We're Corey and Amy, and this is our van, Igy. It’s just us, our #vancats LeeRoy and Purrrl, and a few bikes along for the ride. (Get it? Along for the ride! Hahaha :) In 2020 we rented out our house, moved into our 2005 t1n 158 inch wheelbase Sprinter van, and began traveling full time.
Nowadays, we travel the Western US in search of rocks to climb, hot springs to soak, trails to ride, and peaks to hike. Follow along on our journey and get inspired as we look for the good and share it with you!
With a screw driver, I only could get one in. The second one was not success no matter what. So I came up with a much much easy solution, use a hydraulic jack to push the screw driver up. SO EASY, LOL. My van build is almost completed now but there is still a 1 inch gap between the rear Sumo spring and the axle. I don't know if I just wasted my $300. :(
Thank you ! The same happened to me. I didn’t know what happened , why it was so difficult to manage even the easier hill climbs. The power was all of a sudden , it was easy to loose control.
Thanks, i did just like your video and now the power valve is working again. My problem started after a crank seal replacement, when i put the case i forgot to check if the control arm was engaged.
Thanks for post all. I’ve had very similar on my van for years. No mechanic has been able to repair. I’ve had 2 replacement batteries, several new relays, new starter motor, new ignition key. Placed an additional negative wire from battery to block. Still does it. I’ve noticed it does it worse when battery is slightly lower voltage and managed to find a work around with a twin feed solar panel and jumping from aux to main battery when it plays up. I suspect the fusebox as it’s a common reported fail on these and the problem has generally got better for a while with a thorough contact clean. It’s got lots of little riveted joins and lots of weak plastic supports that fail and stop plugs form inserting properly so I may try a solder job if integrity looks ok & cost of replacement is prohibitive.
If the bike is bogging down reving up in high rpm an won’t go in high rpm in gear it’s the power valve?? I also wrecked an that’s why it’s doing what I’m saying
That’s an awesome idea. I wonder if that would work if you put that at the back of a van. But I’m like you I have to have couch mode during the day. To me it’s such a waste of space all day long when it’s in bed mode. And I think that bed mode it’s harder to make them a couch converter
I have the same no crank and dash lights going out when I turn key to engage the starter. I replaced the ignition switch and now have lights upon only one try of the key; then, dash lights go out. Just got through with having SOS Diagnostics test the ECM and they say all is good. So I will replace the fuse block and see what happens. Original owner 'o6 and 190K miles with no codes and good battery (NAPA tested). Electric ground at firewall has plenty of clean metal. No error light comes on. Starter relay under seat is good-new.
@@frontlinemedia4270 There is a common problem to this model. The short negative cable from battery Neg post to firewall develops resistance after so many years. Even through I tested the voltage it was not a proper test and there was a hidden 4.5V drop in the wire. $50 for a new cable and all is good. The ignition switch was going bad over 5K miles as I experienced some turning of the key with no starter engagement. It may happen once every month; then 4 times a months then it completely stops working. 180K miles
@@vincentrolfe1384 I cleaned that ground cable again, but it didn't look bad. Didn't do a resistance test tho. I replaced the ignition switch as well. I still don't know what is going on. I think I have some module failing.
Great video and explanation, in the process of doing top end in my 200 never knew how to adjust the power valve and just happened to stumble on your video. Now I know how. Thanks for great info!!
I hate to say it but you created a real mess for whoever ends up fixing the rust around the windshield. You really should have taken out the glass and did a proper rust and paint procedure to get a lasting result.
Well I just pulled the bigger clutch side cover on my 01/03 hybrid 200 (03 jug on 01 bottom end) to replace crank seal and lost all top end despite successful seal fix, now I know where to look, really informative video, liked and subscribed, hope this helps me.
Thanks to this vid it took all of 45 minutes to pull the exhaust, the covers, and identify that in my case no movement was present. Apparently the arm protruding from the adjuster was completely dislocated. Makes sense as it is attached to the cover. Some poking with a spring hook produced a snapping noise and movement which still wasn't producing a result. Traversing the adjuster back and forth with my fingers while gently pushing on the adjuster side with a tiny pick, quite blind to be frank, eventually snapped the mechanism in place. The ignition side with the marks was too black to see any marks, some carb cleaner on a rag cleaned it up and adjustment was successful. A bit too late to test ride today but fingers crossed for tomorrow. Reassembly was also completed within the 45 minutes. Once again what an amazing video, enough background, to the point, no filler, helpful and understandable, this one deserves a medal. Greetings from Finland!
@@erozC hello. first off all, pls answer me hahaha. i am really sad beacuse my ktm 144 did this after i took the inner clutch cover off and replaced it and i wasent properbly ingage. could i just take the coveer off again and try to make it snap back or´dose something prevent me from doing that? or do i have to do it like in the video? thanks
@@danmarkfordanskereI believe you can take the clutch cover off and do it again, but in my opinion that is much more work. I thought this video is a shortcut!
Thanks for the video. I realize you guys didn't use a replacement part, but do you know what that would be, if one wanted to replace the little plastic piece? (I.e., what it's called)
My sprinter when i bought had rust holes in top corner and was cracked from top right corner. Repaired the holes then the crack in windshield came from right top corner. Rust is expanding and cracking my windshield. Scared to replace the wind shield due to new one will crack to. Dont seem like the rust is bad enough to actually make the windshield crack.
Don't use caulk on your van. Please don't destroy one of these vans there's not many left. It will eat the paint and rust underneath every spot of caulk you put on it
Is that an acid cure caulk? If so, you have created a way bigger problem. The acid will eat the paint to bare steel and then even help corrode the steel even worse.
There are two factors, improper, careless and sloppy previous windshield replacement, the second is actually the steel itself, the chemistry and poor quality. Also, on a clear, quiet night, you can actually hear a sprinter rusting.
Nice video. How do you feel the handling has changed? We are struggling with with very uncomfortable ride at bumpy roads with our t1n sprinter. And what part number is it? Looks like we need the exact same as you installed:-)
I recommend going to a KTM dealer who will have a parts diagram. If you’re patient you can look up the part yourself - rockymountainatvmc.com is an authorized seller and has parts diagrams.
OMG that looks hard to do to me. But I'm one of the people that are pretty darn smart but just can't work puzzles. LOL So this is very good for me to watch. Probably about 3 times before it starts to sink in. But I need to try! I just got a transit connect, so hope to have a little bed.
Many people choose to have a full time breed setup because they don’t like to flip and fold. You may just be one of them! It’s whatever works for your lifestyle :)
sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Josue Fisher i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
The start error issue is related to the chip in your key or the thing responsible for connecting with the right key. Which is located behind the cluster under the rounded panel .
Good heads up! I to just replaced my windshield and have yet a rock crack in the new one. Hopefully it will not move as the last one did prompting a replacement. Ciao
