Not 100% sure, but I believe the abs modules are similar and assuming that the bad solder joints are the problem, then this repair should solve your issues. Thanks and good luck!
Thank you for this video it absolutely helped me. The bolts for the engine mounts were seized/ I wasn’t strong enough to break them free so I couldn’t lift the engine but luckily was able to remove a bracket and had just enough room to pull that bottom bolt out. But again thank you so much!!!
So Glad I Found this Video I Just Got A 87 Safari Van And It Makes Noise In The Rear When You Put It In Gear Forward Or Reverse . Hope This Will Really Fix It
I believe there is a way to test the wheel sensor using a multimeter on the sensor wire at the connector. Maybe check other RU-vid videos on how to do it. Thanks.
Great video my man! I have a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD and when i come to a stop i get this creaking/clunk/thud sensation. Only when i stop. This most likely the culprit. Question: do you notice the clunking when you try and twist the driveshaft with your hands? Or is it only when in motion? Thanks!!
The symptoms I had that was the cause for this repair, was that I would feel the clunk kind of under my seat, only when stopping or accelerating. If you can feel it just by twisting the driveshaft, it may be a u-joint, Pinion gear or rear differential problem. This video really addresses the fact that the drive shaft slip yoke sticks because of lack of lubrication. Hope this help! Thanks for the comment!
U-joints can cause a similar symptom. In fact, I had mine fail before and it was actually making a grinding noise. When the drive shaft is removed, perfect time to analyze the u-joint for failure. Thanks for the comment.
Appreciate the question. I’m just a DYI guy and don’t hire out for repairs. Don’t know what a shop would charge for this repair. If you don’t want to do the soldering, I do know there are companies that will swap out a repaired module for a fee if you send them the old one. You just have to do the labor of removing the unit. Good luck and thanks!
Thank you! I watched other videos on replacing the alternator, and they glossed over getting that bottom bolt out. That was the part I had the most trouble with. I spent an hour trying to get it, then watched this video, and everything became easy. Thank you for sharing!
I have an 02 Silverado z71 doing this too. Dose anyone else have problems when slowing down for a turn then accelerating? It feels like there’s a little spin then a big clunk ? It also happens when I’m at a stop then accelerate a bit then a clunk ?
You mentioned you may have stripped a screw on your Silverado and cut the head off. I too, on my Silverado stripped one screw. What was your technique on cutting off the screw head? My screw is the second one facing the ABS underneath. Thanks
If I remember correctly, I used a pair of wire cutters and just kept cutting little by little at the head of the screw. I’m sure there is a better way but that’s what I did. Not a whole lot of room to work in that area. Good luck! Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. I have a 2002 suburban with an intermittent ABS light. I'll be pulling the module and soldering it tomorrow. I just need to find some of that heat transfer Grease.
hello I have a ford f150 lariat 2018 80000kls with the same driveshaft problem I went to Ford they removed the driveshaft and lubricated it with PTFE grease and the noise disappeared thank you
I took my ABS module out 2 days ago and re-soldered the joints on the circuit board and no more ABS & Brake light .. there was a row of 4 solder joints with 2 having small cracks that you needed magnifying glass to see …
I'm going to try this tomorrow. I have a 04 Tacoma and it clunks whenever if shifts from 1st to 2nd gear and when I'm stopping. Also the truck twists a little hard from left to right when changing gears like Drive and Reverse. Hopefully it fixes the issue.
Of course this video pops up after I've replaced both you joints and had the entire rear diff rebuilt. 😂😂 For the record the rear opinion seal was leaking anyway so the rear end had to be taken apart but still.
Well, if it makes you feel any better, this did solve my problem at the time on my Silverado, but eventually the rear differential carrier assembly failed and I did have to replace it also. The pinion gear will wear along with the differential and eventually will have to be replaced. 200,000 miles for me. You should be good for years to come now! Thanks!
nice video ! however, NEVER use solder paste on electronic components !!! It's acid based, and will corrode the connections in a few years....use rosin core solder (okay) or liquid rosin based flux (in a little bottle with brush, like fingernail polish) It's active when heated, and inert when cools. Dissolves & dilutes with Alcohol...can lean board after soldering with toothbush dipped in Alcohol after soldering....or just leave it be
My 05 silverado started clunking if im at a stop then take off it clunks and also from a stop if i let go of the brake it holds it still then i accelarate and clunks does that sound like the issue u were having ?
Sounds exactly like the issue I was having. Also, check your u-joints. They can cause the same symptoms if one of them is bad. The other common problem with these vehicles is the rear differential. The pinion gear or internal carrier bearing wears and will also make a clunking noise when going between drive and reverse. Good luck. Hope this helps!
My 07 tundra 4.7L has a slight bump instantly when i left off the brakes from a complete stop and I’m thinking it’s the slip yoke. I also have a very mild vibration between 50-70 mph, i thought it was my cheap tires but since it’s doesn’t happen every time im thinking it’s related to the slip yoke being dry. Going to try to grease it first.
I have both on in my Envoy. Have checked the wiring and found the two fuses are being supplied with 2.3 Volts. The switch mod sends them voltage when key is on. Not great electrical drowning. Shows from fuses but not where power too them comes from. Just saying.
great video, funny but I did not need to raise the engine and I used a ratcheting wrench to remove the main bolt after I loosened with a ratchet and socket. I dont remember if you said to remove positive battery terminal first so you dont short the cable on the engine.
I pretty much left it in the same position, start watching video at about 6:30 in and if you notice in the video, I zip tie it to keep it tight against all the other pulleys so all I have to do is put it back on the alternator pulley. If the belt comes off the other pulleys, before you lower the engine back down, you should have enough room to reach in and realign the belt on the other pulleys. Thanks and good luck.
