I will be bringing you occasional DIY videos and tips to help with some projects and repairs based on my own experiences with fixing or creating things.
The thing I came here to learn was how to get the belt past that retention cage. I wish you showed your method. Still...knowing that it can be done may be all I need. One side of the cage is held on by a clip. The other side has no clip. So far I haven't found the right way to get the cage to drop out off the way after I remove the clip and push the metal rod through the hole. I confess that I have resorted to strong language
Like I explained in the video, I pulled the belt down carefully. I did not disassembled the cage because it looked impossible. The part where I pulled it down did not need to be recorded because it was just a simple act of wiggling the belt through the narrow space downward, slowly and carefully. It took some time to get it off but it can be done. You repeat the process in reverse to put it back on.
I have like 8 old riding mower that are all working great, one of them has the lid under steering wheel and I think it’s a Murray I bought new many years ago and it’s like new still 😊
Great video thanks but i think i did sonething wrong. All together . But its engaged when i turn it on, without pushing the engage handle forward. Can you tell me what i did wrong?
@@cindynapoli7530 it’s hard to tell without seeing it. Did you disengaged the spring from the blade lever? If you did, did you reattach it? Is it in the right hole when you were putting it back? If this is not the problem, then it could be a bad blade safety switch. I have another video that shows you how to check the safety switches. Check video “Murray riding lawnmower will not crank or click-How to troubleshoot.”
@@Chocaluvr thanks I put spring back in 2nd hole not sure if thats the one it was in, then released the level handle. ill try to put it back in lock,, disconnect spring, reconnect it then release lever lock. then i'll watch your other video but it was engaging before I touched it. thankyou I will have to figure out where I wemt wrong. But it's cutting the grass just fine.
I cannot believe this is your first time. Spark Plugs and Coil are not a picnic with this engine. Was looking for a video and boy did you nail it. Not only am I impressed, but because of your fantastic video, going to have my 16yr old daughter do the repair. Thought it might be a bit much for here. But you set the bar!!! Fantastic Job!!!
I know what you mean! It took me 3 days fighting with it. Remember to loosen the nut like I showed in the video. Try soaking a rag with WD40 and wrap it around the nut overnight. Some people have suggested using a torch to heat it up.
@@Chocaluvr I soaked it in wd40 overnight but still couldn’t remove it. But I went another way and removed the two bolts on either side on top of the egr valve and was finally able to lift off the intake manifold but it was surely more harder. I had to loosen the black metal line on the left though because it was blocking the left edge of the manifold. I saw the next morning that there was tons of orange/pink oil on the ground that came out of that line. What is that line and is something I need to worry about?
@@adtynkr I believe that's a power steering line you are talking about, there's also a vacuum hose there if I remember, but anyway, check your power steering fluids and all the other fluids when you put everything back because when you start removing hoses, you'll have leaks.
@@Chocaluvryes you’re right! That’s my power steering fluid all over the ground. The power steering fluid reservoir is empty. Seems like the line going down into the steering pump is bent and leaking 😢. This is turning into a nightmare.
@@adtynkr I’m sorry to hear that. It’s probably easy to replace by checking junk yards in your area for the part. I too ran into my nightmares when fixing things. It happens unfortunately. 😞
I really appreciate the pace at which Chocaluvr speaks! It's a steady pace so I can understand each step she explains. Also, she doesn't "talk down" to the viewer yet doesn't take for granted I know more than I do. It really helped that she explained, from the electrical diagram provided, several ways to trace wiring to different safety switches, all of which may need to be tested for their continuity. From the start of this video, Chocaluvr has a disclaimer about not being a professional electrician or engineer, but she is an excellent teacher and knows her stuff!
THANK YOU. I never would have got the spring off without you. This video is better than the actual Murray video as far as being helpful. THANK YOU SO MUCH. Seriously Thank you.
1998 Murry 42506x92 Riding Mower AND Tecumseh 17 HP - Models OHV17 AND 204606B (H) AND starts and stalls out 5 seconds later Any HELP Appreciated? Thanks Jasper
I would start with the simple stuff. If it starts, then dies, it is most likely fuel related. Get rid of the fuel in the tanks and use fresh fuel. If it still dies with fresh gas, then check your fuel lines and filter. Ethanol will clog your fuel line and fuel filter. Replace the fuel line and filter. Next would be your carburetor. It could be a clogged carburetor. You can clean it but it’s best to replace the carburetor on an old machine.
Hello Chocaluver, THANK YOU for responding and the help!!! I tried all of the options that you mentioned such as replaced fuel, filter, and cleaned the carburetor but she still has the same problem that it starts and a few seconds later she dies as if she is not getting gas. I have a petcock installed and checked fuel flow through the filter and it flowed just fine. In fact, that is how we easily drained the old fuel and used a non-detergent fuel (Recommended by local fuel supply company) and same results. After reading additional information it could be the Fuel Shut-off solenoid attached to the carburetor or better yet, as you mentioned (THANK YOU AGAIN) the carburetor. We are down to the carburetor which has resulted in a challenging search as they seem to cost about a Fin (5 Bucks) to a C Note (100 Bucks). PLEASE provide your thoughts on a price range for a decent carburetor? Fifteen bucks seems cheap and may not last and a $110.00 dollars at Jacks is on the high end. Please know that we plan on keeping her as we believe she still has some service life in her. Thank you again for all of your help! Jasper
Most mowers have the front slightly lower than the back about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. It prevents the back from recutting the front. If it’s a big difference, you would have to lower the mower deck like I showed on the video. There’s a bracket with a knob holding the deck to the mower on each side that can be loosened. Once you have the mower on a leveled ground losen the knob, the deck will adjust itself on a leveled ground, then you can retighten the knob and lift the deck back up. It’s hard to explain without showing you.
What is the order of the ignition coils/cylinder? Cylinder 3 on my 2006 Montego is misfiring so if I don’t have to remove the manifold that would be awesome lol. Great video by the way I atleast know if I have to remove the manifold I’ll know how thanks to you
I hate to tell you this but if you have the same engine as mine, your Cylinder/coil 3 is under the Upper Intake Manifold. You’ll have to remove the manifold. I suggest you replace all 3 coils while you’re there because when one goes bad, the others follow. I replaced all 3 coils on my car not just #3.
After mowing with my old mower for many years, there was a period of adjustment. It seats higher but I like the almost zero turn. Motor is powerful but I still wish I had my old mower. I don’t like the design too much because the gear shift lever and mower deck lift lever are on the opposite side. These new mowers are made of fiber glass. My old mower is a tank, solid metal everywhere. I don’t consider this a genuine Murray in my honest opinion.
Just bought a used Murry lawn tractor to mount a snow plow blade on. I don't need it to mow grass, so I want to take it off. This video is just what I was looking for to assist me tomorrow when I take the mower deck off. Thank you Dear.
This is also applicable to the Ford 500... the Mercury's brother. When working well, I really love my car. I had over 100k miles on the factory plugs, so I set out to replace them as maintenance.
Try coating it with RP-342 military grade wax / cosmoline coating. The forums say it lasts about 2 mowing seasons. I'm going to try it. I'm getting tired of messing with it and touching up the paint every six months. I saw one guy had his galvanized. That's a thought.
Chocaluvr if your gonna drive your Murray around with your deck off you gotta do 2 things your front deck rod the rod that holds the front of your deck please take that out and set it aside because if you drive your Murray around and you forget to remove your rod you can bend it and jackknife your tractor that won't be good. Find a way to secure your pto cable your blade engagement cable so it doesn't drag on the ground and gets damaged and destroyed.
Thanks again for the tip, but I always remove that rod when disassembling the mower deck. I don’t usually drive it without a deck, but if I do take out the blade assembly, the rod stays off. Trust me, I’ve been servicing my own riding lawn mower for the past 15 years and I feel that it’s common sense not to leave any cables or rod hanging loose and dragging them on the ground.
Hey Chocaluvr I'm Brendon when you reinstall your deck face your pins backwards cause most of the time you're driving forward and if you go forward when your pins are facing forward they pop out your hangers come down and that won't be good but when you go forward and you face your pins backwards if they hit something they'll push in not out take note of that.
Thanks for the tip but I’ve never had any problems with the pins the way I place them. I have been doing it this way for 15 years with my old riding lawn mower.
I replaced throttle body last year. and just recently put in a new egr last month to get rid of a p0108 code. No light for a month. Now i have p0402 today. Sigh... i heard that if i clean intake manifold it might fix it. Ford 500
It sounds like the EGR is still the problem. It could be something as simple as carbon holding the EGR valve stuck open or a temperature sensor. You can try cleaning the EGR valve & replacing it’s gaskets to see if it clears the code. Check to see if it was installed correctly and there are no leaks in the vacuum hoses. When they replaced the EGR, did they check the EGR pressure transducer? Some of these things you can do on your own before spending any money on replacements. Good luck!
@@Chocaluvr thank you. It was me who installed new egr. I thought i did it right. Afterward, since the battery was disconnected, it reset cars memory, naturally. The light never came back on, until today, over 30 days later. Also, a strange thing, 7 monitors are ready on the car, but the final one hasnt been ready yet. After a month of driving. This has never happened before. It's disheartening to fix an issue only to get another. Garages don't wanna work on the car, so i do it myself.
@@c.518 go back to your installation to check for leaks and visible carbon pieces that can be cleaned out. While you’re at it, clean the throttle body. They get dirty quickly. 👍
@@Chocaluvr thanks. Will do. I just returned the 1 1/16 wrench 2 days ago at the autoparts store. That egr bolt is wild. Thinking i will never need it, but also low on cash. I think i jinxed myself 😅
Ma'am you are the queen of the silver dollar!!! Like others I took my deck off in April and it's now August and you have the only video that shows (and by a woman I might add) how to remove the deck and basically re-install it too. Much appreciated I liked and subscribed. Keep em coming. Thank you again. 😊
thanks girl i have that exact mower but didnt know till now what year it is plus you narrowed just about everything down for me 😁🤩ps are you kin to smokey yunick 🤣🤗