As a auto mechanic of 40 years my OCD is killing me watching this video. So you don’t need to clean the backing plate and lube up the contact points? Great video though
Thanks for this video. I replaced my tensioner last summer on my 3.8 Galant with a OEM NTN tensioner and mine makes this noise when in drive at idle. This is the only video anywhere that addresses this.
The good information to take away here is, that long part is the fusible link block which should be checked if there is a situation where there is no power on the outputs or car does not start. Bypassing it should only be ever be done for a quick test AFTER resolving the issue that caused it to blow in the first place IMHO.
I’m having a issue with my isl9 when it’s idling. I have no issues when driving, it’s runs great but at idle it sounds like it’s missing and turbo start surging. Can’t figure out the cause and help
Just an FYI- on a 2021 M340i Xdrive , the battery is a 6 volt, 190 mAH ,#6833994-02. Just pull down the plastic cover and then pull the headliner down gently and you can access the battery. No screws need to be removed. Before ordering a $90 battery, I would suggest pulling the old one and testing the voltage first. Ours was not a dead battery issue , may be moisture from a leak around the sharkfin antenna from having a poor wrap job on the roof.
Everything looks good ,with the shoe/lining replacement - however In my experience the old drum going back on is a mistake.Unless you measured the drum with the proper micrometer gauge, and found it was within service limits. on a typical 15.5" drum anything over by .090" should be replaced and anything from .120" is scrap and will not be legal. will result in a "high cam" and weak braking force and performance. Also drums are almost always cracked from excessive heat, so that is also scrap. In my opinion its worth the $90 for a new drum .
Agreed except Drums are $250-300 here in Canada because we don’t know how to control inflation apparently. So yeah good idea to change out only after you check with a micrometer. I agree on your measurements as well - replace anything over .090” worn but a note that .120” is not a DOT/CVSE mandate - rather its on the drum manufacturers wear spec (which yes is usually .120” from what I have seen).
I have almost similar problem no throttle when taking a sharp left cel with come on with code 1242 on and off anything i can do to fix that I already changed the pedal
Thank you for your great information here. Would you please advise: I get 16 on one and 32 on the other solenoid. Does that mean the valve is finished? Thanks again
That is about the stupidest feature that could be but on a truck, it retards the transmission from getting up to speed….as if they really care about your safety…..keep them spending money buying sensors which is very expensive…play the American public like fool …as usual.
I would say did because I didn't get the code after this however I just spun the rod bearings, so trying to see if I can save this engine. Never ends with BMW 😔
