The rubber EPDM sheeting comes with a sort of talc/dusting applied, I'm guessing for easier handling. The question is.... Should this be swept/washed off before applying glue? Will the talc negatively impact the adhesion of the glue? Thanks in advance :)
Ordering and delivery from Rubber4roofs was a breeze. Delivery was quick and when promised. Fitting went just as smoothly. As a complete novice I’m amazed at how easy it all was. The only problem I had was the speed the glue went off due to it being a hot day. 100% happy with it all.
Question about rubber roofs. My roofer has the seam of rubber roof landing right in the middle of the valley. The roof slants from each side and the valley is where a seam is. I didnt think this would be ok or am i wrong?
Hi @dax525 this is the back plate for the drip trim. This is installed prior to the membrane and once the membrane is fitted the front plate clamps the membrane in place. Here is a link to our video showing the installation: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2U1VuqSfNa4.html
Hi @ironjohn5914 Whilst we agree it is easy to DIY on many simple freestanding buildings, you can't beat the experience of a trained installer on more complex projects with a lot of detailing work required such as Skylights, Pipework and Joins etc.
Hi there On the side edges we use the Sure Edge Kerb trim. This has a 25mm upstand built in to divert water toward the gutter edge. They also connect to the Drip trim using an external kerb corner to provide a nice finish.
Hi ROOFER NONE. If you still can't make sense of it, you can go for a course in order to learn how to lay it properly, otherwise what brought you here in the first place?
I’ve recently used the skyguard membrane on my shed. Which had 2 joins across the membrane which is totally fine as I don’t mind how it looks. However these joins were incredibly difficult to lay flat and glue down, they kept rippling. We allowed the membrane to relax in the sun for an hour as recommended and in the end we ended up with a large ripply bumps along the joins which you can push down and spring up again with your finger. The edges are also loosely glued down probably due to the lack of contact adhesive? As the skuguard kit only comes with water based glue. I suppose your meant to pull it tight over the edge and then pin it down with the wood/metal/plastic fascia boards. Overall I’m very happy with the roof, it looks fine and more importantly it performs fantastically and has zero leaks much better than felt or roofing sheets. But will these bumps be a probelm down the road or are they purely cosmetic damages in which case I don’t mind. Would love some feedback.
Hi there! Thanks for your purchase and taking the time to provide us with feedback on our Skyguard membrane. In regards to any creases, they are purely cosmetic and won't affect the integrity of the membrane whatsoever meaning your roof will remain watertight. They should also become less prominent over time. If there are any issues however, don't hesitate to contact us.
We've just had a rubber membrane fitted but the roofers didn't put contact adhesive on the drip baton/gutter edge. The result is a slight rise on the rubber trapping water on the flat roof. Should adhesive be used on all edges?
Hi there, On a flat roof, there should be a slight fall towards one edge. On this edge you would install a drip trim. This trim allows water to run off the edge that water flows towards and into the guttering. I hope this helps.
Hi there, You can quickly and simply get a price for those roof's using our kit calculator! Here's a link: www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/classicbond-calculator
As you said, if it shows aesthetically where is can be seen it should be writing down(otherwise not an issue) - ours has been fitted with the writing on the upstand of our roof lantern :( Is there anything the writing can be coated with to hide it? Or does it need to be replaced?
Hi Jimbo Thanks for watching! The one piece membrane will not be impacted by expansion gaps, it will sit over the top of them, there is no need to fill them in.
@@Rubber4Roofs I meant between the kerb trim. It says you leave a 1mm gap per meter on the trims butbthe kerb trim is meant to be stopping water getting past.
@@Rubber4Roofs thank you so much for the response, my shed currently has felt on and I was under the impression that the rubber should only be applied to the smooth side. I'm going to scrape the felt off and then turn the boards over, you saved me about £140.
After year of applying rubber roofs 1: in the winter, it takes far longer to tack off 2: important you allow air flow through to let the gas dissipate. The gas is heavy and will sit close to any surface. This is more of a problem in gulleys or pig/dog ear corners. Best way i have found to eliminate these issues is to use an air gun on warm setting or hot air from a distance to allow circulation in the area. If thats not an option, the longer you leave, the better. I dont mean hours, but leave it to dry off and get on with something else. Do not rush it or it will cause problems. This is only my opinion and not manufacturers. 👍🏽
You need to lap seal your patch’s people also you need to clean the area with a cleaner before applying your primer and your patch does not need to be that big that’s a waste of material you only need to have 2inch of coverage around your whole
Agree on the lap seal when youre done and the cleaning and the patches. Where im at need to be at least 3 inches. (also its supposed to be cut out from a 18inch roll also called curb flashing which you can make couple patches out of one cut off the roll. from firestone now called elevate roofing products.) skill isnt cheap and cheap isnt skill
