rc I finally got my sleeve out with my home made extraction tool, acetone helped too, if you want i can try get out your sleeve with my tool without any harm to the sleeve walls or piston, let me know, succes rate really high. I couldn't get my sleeve out cause someone drove engine with really rich ricin oil percentage in fuel. I found few parts in germany for c12 engine but not with your mentioned parts numbers in the video, so im not sure if they fit.
@@lukassslukasss1864 I’m glad you got your sleeve out. - Be care with Acetone, not only for health reasons but, it attacks some aluminum surfaces. It should be safe around brass and chrome but, make sure your o-rings and seals stay away from it (you may be aware of all this already) Heat easily break downs/melts away the bond the old oils have between the sleeve and blocks. It’s is normally the easiest way to help disassemble the engine parts. I’ve take apart countless engines over the years. Some extremely bad with success, no special tools required. Heat is also a universal bearing puller too. All just things to consider. - Is your homemade sleeve puller one of the “plastic pullers” everyone seeks to be making these days (or something different)? Those designs are not too bad for new/lightly used engines but, on some engine that have ran and sat for 15+ year, a different method may been needed (heat, etc). There are some race engine companies that are starting to make aluminum versions of that tool type (for .21s). Note, they are designed for new/currently used engine sleeves. What part numbers did you find for your engine? Do you happen to know which C-12 version you have? I can do some digging for you as well to help out. - All these vintage engine are worth saving! It’s awesome you are working toward getting your going again 🩷
@@TastyBRC Thanks Tasty 🩷 Maybe not as great as some of your bodies but, it was a fun project for sure - I’m glad you like it 💯 and I’m happy the stickers turned out ok. First time ordering custom ones
Hey Rob! I don't know how I missed your comment? I'm sorry about that. - Are you asking if the transmission will handle a Novarossi .12 engine? Which engine is it?
@@Robrismo-rc I think it could probably handle 1hp or less. .7hp-ish, I think would be safe. Braking will be a different story lol and if you want to put a different engine in, you may have to modify the lower chassis plate. - Just something to consider
Bro, your video showed up while I was looking into this beauty. I'm going to be asking you for your help in bringing this car back to braapalicious status
Always happy to help 🩷 - I have rebuilt 2 now. A stock and filling modified version. There are some vids of both on the channel I’m glad you found the vid and thanks for taking the time to write 💯
@a2rc watching them now it's going to need lots of work, but it's basically all there going to need a one-way bearing and pullstart I'm good with body I would love to find a factory but that's going to be impossible 😅 cool project for future that's for sure
@a2rc also looks like the previous owner installed rear shocks, but not the front body posts are damaged, but he installed others instead it's going to need electronics for sure had to buy it at least if I can't put on the road again shelf queen for sure it's part of onroad racing history
@@Robrismo-rc They made a few versions of the Mantis over the years. They are an awesome parts of RC history for sure and you saving another is awesome Rob ‼️
Thanks Rob 🩷 I glad the project is complete and turned out well. - Now I can tear it up on the streets lol. She is made to run so, that’s what I’m going to do 💯 Do you have a body project going on right now?
That is my favorite body !!! I have two of them... a 1/10 scale version, and an 1/8th scale version... ready for paint, just chicken so I haven't painted them yet... I'm practicing painting 1st, so I can do a good job. Awesome ride man ! Congrats !!!
Thanks Texas 💯 I understand the feeling about wanting to do a good job on them. - have had this body for a year and half now lol. Took me a while to decide how I wanted to do it and get the time as well. - I can’t wait to see your bodies when you finish them 🩷 Keep me updated please
Yeah the fade turned out pretty well on this one. Just have to be patient with it as your doing it I appreciate you watchn’ and it makes me happy to know your like the way the body turned out 🩷 - Do you have another body project coming up?
😮 Thank You ‼️Always happy to Share and I appreciate you always taking the time to write 🩷 - The best part is always when you get to take off the plastic film lol. You never really know how it turned out until then
They could have done better with opening a spot in the block for the boost port making it a real 3 port. and ABC sleeve with a oil grove in the top few MM of piston. The pipe kit actually runs quite well. It was definitely a nice upgrade on the old 15FE engines. And with the fuels go 8% oil bump it to 12% with blendzall green label castor oil definitely helped the old ABN stuff live a long time 😎🍻🤘🏻
I agree Bug 💯 The engine design could have been a bit better but, they still perform pretty well for what they are. I have been surprised at performance the all blue RS4s build (everyone will see that project on some future Adventures) that has the blue 15CV Hyper w/O’Donnell Head - Like everything, a little care and some maintenance can allow for these old ABNs to last a long time. Unfortunately, we know that the majority of folks that ran these engine back in the day, just didn’t know what was needed and destroyed them quickly. I really enjoy talking, showing and sharing these vintage engines with the RC community. It helps to keep their history alive. I am sure you feel the same I appreciate you taking the time to write and for watchn’ 🩷 I always enjoy watching your adventures too
@@a2rc absolutely man! They were and still are very reliable engines and Kinda good all around performance. There was a company that made an ABC kit for them as well I can't remember the brand though
Another awesome video keep up the good work! The G3.0 is a great engine! I will say the R5 plug is way to cold and gives a very small tuning window. The os 8 or 7 plugs are much better! Mine had 3 shims i pulled 1 with the 8 plug and 25% nitro witch made a big difference! Also a port matched exhaust header really helped as well. KBN 🍻😎
LoL sounds like we feel the same about the R5s 😆 At this point, I only use them to break in the engine - Defiantly going to mess with the shim stack by removing and adjusting the thickness of them to get a bit better stack up for performance. I’m not surprised that the engine was a bit better with a lower shim stack. Its also good to know you have already tried it out and had some positive results I glad you enjoyed the Vid Bug ‼️ Thanks for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rc Also the exhaust header I think I'd mentioned was very Very small on the portside and needed a portmatch to the gasket shape which really helped improve flow as well as performance if you are running the stock HPI headers. But like I said the 8 or 7 and one less shim made a big difference. Always on point in your videos man keep up the good work! 🍻😎💯
Awesome engine I’ve managed too snag a brand new one of these with the silver head I wanna put it in my HPI. WR8 would this have any benefit over the force 18 as you have both thought I’d ask awesome content as always man love your channel
Hey Joe! Sorry your message got lost in the mix. Very sorry about that! Thank you for the kind words and I'm happy you are enjoying the vids. I apprecite you watchn' - The 18CVR will be a great addition to your WR8. From my testing, the CVR and the force 18s (There are a few flavors as you know), the CVR edges most of them out or are very similar in their power out put. Both would be good choices but, you get extra "cool" points with the CVR! lol I am most interested in the 18R that we will be doing an overview on an upcoming Engine overview but, you can't beat the Silver on Silver for the V1-18CVR (the 18R black on black looks good too). - The 18CVR is one of my favorite engines. Have you ran/owned one before this? - I can't wait to hear what you think about it. Please let me know how things go!
@@a2rc it’s sound my dude and can’t wait too get it running I’m waiting for a few parts before the cvr gets dropped in mostly the new polished exhaust that’ll match the silver head of my 18cvr this is my first os 18 i heard so many good things had too pick one up and the wr8 is one of my fav cars so thought it would be a great match plus never seen an os18 in a wr8 anywhere before so possibly a first if possible ill try get hold of a speed indicator too see if the new tuned pipe and engine set up improves anything from stock Plus the force 18 can go in my cen fun factor st as its cen .16 is running low on compression and has a few tanks left I think
@@joedoran6994 Awesome! What pipe did you choose for it? - You are right, I haven’t seen a WR8 with a CVR in it yet either. You may have the first or one of the first with that combo 🩶 That should be a fun upgrade for the CEN too. Sounds like you have a pretty great collection 💯
@@a2rc I’ve brought a power racing pipe from what I hear it improves mid range quite a bit someone on RU-vid had it on there wr8 plus it uses a spring set up between the header and pipe instead of the stock rubber coupler with plastic ties
@@joedoran6994 Oh nice! Depending on the style, I may have something similar of my Super Nitro In-line pipes (some times called “one piece” pipes) are great. - Sounds like you will have nice setup once it’s all put together
.18s are a great all around size engine‼️ Do you have a favorite type/brand? Or maybe something you have your eye on? I’m glad you enjoyed with vid CrazyDad 🩷 Thanks for letting me know
Thank you Ted💯 I really apprecite you watchn' and taking the time to let me know you liked it 💜 Makes it worth while - I do enjoy making them but, they take some work. I hope as I go, they get a little better each time. It's nice to know I can make something original and people enjoy watching it. I see the shorts as a fun way to hopefully balance out the longer vids
I’m just curious, can these SG crank engines be put on SNRS4? Or would the T3.0 be better? Do you have a project you are considering putting the G3.0 in?
Hey Tega‼️ Great questions It is possible to put a SG small block on a Super but, you may need to modify the lower chassis and depending on which clutch bell you use, it may affect mesh/alignment on the trans - Long story short, an engine with a Standard shaft would make things easier for sure. The T3.0 would be a good option and I personably look for standard shaft engine for all RS4s projects My G3.0 is reserved for a future HPI MT build. Also, you may know this but, the G will not work on the 1/10 RS4 3 without a lot of cutting. The T3.0 would be a direct fit. The black plate and pull start design is very different between the two engines As always, I appreciate you taking the time to write and for watchn’ 🩷
Hi and thanks for the great question 💯 Yes this engine can be used for a 1/10 model but, there are some cars that it may not work/fit in. - What car or truck are you interested in using it for? I appreciate you watchn’ 🩷
I always apprecite you watchn' 💜. Do you happen to have an RS4 or working on a new Nitro RC project? I would love to know ฉันชื่นชมคุณเสมอที่รับชม คุณมี RS4 หรือกำลังทำงานในโครงการ Nitro RC ใหม่หรือไม่? ฉันอยากจะรู้
