Part time Farming on a 140+ Year Family Farm. Come and join me in my video experiences of our 140 year old family farm. I'm a computer programmer by trade but I grew up and still work on the farm. I publish videos on Honey Bees, Cattle, Chickens, Pasture Maintenance, Vehicle Maintenance, and just general farm life of the Hobby Farm.
I just finished the shooting and it cuts.. barely. I should have the video up in about two weeks. I’m editing the final part of the model M now and part two of the sickle bar is next.
It's good to see it running! I wouldn't worry about it, use that B&S engine until it fails and replace it with a 420cc Predator. Same engine, different stickers. They're all made in China now. A good 16HP K341 Kohler engine would be a nice upgrade. A cast iron block Kohler will outlast the sawmill.
Reed wire buranttat co n es from charging plug on a t xt e- go 2004 I ts in we iring harness w/ white & bla C k wire in harness where d I es it h ook n I up too white with red wire
I’m not at my pc but I looked it up on my phone. The service manual says 3 1/2 Qts. I’d post a picture of it but apparently that’s not an option on RU-vid. I agree that 3.5 gallons make A LOT more sense. Maybe in the fall, I’ll change it out and see for certain. Also, there is no filter in the hydraulic system. 🤨
We had a 1950 M. Nice little tractors. Ours had an adjustable front end. Yours does also. That’s a nice addition. Most of them I’ve seen have been a non adjustable axle. One drawback to them is they are hard to get on(pretty much all the small tractors back then we’re). We got rid of ours and got an H John Deere. The M are originally positive ground 6 volt. Starter doesn’t care if it’s positive or negative or if it’s 6volt or 12volt.
This one has a ‘repair’ done on the front axle. I plan on widening it in the future but I do not look forward to it. I bet it is going to be all junked up.
That’s not true at all. It all depends on the make of the pistons. My A makes way more power with aluminum pistons than it did with cast iron. Compression is a lot higher on the aluminum ones.
I have a hard time reconciling the material of the piston making a difference in power. The only thing that i can come up with is, maybe, the aluminum conducts heat to the coolant better/faster. Heat is energy; energy is power, but I have a hard time believing that you could tell the diff. I suspect that the difference in is the shape of the piston or the position of the wrist pin. I've worked with various steal, aluminum, and ceramic pistons. They all have their oddities, but I have found that their geometry is more important when it comes to power, but I could be wrong.
Why would I want to use Aluminum Pistons?? On a 2 cylinder engine, you want weight to keep inertia through the RPM cycle. That is why they put a VERY heavy flywheel in it.
It depends on the electronics of the voltage regulator. I’ve not researched the GM one wire ( really three wire ) regulator as I’ve not had one since my 84 Camaro so I’m not sure if it could operate in a positive ground orientation. Point is, I agree with you in principle; I’m pretty sure that it’s negative ground. Thanks for the comments! I appreciate the feedback!
but man let me tell you what, if you can get the tires to hook up AND keep the front end down, it will pull. The two cylinders fire one right after the other (120 degrees apart not 180) that combined with a very heavy flywheel and 4x4 bore and stroke make it a little powerhouse. Also on my list of things to revive/restore is a four disk turn plow. You'd never think that it would pull it but I saw my grandmother clear ditches with it in the 70's.
My brother's TXT wiht Lithium tops out at 24. My RXV (which has a 3 phase mother controller) tops at 21 like it always has. The motor controller sets the speed but I do get more acceleration out of it.
Well now it's in. It's only about 1 MPH faster. But the torque up hills is way better. And off the line is faster. Charging time is incredibly faster. Well worth it. I'm on the fence if I should put the motor in and go bigger wheels and lift kit. It's a 2013 EZGO. I see good deals on used ones already with lifted with nice wheels. Then I just pay for the motor and lithium battery.
@@MichaelJosephJr934 Personally, I'd add bigger wheels and tires. My RXV is at stock height with 20X10 - 10 tires. My brother's cart is a TXT with a 4" lift (I'm not sure about the tires). Mine is much nicer getting in an out but his can go place mine can't plus it is a bit fast due to the tires.
you use a lot of transitions. Id look into L and J cuts. I like them a lot myself. Not that i been using them in recent videos. Phone editing is killing me.
What's the difference using 1 48v (51v LOL, whatever) vs 4 12v lithium batteries if the end net result is 48v anyway? Seems that 4 12v batteries end up much cheaper that a single large 48v battery?
The difference is in the BMS (Battery Maintenance System). If you have a number of cells (or batteries) in series and put a charge on them to charge them up, some cells (usually in the middle) will not get to a full charge. This is due to internal resistance of the cells themselves and/or the connections between them. Now when you discharge the battery, the cells that had a lower charge are discharged even lower than before. When the charger then tries to charge the battery back up, the cells that are at the upper end of the charge get over charged. This cycle continues until you exceed either the lowest threshold of the battery chemistry on the undercharged cells or exceed the highest threshold of the battery chemistry on the over charged cells. This example is of what is happening in each battery. (A 12v battery is made up of 6 cells. Roughly 2v per cell in a lead-acid battery) When we expand that single 12v, 6 cell battery out to 4 batteries, the failure probability expands beyond the realm of possibility into the realm of probability. The Lead-Acid chemistry batteries of old don't have a BMS for several reasons. Cost vs battery life, robustness of the L-A chemistry, ans so on. I do however know of a few people back in teh day that built their own BMS systems and extended the life of their L-A batteries but in the end, due to the fact that each L-A battery has multiple cells internally, they still fail. Any modern battery design will have a BMS inside it that monitors and maintains each individual cell. THE BMS (depending on design) will either boost the voltage on a low cell (top balancing) or reduce the voltage on a high cell (bottom balancing). If you put in 4 12v lithium batteries, you will (most likely) have a BMS inside each battery but you do not have a BMS between batteries. You will still have to rotate the batteries, have individual chargers, or some other method for maintaining a proper charge balance. You will also have interconnect cables. Without the acid spilling around, it will not be as bad as the old L-A systems but an additional concern none the less. 4 lithium batteries is better than 4 L-A batteries but in my opinion not as good as a single 48v battery. Maybe I'll do a video explaining this in more detail.
@@SCHomestead damn brother, that is quite the detailed explanation, very much appreciated! Thank you for taking the time to write it up, exactly the information I was hoping for to help make the decision.
THIS BATTERY…DOES…NOT…NOT…NOT….. HAVE BLUETOOTH …DOES NOT… OR….Of it does the company he’s been holding out on me for over 1 1/2 years… The local golf cart supply vendor seller dude guy… even stated ..( 1 1/2 years ago that…) A) “echo has been promising Bluetooth for a year…”… and that was 1 1/2 years ago… and 2) when I called EcoBatt directly… and asked about the Bluetooth promise … that rep said… uuuh. Yeaaa…. About that…umm.yea… we keep evolving out batts and BMSs so for now the Bluetooth software… is waiting while we settle in on a design.,,,,,, I have an EcoBatt 48v AKA 52v 105 amp battery… It’s ok… $2600… and I didn’t get the mounting bracket to drop in to my EzGo so I had to mod my Batt frame… Five months ago… the batt went into a coma…. Nothing …. DOA… Between the vendor and Eco… they paid shipping both ways… and sprinkled fairy dust on it… said some incantations and threatened somebody’s puppy… Battery back… working ok. But… when the batt was returned it came with an “ updated “ state of charge meter and a new cable… the batt end of the cable was the same cannon plug but the meter end was different… so I had to commit rocket surgery to remove the original Eco Cable and replace it w the all new granite counter tops… no that’s Joanna Gains… she says ALLL new granite counter tops on every show… Why not…. Yea these counters are ok so we’re throwing in a 19’ bass boat… Battery fixed..works ok New State of Charge Meter New cable because the original wasn’t compatible. Wife happy… so I can play my drums..
so glad I found this. video. thanks for sharing your journey. I'll be doing the install of this kit for a friend. overall, the kit doesn't look bad but, that lack of an instruction sheet is pretty crappy. also, knowing about that blue wire is a seriously huge help. the question I have is this... where did that blue wire originally attach to?
@@WillMV8893 that blue wire originally attached to the charge port. hooking it to power allows the motor controller to shift out of park. figured this out as we were doing the install on our own cart. also, the charger has a communication plug that goes to the gauge. if you don't hook i tup it won't charge at all. the instructions don't say anything about hooking it up and even say leave it unplugged unless specifically instructed to hook it up. if you look into the charger and find documentation on it, you 'll see it's required. hope that helps.
Yes. Originally it went back to the charge plug to prevent someone from driving off with the cart plugged in. I'm planning a video of the tear-down of the plug itself to show how it works as there is VERY little info on what that is and why.
@@SCHomesteadI've already completed the install on my buddy's cart. we even pulled the tray to clean all the corrosion up. it really looks good now. the blue wire hookup was [thankfully] a non-issue when I got to that point. the major gripe I had was the CANBUS data line from the charger to the battery/meter cable. it's really annoying that they don't give better information. again, thanks for the video. it was truly helpful.
Where is part 2? I liked your first video. Not to many people actually do action videos of the repair. People tend to just do them stupid update videos with the "so far completed" work. I hate that style videos.
No Issues. It’s running great! I’m work on two videos to follow up. The first will be a ‘follow up’ video (go figure) the second is going to be a ‘range test’. Still some tech issues to work out to make the range test measurable.
Doing exact same ting to Rxv. Blue wire😩. Problem I’m have is the solenoid is a fricken clicker. What size solenoid do you have and what else did you run to battery terminals? Think I might need to switch out solenoid but not sure that is 100 percent the problem.
As a eco battery dealer, the lack of instructions is on purpose, as they expected only professional installations, great product, there just more geared towards the repair shop or golf cart dealer than general consumers
This was the best. 😅 does SC stand for South Carolina? I went to buy some more deeps from a guy a few weeks ago. While I was talking to him and looking at his hives one of them started to swarm. I told him one of his hives were swarming. He said it was orientation flights. I continue to watch as bees poured and showed him which hive it was. Then he agreed as they began collecting on a branch 70’ up. 😂
Hi! Yes, the SC stands for South Carolina. Bees are deceptively complex critters. As soon as you think you understand them, they will prove you wrong, usually in a publicly embarrassing way. 😂
Thank you for this. I have a couple of questions. First, where did you get your Eco Battery? I have an RXV with a plastic battery bin, and my supplier did not include or say anything about a mounting bracket. Second, where did you get the documentation? I have zero documentation about the install. I do have the EZGO service manual, but nothing about the install from Eco Battery. Any help is appreciated.
I got mine at a local Cart shop (R&R Golf Cart in Seneca SC). If you go to the Eco Battery site, under Products, they list 'Batteries' and 'Bundles'. I'm not a rep for them but I think that the bundles have the mounting bracket, plug, gauge, etc. on the product page for each battery it has a datasheet (not too useful) and a quickstart guide (somewhat useful). I emailed the company (they are actually quite responsive online) and asked about the 'supplemental guide' that is mentioned on page two line number 5 of the Quickstart Guide. They sent me a computer rendering of the installation bracket and it orientation in the battery tray. It's not very informative but it did point me in the correct direction. If you have any question, let me know. I may not know the CORRECT way to install it but I know how I did it. 😁
Thank you for the response. I ordered mine from an online store in SC and they were apparently given bad information from Eco Battery rep. I sent the reseller your video and he immediately sent a bracket my way (which I have not yet received). Once I am able to properly mount the battery, aside from lengthening a couple cables, I'm hoping to be able to use the EZGO transformer not have to rewire the cart to install the Eco Battery provided transformer. 🤞
Just to be clear, I didn't have to re-wire the 12 volt circuit because I used the old voltage reducer. I re-wired the card because I had some corrosion from the old lead-acid batteries that had to be removed and I didn't like some of the short cuts that the factory made. --Mike
Hi what voltage do you get on the green and black that come out of the reducer and is it 12v positive green and 12v negative black with white stripe. I can’t seem to figure these wires out and my cart is exactly the same as yours
The green wire is +12v and the black is negative/neutral. If you email me at the address on the About tab on my channel, I'll email you back the little schematic that I have for it. (It was on the side of my voltage reducer)
It never dawned on me to cut them at a 45° until I saw it in a RU-vid video. The video wasn't even about chickens it was a car restoration video. It was just in the background of another shot. When I saw it, it just clicked. 🤦♂️
LOL I had to look that up to see what it was. If I'm right, it was a gas powered ATV kind of thing. I determined a few years ago that I was moving to electric where ever it made sense. I wish I had gone to the electric golf cart YEARS ago. With the LiFePO4 batteries, life is SO much easier.
I also have a 2014 RXV, and just ordered the ECO Battery 48V 105Ah Skinny Lithium Bundle Kit. Looking forward to your video on installing your battery. You may be the first (and only) video of this battery into a EZGO RXV - so no pressure - but.......
The battery is in and I’ve been editing the video. It is a bear. I have soooo much footage that it has become very difficult to build a coherent story from it. I will get it done but it is a challenge.
It's very warm today in the upstate of South Carolina. I'm feeding them and even though I didn't put any Lemongrass oil in the sugar water, my neighbor's bees have still sniffed it out. Luckily I still have my moving / robbing screens on.
It's very warm today in the upstate of South Carolina. My bees are out in force and I'm feeding them so they are very excited. If you look close at the hive in the foreground, there is a bit of robbing going on as well.
