Hey we are Dan and Shannon. We are Clear Mind an artisan jewellery and casting studio in Peterborough, Ontario focusing on alternative and custom jewellery, and other metal work. Subscribe for castable resin reviews, tutorials, tool reviews, and other videos.
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Want to know what tools we use in our videos: clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list
Finally I have found an example of small netting in WAX!!!! I’ve been working on making a fine netting almost like screen, like you have used on this rose flower!!!! I’ve failed miserably but keep trying. Do you have any tips you wouldn’t mind sharing on how you archived it???
I'm using this vintage resin for more than 6 months I have already done so many experiments.. Like I don't recommend stone setting if your stone can't handle extreme heat 1K degree Celsius and not for those who have a limited burnout cycle it creates a lot of clouds and imperfections because mostly burnout cycles common wax people not goes more to 4hours but it takes at least 6-8 hours. It is good resin lesser odor and strong and strength full of build items... But be careful with washing.
Hi, great vids and advice! I struggled with a specific casting now for a long while, been doing castings in gold and silver for a year and still learning. But this one is in brass. I came to a situation where i did 2 castings just now, and the printed models came out porous and pitted, but the injected wax model came out perfect. This was in gold and silver now. Question: why? 🤔 I mixed my model (gents signet ring) with the top in bluecast xone v2 and the ring injected wax. Will this be my problem like im thinking it is? I really went through weeks of fine tuning the burnouts and the temps and playing around with sprue's etc. Might it be that the waxes just dont like to be burned out at the same time?
We usually run different resins, waxes, and sometimes even organic matter all in the same flask. Brass can be a tricky one depending on how you are melting it and In our experience can have a higher rate of porosity. One of the many reasons why we like bronze for our personal work. This is usually due to melt temps and how much Zinc and other metals you may have burned off. There has been some confusion in our Discord lately around Blucast XOne V2 as it seems to be performing very hit or miss. It's rumoured that the resin is being altered or starts curing if X-Rayed in transit. However pitting is not usually the problem indicated. But an asphalt texture. You could be getting a 2 for one issue where you have a bad bottle of resin and you are also over cooking your brass but it depends on your process.
Thank you so very much! I knew i couldnt so unlucky, but that theres an explanation for the suffering😅 I think casting is awesome, the whole proses, thank you for helping me😊
Hey, I have been using this product and have had issues with casting. I believe my issues are related to resin migration into the investment. I have had successful casting with other resins such as Power resin and Siraya Tech. Should I try cleaning in IPA for longer? I do notice the bottom of the sprue does seem to sweat when I take off the flasks rubber bottom after letting investment harden in the flask.
So Burnaby needs quick rinses. It can absorb the alcohol and cause the prints to become brittle. So if you are noticing asphalt like texture then give another quick wash. We like drying this resin with an air gun (compressed air from a can, hand held dryer etc. But no heat) as this can help push away the alcohol and left over resin residue from the little details. If your items are larger than a 1" mini figure we recommend the 12hr burnout.
It's never needed a UV cure and they highlight that on the website yes but they still recommend a alachohol wash. See below directly copied from their website: Clean the prints using 91% to 99% ethyl alcohol. When using an ultrasonic cleaner, run a 5-minute cycle with heat turned off (recommended procedure). With a resin washer machine, run a cycle of approximately 5 to 10 minutes. For simple immersion in an alcohol bath, wait approximately 10 minutes submerged.
Desks with a semi circle cut out are common in the jewellery trade as this allows the jeweller to work into the bench and braced properly while having an area for tools or a catch for off cuts under their hands.
Have you by any chance used Castable cyan with formlabs form 2 Printer or any SLA printer? I use it right now With an old old cheap any cubic photon mono 4K and found a cheap form 2 and want to upgrade but castable cyan is the only resin i use and it says msla, but i heard you can use msla resins in sla printers?
Due to the different wavelength of light on SLA printers, including the form to this resin will not work, however, it may work on the form for however we have not personally tested it and due to the closed ecosystem nature of form labs machines it might be difficult
@@ClearMindJewellery I appreciate the reply 🙏🏻 on the forms labs website it says the form 2 laser is 405nm which is the same as form 4 and MSLA printers, but I checked form 4 specs and I guess the form 4 is now MSLA so is that the difference your talking about? Am I just chasing pipe dreams here thinking I can get Castable Cyan to print good on the form 2? That surface smoothness is just so nice, and I think I can hardware hack the form 2 to run 3rd party resins in closed mode
Unless your printer is DLP, or a closed ecosystem, a lot of resins and printers can be cross compatible. Find a resin that works well for the type of objects that you are printing (rings with lettering, miniatures, filagree, etc). At least 9 resins from our list have been through this machine including some from Bluecast, Power Resins, Phrozen, Apply Lab Work, and others; clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
I am having problems casting large parts, I am using purple Syraya. The ring you cast is so beautiful, may I ask what plastic you are using, thank you.
Siraya tech purple does not cast large objects well. This is why they created siraya true blue but it’s hard to print. You can try Bluecast XOne, power resins vintage, or apply lab work cyan for large things. You can see the full list here clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
This printer looks amazing! I'm looking for something with quality print resolution, especially for intricate pieces. However, the 700+ price tag is not ideal. Have you reviewed any other printers with a more affordable price tag and a good resolution?
It’s 2mm spider leg… Due to the rigidity to make it tough when used on smaller applications shock based stress can cause it to shatter. Not something that occurs with thicker prints.
When talking about the anodes you say that the piece you are plating should always be connected to the negative, but when doing the plating you appear to have the piece connected to the positive. Can you please clarify?
I have a b9 printer and would like to try the bluecast x one v2 and was told that the black settings would work. Do you know if that is true or do you have any ideas what to do?
The magnetic stirrer is in our amazon list www.amazon.ca/shop/clearmindjewellery?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfclearmindjewellery_06FK6FGFH0V6AHJ2HDXE
If using boric acid it’s recommended 1% of weight of investment powder. But be prepared to have to use a power washer to get the castings out of the investment.
Great and informative review! I recently purchased a lot of the equipment and materials to do vacuum/investment casting (brass and nickel silver for model trains and other model purposes). On the recommendation of another RU-vidr, I purchased Siraya Tech castable resin (the purple stuff). Haven't used it yet, but reading the specs and use directions, burnout time is prohibitively long. Due to lack of a ventilation system, I have to melt the metal, burnout the investment and do casting in the garage. Have a difficult time rationalizing running the burnout oven and casting furnace (which use a lot of power) for such a long period of time. While this material is expensive compared to the Siraya Tech castable resin, I like that it burns out a lot quicker. Of course the downside is that it's over twice the price, but I guess that you can't have everything. I also like that you don't have to cure it in glycerin or other fluid. While glycerin cure isn't terribly difficult, it's just another potential mess to have to deal with. One question... It's required to shake the resin for 5 minutes prior to pouring into the tray and starting the printing process. From this info, I assume that you have to pour the resin out of the tray, back into the container in between printing runs (especially if you're only printing intermittently, rather than sequentially), so that you can re-shake the resin for sufficient mixing. Is that correct?
The one thing that will be prohibitive for you is the size of model that you’re casting. For people that are casting miniatures there are actually select resins that you can use well printing a solid model. You might have to consider doing some holliw printing. Great resins that are candidates for larger items with a 6-8hr burnout includes Bluecast XOne , apply lab works cyan, power resins vintage, siraya tech true blue. Per the video and guide we made monocure3d BURNAWAY does need to have the full 12hr burnout when casting non jewellery sized models. Many castable resins you need to remove from the resin vat and pour back in the bottle if left for more than a few days before doing your next print. This is due to the specific type of fillers that you find in castable resins. Asiga, Bluecast, and Monocure can all have visible separation after a few days. So definitely mix your resin well to avoid printing errors.
@@ClearMindJewelleryif you don’t mind explaining your burnout schedule for power resins? ( I’m using their dark resin btw) I’ve been sticking to their suggested burnout and it’s a painful 12 hours
We prepped 100 pairs of ear weights for a conference using this tumbling process. If tumblers aren't working for you I would recommend looking into different tumbling mediums.
The traditional way is a spatula and alcohol flame very inexpensive however take a bit to get the hang of it. I would recommend this machine above others as PMC supplies, Pepetools, Foredom all have more expensive options than the Arbe version by $30 or more. You can look at battery powered versions that are 1/2 or 1/3 the price of the Arbe unit in this video. I would look at the form of the tip and how you can work with it before purchasing as they do have a different build and usually smaller working area.
I'm super surprised you guys didn't ultra sonic the rings inbetween swapping the mops out. Do you not worry about cross-contamination of the compounds onto the higher finish mops? It's all i've ever heard when watching polishing videos! Great info though on all 3 videos, super helpful. I'm currently self teaching everything. I'd love to be able to chat with you guys further on some casting issues with my gold I'm getting. You guys have been saviors for me learning!
Not sure if we mentioned it or not. There’s lots of little things that often don’t make it into the video for one reason or another from only using your buffs for one metal at a time because they can be refined with your scrap, or the ultrasonic thing between compounds, or steam cleaning. All of which could have gone in here with a million other facts. It’s best to clean between your compounds for most projects but for simple stuff in a beginner shop I’m not going to stress about it. If you’re having issues you can either look into our coaching calls on our website or our RU-vid membership program which also has coaching options
Are there physical locations i can look for to learn investment casting i want to dip my toes in but everything seems like moving out to a vocation school
Learning opportunities depends on location. I would recommend doing a summer class or workshop on a weekend with a practicing jewellery to first see if it's something you want to spend more time doing.
We have videos deep diving each part of the process from wax carving or 3D modeling to polishing and finishing. We also have a recommended tool list clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list ru-vid.com/group/PLJ5braxcEk8xc9fBVIEw3g0p7k9zIfUnR&feature=shared
It depends on your workflow. It's great for detailed models, soft materials, and really brittle materials. For chunky models in a semi springy resin Dan has a really bad habit of just ripping the supports of lol. But if the material or the model can't handle that we use the Saber.
You can get a wax tray if you want to protect the bottom of your kiln. However if you are casting from 3D prints the likely hood the material makes its way out of the flask is low. It generally burns away to nothing in place.
Power Resin told me recently to heat the Dark resin before using and it did fix my bed adhesion issues. Be sure to have an extra bottle to heat just the amount you want to use to avoid heating the whole bottle of resin… Does anyone thinks that the power resin Dark is being used up faster now than the earlier versions?
