Carbonfiber Fabrication with 3D Printed Molds. Using modern tools like 3D Scanners, 3D Modeling, and 3D printing to save cost on the mold making process.
There's a command in Rhinoceros called "Contour" that allows you to make all the surfaces easily in a few steps. I think that in 3D Max there should be too.
Ohh another tip is to fold the peelply over itself instead of cutting it, you as I know that those freaking fibers can get under the tacky tape 🫣🫣 just a spray of tackspray and fold it.
honestly I usually do, but this is so simple I ddint bother lol. But ya def would take a some time away from the layup process and every savings is profit margin so def agree.
My little oven goes up to about 130f beofre the heater turns off for about 10min and fires back up due to its sensor. So it goes from 90-130 back and forth. I usually just leave it for 10-14 hours depending how late/early I infuse.
So for the medium cure I can pop it out after about 10hrs in the over. Maybe sooner but dont risk it. With slow I susually like to give it about 14-16 hours to be safe. Again maybe sooner but I just dont want to take any chances.
Aww Thanks Jeff! So far these have been going well. I actually sold a set today which is nice lol, make some money back. But yeah, learning process never ends. Just like our CGI stuff 🤣🤣🤣
@@poltdesigns if you infuse same level or above, you will have gravity influence. It is like when you have to remove gas from your car tank. Put a hose in, suck on the hose up to a certain level and quickly put the hose in a canister. Gravity will empty your gas tank. You wan't to avoid this at all cost in infusion, because you might end in over infusion. Rule of thumb, small and midsize parts that are on a workbench, put the bucket on the floor. How I know that, I work in a power windmill company for +20 years
@@bremershaper I completely understand and agree. I am not sure if my video is misleading or not. My resin is on a tripod below the height of the mold/infusion source. I then have the part angled about 35 degrees upward with vacuum line up top. So unless I am confused it seems I am infusing from the ground up? Appreciate your advice I am just a bit confused here thats all.
Have you tried fusion360? They have the ability to import and convert to a useable model with very little user interaction. As long as your 3d scanner is decently accurate, you can import and export a mesh with the accuracy of your scan. If you want to upload the scan data, I can attempt it and see how it turns out.
Do I normally just use regulard epoxy. This is a first time I am making a heatshield so will test and see how it fails. I plan on putting heat tape on the backside but not sure how much it will help or not help. Only one way to find out! :)
Why not printing a counter mold just for placing the layers of carbon with some spray ?, I little spray the carbon layer , so the wave will not move alone, and you can cut it more easily
@@webreakforsquirrel4201 so I actually do use the putty or filler if I have dramatic gaps or serious issues with prints. But if its to use it for removing layer lines than nah because by the time I add my primer layer all the lines are gone. They actually are gone after about 2nd stage of resin for me.
Great work, love your parts from the fb pages. Have you tried using uv printing resin for the coating process? I tried on some parts but not on infusion molds. Might make it a bit faster of a process
@@rekynw3869 i have not. I dont have any either so dont really wanna start buying more things to test with knowing this works lol. I tried using vinyl ester resin last week and ruined my part/mold 🤣
@@poltdesigns great to know about the vinyl:)) I have some uv resin on hand from the printers so might give it a try to see if it seals the parts well enough. Keep up the good work
Would a kitchen oven from Amazon work well as a shop oven, or is it better to DIY an oven for use? I'm only building for myself with carbon fiber in two categories: ultralight hiking gear and electric longboard gear. I'm in the process of building a carbon trailer to be pulled by my electric longboard. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think a kitchen oven would work just fine. Its all about curing the resin. You can also just cure it at room temperature it will just take longer. Hope this helps.
Does that mean that if I leave it at room temperature, it will cure enough to reach a temperature resistance of 150⁰c? Because after just the molding process, carbon fiber composite heat resistance is around 80 to 100⁰c.
Thanks for the great video but seems like this is waaaay to time consuming. Nowadays with all this AI this should be done with a click of a button inside the scanning software.
@@DanielSchweinert im sure its coming soon! I know the einstar software has something already but my concern is proper mesh flow as well as having edges be accurate which sometimes the scan doesn’t pick up correctly due to budget scanner. This def is an annoying process 🤣
@@poltdesigns Yes for sure if you have to do 20-30 scans a day this is no fun at all. When I see what is already possible with AI (behind closed doors) this should be just a matter of time until we see parametric scanning in the public.
@@DanielSchweinert omg, I would never want to deal with optimizing that many scans lol. I just do a few models here and there, actually most times I make my own designs for my cars so I dont ever retopo, but since my buddy wants to recreat the exact same engine cover in CF he asked if I can do this for him. Def not going to do this again for a while 🤣
@poltdesigns but his right though having a high rest 3d scan it's worth it...just for a time managing project... and these scan some are approximate 15k
I watched all your videos Aj! Will always give credit where credits due and your content has really helped me get started with this workflow. Only thing I think I dont do like you do, is I actually use the USComposites thin resin for infusion lol. Seems to work great thus far 🤣
@@poltdesigns I’ve actually used it for smaller infusions in the past so you’re not wrong there. But since we have a specific infusion epoxy for large parts I just use it across the board for infusions.
I have a tip that will make your life 10x better. Use freeze spray before removing the gummy tape. It will leave no residue and the tape will come off in one clean piece. Thank me after you try it out. :)
@@poltdesigns trust me, i ve been in the carbon industry half of my life. I dont leave it for anything. I use kalte spray from weicon. Idk if you can find it in the us but it s available in europe
@@scurtudarius2051 Thank you!! I just ordered a can. Not the one you use but another freezer spray thats also labeled as "Mould Release". Looking forward to trying!!! Appreciate the advice! <3
