I’m always trying to keep busy. I enjoy helping people and learning new things along the way. I really do believe if you try something new that you’ve learned on RU-vid once a week you should definitely be given a college degree after four years. If someone ever asks you “Where did you go to school”? You could answer, “I went to U-Tube”
Hi friend, I've seen your video a thousand times and I'm following your steps. I'm doing the same job on my 2012 RAM 1500 5.7 hemi and I need a favor, if you don't mind, what torque did you use on each screw of each piece when assembling it? Please, I can't find the torques for my RAM and I've had my RAM disassembled for almost a month now, ready to be assembled, but I'm not risking doing it until I have the exact torques down to the last screw. Thanks and sorry for the inconvenience. Good day. PS: I'm not a mechanic, I'm an amateur!
@@francomartin5388 Thanks for all the views! Sorry to respond so late. It took about 25 to 30 hours of labor for me. I suppose that includes stopping to look up things on RU-vid. So I understand your concern. Thank god we have RU-vid! I am a carpenter by trade so this was a challenging project but a welcomed change of scenery. Their was nothing much more than your basic mechanics set of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers and a few torque wrenches. The only tool I “borrowed” (free rental) from advanced auto parts was the harmonic pulley puller. Which I needed to put three nuts bolts and washers on to remove the pulley. The fuel line disconnect tool was kind of a specialty tool but it was off the shelf at the auto parts store for less than $10. The pneumatic tools are handy but not necessary. I looked for torque specs in many places because each list I saw seamed to be incomplete but here is a link to a video that is helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0vaA4WLzjOU.html Make sure you pay attention to weather it is foot pounds or inch pounds If you have any questions, just reach out. You got this!!!👍
I don't get why you had to pull the heads to do the cam and lifters??? Also why remove the upper cover (cooling) on the front of the engine, why not just the lower timing cover. It looks to me like you made a heck of a lot more work for yourself. I have done cam and lifters on a few other engines (v8 & i6) but have not done the 5.7 specifically. Im also wondering why you can't just change the lifters out without touching the cam, if there is squat for steel in the oil then shy not??? It's worked for me 3 times before with no issues.
@@gabugabu1976 the lifters are bolted in under the heads. You can’t get the cam out without removing the timing cover. And clearly the cam shaft needed it be replaced if you watched til the end.
I got 300,00km on my 2019 ram 1500 classic so far no issue every 8 to 10,000 km oil change valvoline 5w/20 synthetic blen daily protection not the most expensive oil
Where are you located ? Got a 2017 ram 1500 sport, fixed the eng manifold exhaust leak a few weeks ago had 3 broken bolts, but if i ever get the lifter tick might come your way lol wish you had a step by step detailed vid I do it my self bit its prob too long for yt youd be a life saver for millions tho lol
I’m going to assume that was a question. Yes you don’t have to remove the fan to remove the serpentine belt. However, it was absolutely necessary to remove the fan to take the camshaft out.
That is something that weighed in the back of my mind for months after the project. If I were to do it again yes I would probably change them out. The reason I didn’t do it, however is because I didn’t wanna have to remove the oil pan and the oil pump to remove the timing chain. With all that being said, I got Lucky. The truck has 212,000 miles on it today. I don’t wanna jinx anything but it’s still running fine. Thanks for watching!
Apparently have to do all this just to retime the engine and I'm just bummed things are in fast mode and can't tell whats being taken off and apart lol
I wish all I had to do was change all the coil packs. Here’s the next video.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xJAwTKAmK5c.htmlsi=cvlmq0r2xN4DSq2v
Sure. It is important to remember that mortar and grout will wick water. So I would be sure to put a bead of silicone down the middle to create a stop. Does that make sense? Also scuff up the existing curb to give the new thin, set some tooth to grab onto.
@fieromike1 I was going to use silicone between the 2 saddles on top of the shower curb. I don't want to have to break and remove the existing one, I'd rather just add one to it so I can get a little more height to the curb.
Yes, I have a 4 x 4. The only way I can imagine it may be more difficult is if you plan on removing the engine. Also, maybe consider I did not remove the oil pan but that shouldn’t be any more difficult because it’s four-wheel-drive. Personally I think the project was a lot of fun. Yes, difficult but fun. Good luck with yours.
Can this code be removed with a code reader? The CREADER VII+/VII that I have reads P0358 but when I try to erase codes on the P0358 - it doesn't delete. Any thoughts?
@@fieromike1 went all out and performed a hard reset for four hours. It dismissed the code and the truck started right up smooth as silk (so far). I'll drive it and monitor things for the next few weeks just to be sure there aren't any more hiccups.
When you began with, "That's never a good sign."... I began laughing... and I am still grinning about it... I will try this and see if the code changes to the next cylinder... "Hopefully I won't screw this up..."... my famous last words...
Good news for me ! No shavings on the VVT solinoid!! Im fact he sais the engine was very clean oil etc ! Anyway cam and lifters ate installed along with a new high volume oil pump, water pump, timing chain set and belt ! And he just fired it up and says running good thank god ! As i said mine is a 2011 Big Horn, I love my truck and as bad as this is there is no way i am paying 50 grand for a new truck ! Whem mine is in beautiful shape . Im just glad its over! Very common in these trucks unfortunately . I had 143k when the lifter went , it was cylinder 3 and just as yours it was only one lobe damaged, looked exactly like your cam !
Wow, that’s great to hear! Mine is a 2011 Big Horn also. Unfortunately, I wrecked it last week. Nobody got hurt but the truck has so much damage that The insurance company is going to total it out. I think I’m going to keep it and make a few more videos of the process of fixing it.
@@fieromike1 So sorry to hear that but thankfully no one is hurt ! My truck runs excellent! I am shocked , it's absolutely quiet ! What a difference! So happy to have it back . It was the right decision to repair it ! And again , glad your ok ! Look forward to more videos ! Stay well and stay safe ! Peace 🕊️
this is an incredibly in depths video covering the steering column. My issue is I put the key in my 88 fiero gt and I started it...but I couldn't turn it off. Couldn't turn the key at all actually. unless there are significant differences in the steering column from 87 to 88, I should be able to follow this just fine. I would like to be able to keep the keys I have but it seems like the best way to go is to replace the cylinder and accept that it'll need new keys too
Hope you cleaned your block out. All that metal shavings everywhere. Most people just get a rebuilt engine. But there's a design flaw in the block. It's that tube that's between the crank and cam. Doesn't allow oil to properly lube the lifters. Especially If you're idling a lot. So no matter what. It's going to happen again.
Nope I didn’t clean the block out. Almost 4 years later and The truck has an additional hundred thousand miles since the camshaft was changed. The.” design flaw.” that you’re referring to is the crankshaft not slinging oil up to the top. The real flaw is in the needle bearings on the lifters. Chrysler now has a new distributor for the part so hopefully they’ve been properly case hardened. Remember, this only happens to less than 4% of the 5.7s. I think that a “no matter what it’s going to happen again”!statement is kind of bold.
@@fieromike1I’m glad to see this comment. I am looking at buying a 2011 with 114,000 miles and there aren’t any service records of cam or lifters being replaced so I was very hesitant. That 4% stat makes me feel better, even though I might replace the cam and lifters for preventative maintenance 😂
On this video you already have the chain removed from the cam. How did you get the chain off the gear? Did you just pin the tensioner and gain enough room? I have done these before and always have pulled the pump.
I have to ask please, i noticed you never took the vvt solenoid out right inder the intake , to see if any metal shavings were on it ? Mopar says if there are, you need a new engine! I also have. 2011 5.7 hemi and same job is needeed, im worried about metal shavings! So did you just not worry about that ? Or did you check and see ? Should I worry ? Or just do the job ! Thanks ! Mine has 148k misfire cylinder 3! Thanks again and great work !
Yes, I did off camera. There weren’t many shavings on it. Under the advice of my mechanic, he said to look at the camshaft first to determine the amount of filings that may be in the engine. Since mine only turned out to be One Lobe we determined that it wouldn’t even be necessary to drop the oil pan or change the oil pump. The truck has 205,000 miles on it now and knock on wood is still running fine.
@@fieromike1Great thanks so much ! As I said I have to do this job , I really love my truck and I just hope I'm doing the right thing . Since I only have an issue on cylinder 3 I am hopeful it's the same and it's just that lobe . My friend who is doing it for me said not to worry to much that once the job is done we will change the oil a few times etc to be sure we get anything out . But again , thanks for this video ! So helpful! By the way I am also a licensed carpenter a d have had my own remodel business for quite some time ! But Carpentry and mechanics are two different things for sure ! This is an intimidating job for sure and as much as I love to fix stuff myself , I feel this is a bit over my head ! One last question...What method did you use to keep close track or each and every bolt and nut and screw that came off ! That alone scares me lol ! All the best to you ! And I hope I have similar results! Thanks for this again !
Exact same issue at 135K miles - PO304 code - the exhaust rocker was seized - lobes were shot. Had to replace the entire top end (cam, lobes, lifters etc). Root cause is apparently oiling up top end takes too long after cold start up. Using 20/5 synthetic is recommended. BTW Ford & GM have similar issues especially on their diesels.
