I'm passionate about CNC machining. I used to own a Euro Makers Aureus 3X CNC which is a hobby machine similar to a Shapeoko or and X-Carve. I recently upgraded to a SOROTEC Basic Line 1005 CNC which is more "prosumer". I post videos about the various projects I make.
Put about three or more thin coats of clear spray lacquer on the design before you pour epoxy to prevent the tint from leaching into the surrounding wood.
Consider memorizing the jig center as zero point of another coordinate system, for example g55. Than you can just switch to that coordinate system and tell the machine to go to its zero. The machine will remember all the values for you. Here is the best explanation i found so far. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xX0QgQEaqBg.htmlsi=Tkph-sWohblLmbS_
C'est un superbe tutoriel, comme je n'en ai jamais trouvé (ni en anglais ni en français). Question : Je n'ai encore jamais débuté de projet d'incrustation, pensez-vous que la nouvelle version Vcarve Pro 12 prenne en compte de manière automatique ces calculs ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P1nbIjlBYG4.html ) durant la conception ? Merci beaucoup pour ce que vous faites et salutations 👍
Excellent work. What kind of spindle speeds and feed settings do you use on your 1/16" bits for epoxy cutting? I seem to break my 1/16" 0 Fllute bits every time. Trial and error on numerous settings and still break bits routinely. Any insight would be appreciated!
PSA: Tapping with a hammer (17:28) is a critical step. You can see the piece shifting down. I did not do that & paid dearly. So is clamping at the entire perimeter, against the piece itself, with multiple clamps.
On your "Motorcycles" part, you effectively have a zero glue gap, correct? You drilled to the exact amount. If you can do this for part 2, why can't you do this for part 1? You wouldn't need the epoxy then. On my attempt, I left a glue gap of 0.6mm. Small enough to effectively become a glue joint
Bonjour Stéphane, serait il possible de savoir quelle résine vous utilisez.Je teste plusieurs résines en ce moment et l'humidité me cause pas mal de problème 🫤. Merci pour le partage (de vos vidéos et de vos infos si vous le voulez bien 😅)... Sam
Upgrade potentiels : utiliser une fraise de 30 pour le surfaçage Faire un topcoat en résine au lieu de mettre du vernis, ca fera une finition parfaitement lisse, on peu voir que tu as des trou et des rayures sur le résultat final Débuller la résine évitera les imperfections lors du surfaçage aussi Sinon beau travail !
What values determine the glue gap vs how much the male piece protrudes above the female? In your example I assume the 1mm glue is the difference between the depth of the female piece compared to the final depth of the male. 8 vs 9. But what values control the gap of the male piece above the female? Thx
Stephan, Thanks for this video!! I just did an inlay and I couldn't figure out why my bit was plunging all the way to the final depth. As soon as I started watching this, I realized what was happening. I didn't even need to finish watching, but I enjoyed it. Thanks again!
Hands down the best instructional video I've come across, your explanations and diagrams are excellent and to the point, every question I had while watching your video was answered seconds later, easily my new go to tutorial channel, thank you for taking the time to put this video together, I've work in video production and know how much time you must have spend filming and editing this piece, it is very my appreciated. Bravo.
Nice video. Very clear. I have been creating quite large epoxy resin inlaya and have found normal PVA glue works fine even on pine. I cut the shape/pattern, then paint with PVC let it dry then add resin. I also use a drum sander to do the rough sanding followed by orbital sanding to 400 grit.
