Hi there. Thank you for this incredible training video. For everyone - i found it useful to write it down to get it 100 percent ;) But after a few training sessions i found out I need about 6 days of rest until I`m 100 percent regenerated. Is this normal? By the way I`m climbing now for two years. I`m climb about 7th grade UIAA and my bodyweight is about 95 kilogramm- maybe this is a factor to think about. I know it is a little bit early to start hangboarding, but I had a knee operation so I can`t climb for 10 months :( - so I just don`t want to lose my finger strength...... My second question is especially about the video. In the beginning you do the "repeaters" and it says choose any hold you want. So when you do for example 4 sets. Should I choose in this 4 sets the same hold? And next training session another hold? Or what I also tried is the repeaters on a edge and the encores on a sloper.... Can i mix it up like this or what makes sense? Thank you an good grip from Germany
You can hangboard but make sure to have a good warmup before. If you have to rest that long you should have less intense workouts but more frequent (maybe 2-3 x per week). Also train your forearms with weights too especially the extensors. GL
@@benjaminlecter Alles was unterarm/fingerkraft ist alles in einer session. Such dir aber ein paar übungen aus. Die session sollte nicht länger als eine stunde dauern.
@@2fast4me9 dann würde es ja beispielsweise Sinn machen wenn ich part 1 (repeaters) und part 3 einarmig mache. Wie ist das eigentlich wird hierdurch meine Unterarm Ausdauer und gleichzeitig die Finger maximal kraft trainiert. Oder muss ich für maximal kraft in den Fingern tatsächlich dann einmal 10 sec hängen und dann 4 min pause machen das ganze ~ 4 mal?? Danke im voraus
The couch climbers are so funny. Angles of holds are so deceptive until you are there. A lot of the people who comment are actually V2-V6 climbers who get so mad because these look like moves in their climbs yet the holds and power required to pinch/pull and just stay on the wall require so much more they instantly think it's a V4-V6. If you think every route that is V7+ is going to be super crimp and sloper routes, your gym sucks and you're extremely closed minded.
great video, high in quality and very useful, also tom is mad strong look how he could hold it one arm at the end for like 8 seconds, well i suppose if you wanna be a team gb climber or just mad strong you gotta put the work in!
‘It’s not necessarily about how many pull ups you can do, or if you can do one arm pull ups. I can’t do it, for example'. Adam Ondra, not a serious climber
About not bending your elbows : If by doing pull ups with straight elbows you are causing an injury, pain in that area, that means that your tissue (tendons, ligaments) are weak and you need prehab to start doing it this way. By progressive overload of the tissue you will strengthen your elbow tendons and ligaments. Straight arm training is fundamental rule in gymnastics. Gymnasts do iron crosses and much more advanced skills with the completely locked elbows. I think gymnastic conditioning would be a great tool for climbers too. Even at the top level In climbing I can see a complete lack of knowledge on strength and conditioning.
+Kowalski Jan gymnasts are trained since they are 8-9 year old, that's when your body is growing. Look at ashima sirashi, for example. She grew climbing and her body adapted. I'm tired of gym lunks who think they know more than a doctor or try to look stronger in any way they can. Iron croses are not for 5.12 climbers, wich are the 80-90% of the climbing comunity. Grade is not important, the main thing is having fun. Tearing your muscles and your joints is no fun at all, and doing it just to loock macho is just stupid.
+raul2hash I happen to know quite a bit about training and applying gymnastic strength to adults. No offence but I can tell by your response that you simply lack the knowledge. Iron cross is a quite distant goal even for gymnast, you would need quite a lot of knowledge to train it. Every adult can successfully train straight arm strength giving the right approach, obviously that is a different approach to that taken by kids. Straight arm strength in particular could be of benefit to climbers. It just takes some growing up to hide your ego and train right from the beginning. If someone performs such a basic exercise as a pull up and can't do it at full range of motion that means this someone has seriously compromised shoulder mobility and should step by step address it. There is no point in trying to comfort yourself and explain this as being dangerous. It simply means you are seriously weak. You need strong ligaments and tendons as much as muscles, especially in climbing. Apart from that what can give you more fun than training for front levers or planche. Speaking about doctors, they would be the last people I would like an advice on exercise.
