I just want to know an efficient way to get the seal and thermostat pressed back in. I can install an AC system break it with nitrogen pull a 400 micron vac , install a high efficiency furnace faster than I can put a thermostat into a GM thermostat housing.
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view!" Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam." Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!" Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..." Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!" Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky." Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction." Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment?
Hi .. nice video, bro .. I will change my thermostat ( vw cabrio 2001) and i found two differents models or desing .. one its like the thermostat in your video and the other one is like shorter and dont have the second thin spring.. questions ? is the same funtion ? its better flow cooland ? Thanks
Yeah I just replaced my fuel filter and the next day I started having thermostat issues so anyway, it will be really hot to steaming with showing zero temperature and sometimes it will show running temp with no temperature so, what I'm looking to do since I'm mad maxing it is just replacing the thermostat with nothing and YOLO
@@blairnewbold7602 replaced for 195 degrees thermostat but still open when is 225 degrees and is always half of the gauge temperature when is hot goes to almost 3/4 of my gauge and fans kit and ho back to half
Is that thermostat having dual function? How do you know without actually having the water pump at hand? In this video at this point you see what I mean. When fully open to radiator direction the inner end of thermostat closes the "bypass circuit" completely: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_HclvBmwWgQ.html I don't know yet but I'm working on it because I have to study it to flush and replace 1994 vento 1.8 1H2 ABS engine water pump and thermostat. Is that engine having dual function thermostat. Currently I believe it does.
@@blairnewbold7602 I did replace water pump and it was very easy job. I know now tstat has normal dual function. It is just a tip for those who have similar vehicle. The 1994 Vento(Jetta in US) is the most diy friendly car there is despite the location of thermostat at bottom.
I have been losing coolant on my reservoir way too fast like after every drive. I see no leaks, No overheating and radiator with hose/clamps just newly replaced. Can i get your opinion on my issue. Driving an ‘09 civic
is it possible that the thermostat is stuck open, but the car heat up fine, but just takes several minutes longer? that's what seems to happen to mine, and I have not check engine codes.
@@blairnewbold7602 i am pretty sure it's at least partially stuck open. When turning on the car and as the temp needle is just coming off cold, I can feel warm in the top radiator hose. Wouldn't you agree that should not happen until it's much warmer? I'm searching now for a thermostat, and they seem to be hard to find for the car I have....
???? With brand new fan clutch, water pump, temp gauge, radiator, and bypassed heater core, I can run my 73 Dodge 318 motor without the thermostat and it stays cool just fine where it peaks at low operating temp, but as soon as I put a thermostat in (with spring facing 👇 bottom towards block) the motor warms to mid level operating temp nicely at higher RPMs but overheats when RPMs are at idle. Also shoots WAY up over max operating temp. as soon as motor is shut off (even with brand new thermostat from O'Reilly's at 180°F recommend rating ).
Yes, I was thinking also, check your, "WATER PUMP" as well, like on the "perpeller", make sure it has a , " SCOOP - STYLE" FINS, that moves the coolant more efficiently, not the style that is like a , " MOLDED - STATUE", LOLO - 😂, forgive me because it's kind of hard to describe it but if you look at that "FINS " they're very small and shallow, not deep enough, where it's harder to move the coolant, Thus, to have optimum - " CIRCULATION".... I forget the name of the brand, but it's very aftermarket, keep a lookout, Also, check your coolant MIXTURE, & use - "distilled water" - - not to city water... Good luck, hope this helps you...
I have. 2010 mini cooper and I've Changed the thermostat housing, water pump checked the core plug it's there and there's no smoke or smells but still overheating can someone assist me
@@blairnewbold7602 thank you but 295,000 miles on a 2010 Chevy HHR, it was only a matter of time. No leaks on the engine or anything . She did me good and proud. I put 250,000 miles on the car.
Blair Newbold thank you so much for a detailed response. Is there a way Troy could look at the listing. It’s definitely in my price range and I would like to consult with you. I’d really appreciate it! My email Riat gray at g + m+ ail dot come
Blair Newbold Id love to buy the car, and it’s something I’m able to buy right now (cash), but the resell value is going to be terrible. Gotta wait another 6 months! Thank you for answering my questions
@@blairnewbold7602 I understand that. Really strange times. Well it's such a rare car so anything is of interest. Service of the Electronic Hand Brake and changing brake shoes maybe? But really anything would be interesting. I have one of few pre production cars aimed for the European market. A my12.
Not sure if you will read this. Just bought an 06 mini manual transmission. Not SuperCharged. Now I got all the fluids drained such as trans and radiator/coolant. I thought that would fix the problem of me losing coolant but it seems to suck up the coolant. No signs of over heating yet..stays half way if not just below the half way mark. Where should I take it in..I was thinking about taking it into a mini dealership and asking.
Blair Newbold ok cold started this morning without any ease. Yesterday I had topped of the coolant. This morning it was at the halfway mark. Currently letting it sit and run right now with a piece of cardboard underneath. I pulled the cardboard out and notice 6 droplets of bright green coolant. I may need to go buy some jacks so I can get under there and see.
very nice video - i have a 2012 with no visible coolant leak and took it to get blue test - but it was negative for HG leak - no engine codes - no mis fires - just losing coolant and no leaks - what tool do you use for pressuring overflow reservoir...? can you provide link - astro sells a universal - avail on the A store.
harleyJune I used a coolant pressure tester. Kauplus Radiator and Cap Test Kit Cooling System Pressure Test Kit Radiator and Pressure Cap Test kit Coolant Pressure Tester www.amazon.com/dp/B074PPXFXP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yaSEDbQRZR2WT. Try this link. I have an adapter that fits the mini coolant expansion tank that I bought from the snap-on dealer that visits the shop.
harleyJune those have been known to leak/ seep from the thermostat housing on the drivers side of the engine look for puddles of coolant that form on top of the transmission. Feel free to comment again if you need more help. I’ll try to find that coolant expansion tank adapter and post that part number info.
harleyJune I found the adapter. Stant 12032 Threaded Radiator Cooling System Tester Adapter www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKTJZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ciSEDbDXK6087
there can be leaks from coolant lines, heater core, radiator, oil filter housing "incredibly common" failed coolant overflow bottle, thermostat housing/gasket, water pump, water hard pipe at the rear of the engine, any coolant seal not mentioned & so-on a basic sign is white continuous smoke from the exhaust.. if its a really bad head gasket failure it'll be like fog "literally" another sign is a milky residue floating in the coolant overflow & under/around the insides of the oil filler cap.. if you had none of the above & just lost fluid it'll be a leak somewhere.. "just takes a moment to look around whilst the engine is running etc"
@@malp6280 well - the car is now at a mechanic that works on imports and reportedly more knowledgable than I on mini cooper - so recap - the only issue was coolant leak - not detectable in smoke, wet floor boards, under engine all the usual suspects, pressure test revealed normal operation - no color change - - and the mechanic has not been able to reproduce the issue - but now - iot has developed a gnome that wants to turn on the alarm at random.... I LOVE THESE LITTLE things but this one is getting to the end of my patience - new battery because there was a parasitic draw - light in door....after alarm went off....sounds like mice on wiring harness - or water in ecu - but all check out and no nests or frayed wires - AAUGH!!!! rats !!!!! as charlie Brown would say -
i just bought a 2010 mini camden edition for $1500 Canadian mint shape with brand new tires and wheels owner thought the block was cracked but i did research and it is the head gasket car is worth about $9000 here i am thinking a few thousand for the head gasket i scored it
Jerod Tucker if you were going to just replace rod bearings it is possible but this rod journal is damaged too bad to just through a set of stock sized rod bearings in. The proper fix would be to remove the case half (bed plate) and remove the pistons and crank so that it can be machined.
Thanks. This is a long shot but do you know what an acceptable amount of wear would be. For example if the crank was .005-.010 under specs would I be right back where I started?
some of these replies are funny!! its a early mini fitted with a supercharger & a top mounter "standard intercooler" air goes from the air filter to the charger throught the intercooler & then into the engine, the intercooler is feed air via the bonnet vent which cools the charged/compressed air running through it into the engine like any intercooler set-up early mini's had fully operational bonnet vents for that reason, the later spec one's ie R55-56 onwards the vent is virtually sealed up, however the intercooler on later models are located below the radiator at the front of the car
@@jackbailey4228 unfortunately wrong, its a basic top mount intercooler, its not a charge-cooler, which requires a independent water pump & a further water radiator to cool the circulating water.. this the early mini's have a air to air intercooler.
In my experience its 100k give or take a little bit. Typically the cylinder head cracks next to the timing chain for some reason. Its a Brazilian made engine that has very very poor quality. Odds are if you buy a second hand one of these with a headgasket failiure youll likely have a cracked cylinder head to go with it. The bottom end of the engine is okay though.
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