We picked the brains of Alex Barrows on how he trains endurance, and what specific training he did to climb Era Vella (9a).
Session Plan:
Base endurance:
20-40 minutes on the wall
A feeling of bloodflow in the forearms, or a light pump but always in control
Training for longer, pumpy routes:
Circuit of approx. 30 moves
Rest between circuits should be around the same amount of time as it took to climb
Aim for 8 repetitions, you should be failing on the last 1-2 of these.
You can adjust the difficulty of the circuit and the length of the rests slightly in order to get the level of difficulty right
Back to back problems:
Pick 4 problems which are quite hard for you
Each problem should be 5-7 moves long
Climb them back-to-back with only a short rest (15 seconds or less)
Then take a long rest (10-20 minutes). Repeat the exercise 3 more times.
Foot-on campusing:
Pick a sequence of hand moves.
You can slow the movements down by incorporating foot movements, or by counting in your head. This is especially useful if you're training for onsighting.
Try starting with 1 minute on the board, 1 minute rest
Aim for 8 repetitions, again, you should be failing in the last 1-2 repetitions
For the next session, reduce the rest time slightly
I get good results doing this exercises after finishing the back-to-back problems exercise mentioned above
27 май 2015
