@72442conv full disclosure, the black part is the HF tool and the red part is a "duck head mod" I bought off Amazon. I paid about $60 for the HF part and about $80 or $90 for the mod. Still, for the cost and the footprint, I'm satisfied.
Excellent modifications!!! The pro plug plus the reinforcements make all the difference. Thanks for listing all the changes at the end. It is a great start.
@@rogfromthegarage8158 it's hard for me to discourage, and any car guy that has one is extremely fortunate. But if space is a true premium, it may not be ideal. For some, it will enhance your space. Only you can decide good luck!
If you cross your safety chains then it creates a cradle for the tongue in case it should come loose. Without the cradle the tongue can dig into the pavement or ground and actually flip the trailer.
@@t45-i8c thanks for the comment. I should have spelled that out more clearly. If you look carefully, my chains are pre-crossed. I don't ever uncross them, so it looks like I'm hooking the in parallel, but it is deceiving in the video.
@raymondmunoz1094 this is the style switch I user and modified an enclosure for it. www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71007-220V-Paddle-Switch/dp/B00KPEEPAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c4XeMEagTRBg6vpKVhdDXIkEZf-YMYWj28lif7VvFys-QruObRguc20fSOixpIPlXdQZ4oEfivwqPEy4GFlWwvSKTujflze0fGKP04PtTgVaxoT7rYgX6NCjE_WUSZZ4dQiZogyDrPGV6hblWaByXWQxx0Q09Xdrl4LNCk_igCQNnfjZvMm4o3gT2WlNQIdJ4FJoJPHkRLY25DNABC62Dg.2zBlaAKZD6THJzxSkOg9-E4C94B1DncWf8p2BUOONlI&dib_tag=se&keywords=shutoff+switch+240v&qid=1723645458&sr=8-17
@PaulsProTips thanks for the quick response How did you wire the start/stop switch to make it work with the lift? Isn't the switch single phase and the lift is 2 phase?
@raymondmunoz1094 I live near Philadelphia where there is a part of the city that actually has 2 phase power. Typically though, there is only single phase and three phase. Single phase can be 120v with just a hot and a neutral as well as 240v which is two hots - sometimes with a neutral. I ran 240v with 10/3 wire from a 30 amp double poke breaker. The 10/3 is 3, 10 gauge insulated conductor wires with an uninsulated ground wire. Most 240 single phase applications don't require a neutral, but if there happens to be a control circuit as part of the piece of equipment, it can ve needed, which is basically why I configured my set-up this way. Three phase systems commonly are 208/230v and 480v. There are some 277v applications too, but honestly, none of these would be common in residential spaces. Hope this helps!
Paul, thank you for sharing your trailer knowledge. Your modifications are brilliant, some (or all) should be industry standard. I particularly like the rear jack system for changing tires. Can the ProPlug be installed without re-wiring the entire trailer?
@matthewvanselow1979 thanks so much for the kind words! Yes, you can cut or remove the factory trailer plug and terminate it right in the ProPlug box. One criticism I've read is that PP harness is expensive. You can also simply add an second e d to the trailer plug you've just cut off and have an inexpensive solution! I wish you well on your trailer update.
How would you address the flash rusting if you could do it again? Do you think spraying it down with brake cleaner (if you wanted to paint the block) or a lubricant (if you're leaving it bare) might help?
The money you spent on these upgrades could have been spent up front for a better built trailer in the first place..There are better built trailers out there than the Big box store trailers.
I do have some more robust trailers, but this is by far the easiest to manage. I can easily lift the tongue and walk it around my property. It hauls a golf cart great and have logged over 100k since this video was made. There are jobs where this isn't the best fit, but many where it is and I value it for how often it is the right choice. Plus, this video was my first on YT and has paid for the trailer several times over!
www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJN4RG1?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_JJ0EJ8B19VCSHC3HHFWV&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1 I modified the drag chain a bit just to enable it to be installed easier and right at the lift attachment flex both directions.
@@PaulsProTips The greaseable axles bushing used in the pulleys is a great safety feature of Advantage Lifts that sets them apart from those that used the failure prone sealed bearings. Farm and heavy equipment manufacturers have been using this system for 100 years.
I use a convex mirror on the front drivers side post to make sure my wheels are lined up when driving on the lift because no two cars or trucks are the same. Also you may need a floor covering mat to keep oil and grease from staining the concrete.
I'll be doing the convex mirror this weekend! What size did you use? Currently I'll use cardboard when I think there is a chance for things to get messy, but maybe a matt is better. Can't always predict when you need it and having something there most of the time could be smarter. Thanks!
I have a couple other mods a friend of mine made to his too. He put a wheel chock on one of the runways for working on his motorcycle and detailing it. Another thing he did is make a ramp and bridge to go between the runways to put his riding lawn mower on to change his blades and clean under the deck without removing the deck. That is what sold me on buying a four post over a 2 post rest his soul.
Do you know how to work on lifts? I've been having a problem with mine, it goes up smooth but it bounces around when it's coming down then gets stuck about a foot off the ground.
Thank you! We are going to build a square drop camper/gear trailer and are going to start with a new 5x8 trailer. Definitely going to reinforce the tongue and I'm going to check out that pro plug system! Being in maine, it would be nice to have that on our trailers to keep everything clean!
Got my aunt and dads 302 that’s been sitting around for years had mug dogger nest in the cylinders tore it down and I’m planning to rebuild it from the ground up all new internals it’s gonna be fairly pricey got I wanna bring this block back from the dead thank you
Oh except for the bag I think you had it as I said I did look good.got one going together before to long I may try it on mainly for cleaning insides for cooling ability and then try to clean out regularly after it’s running with CLR or maybe even keep some in it
Not sure how I could have been any more selective on where the solution worked. You may have a point, so can you recommend a technique you like to use?
It has held up great! Full disclosure, I put a lot of miles on this trailer. Probably 200k at this point. A few months back I actually wore out the coupler a d it cracked because it had gotten so thin. The trailer came off the ball, and the chains kept it attached to the truck, but when I stopped, the plastic box came in contact with my rear bumper. The plastic lost, but there wasn't a scratch on my truck. So the plastic box was a sacrificial material. I put the same box back on. The old one was water tight and perfect for several years!
Using the bag with water putting pressure are is genius. What I have to say I enjoyed the most was you and your Pops doing something cool together. Did a few engine swaps with mine when he was alive and made some great memories, even tho there were a few wrenches thrown and I won’t say by whom lol. Keep making those memories bud👍🏻
Thanks so much! Yeah I really treasure time spent doing car stuff with my dad. I did appreciate how cool shooting the video with him would be. Lucky it worked out so well. Really appreciate the comment!
It isn't specifically trailer wire. It's wire I had laying around that is good quality. I'm involved with pumps and controls, and this was just surplus wire from a job.
Brilliant! I was about to slather some Naval Jelly on some bumper brackets because I only have a gallon of Evaporust but now I'm going to use a trash bag and a 5 gallon bucket!
Great mods indeed + I'll add few ... 1. UNDERCOAT trailer frame, steel or aluminum with some oil undercoating only (Fluid Film and such), take care of rusted frame above deck as well. 2. Weather proof (Thomson sealer) top and bottom of wood deck and do it as often as necessary. These two things are the MOST important ones you'll ever do to extend trailer life. 3. Install telescopic stands in the back of trailer, work great for loading/unloading heavier loads + when storing, you can lift the trailer off the ground.
They are some great tips too! I appreciate the feedback. I regret not doing a great seal job on the deck of this trailer. It is a 2008 trailer and I bet by the 20 year mark, it will require a full deck replacement!
Hard to deny a winch on a trailer as one of the most effective mods you can do! I've done a lot of sketchy stuff with a farm jack. Never got hurt, but they are extremely capable and a bit dangerous. Two great suggestions!
Lower the tongue using the tongue jack. place Jack stands under the rear end. Raise the tongue using the tongue jack. Add jack stands on the wheel to be changed side. Lower the tongue. This method may require 4 jack stands, although it can be done with 2.
I may be alone in this, but I pre-cross the chains. If you notice at 3:08 the chain on the left side in anchored on the right side of the trailer tunge. I need to clarify that when I do another video. I really appreciate the feedback and hope your Comment helps people get it right- because my video obviously left things a bit unclear. Thanks man!
I think they both would. Here was my dilemma. Not all the areas had the same amount of rust. So after the rust is taken care of in some areas, but not others and I leave it in to get all the rust- what happens to the good metal that continues to be exposed to the acid? I was afraid lifter bores would have excessive oil clerance and cause oil pressure issues. I know the Evaporust ONLY eats rust- so it felt like the safest solution. I acknowledge it may not be the cheapest!
Yes, sir! I hear vinegar too works. Most processes aren't completely even. So when rust is all eaten up on one section, but not in another, do you let the process keepgoing and sacrifice sone of the good metal- possibly machined surfaces like lifter bores? This is the only process I know that exclusively targets rust and stops at good metal
@@PaulsProTips with certain metals, a 50-50 brine of vinegar and table salt works. like if you have a bucket full of fasteners from a project, pour in the brine and mark what they're for and come back in a month or so to reinstall. the question about metal is valid--if it's a structural area, for example, you probably want to "go down" to metal that won't get eaten away. but some will want to do a rust conversion (say, with navel jelly) instead. esp. on a restoration, where you aren't looking to eat away half a numbers-matching framerail, let's say, and you won't be blasting that particular car down the quarter mile. As for machined surfaces, if there's even a chance to pit, you might be better off machining away towards the blueprint specs. A lifter bore might get away with a hone from a brake cylinder hone, but too much clearance and you're looking at valvetrain oiling issues. but then let's say you're messing with a Ford Windsor block or a Mopar LA block. the Fords are known for lifter bore missalignment, so if you're planning on shifting past 6,000 rpm, you probably already planned on having the lifter bores enlarged and sleeved to get your pushrods to line up...or in the case of the Mopar, since it was cast for the early Hemi, the lifter bores are at odd angles and those looking for high RPM stability also want to rework those. So pitting isn't going to be an issue. but on a Pontiac block? those are notorious for not having their lifter bores cast into the lifter valley deeply enough, and a radical cam will snap 'em loose. so making them even thinner by boring and honing....
Agree! I just have the machine shop to prior to machining. I think they charged $90.00 and the block comes out looking like new cast iron. They most likely use a more caustic cleaning solution because it leaves no rust behind that I can see. It also dissolves any grease and most of the sludge.
I've been tinkering with using electrolysis with borax as an electrolyte. Do you think it is safe for the non rusted metal where clearances is critical? Or should i use evaporust?
I've seen several replies here stating it's good but I'm not sure it is such a simple answer. Thay was precisely why I chose the Evaporust. I knew it would only eat the rust. The electrolysis seems to be strongest in areas directly in line of site between the cathode and anode. The areas not as direct and hidden can take longer, white the direct areas will continue to errode the good metal after the rust is gone. I think at best, it matters how much rust and how the vat is configured. The Evaporust avoids all those liabilities.
