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Heres the reasons: 1) The floor is like the surface of the moon. 2) The car is tilted forward from your rear being on ramps. 3) You used two hockey pucks instead of 1 large pice of wood or something. 4) Also the easterly winds blow to the m=north not the west after a summer.
No hate, but a little common sense would have prevented the incident. Please don’t hurt yourself. Have someone watching you do work on your car. Specially if you are working underneath it.
This is simple physics but you can try it with something else besides your car, a heavy bin or wood plank for example. For every degree of inclination, you need to exercise more force and the stress on the lifting point is greater. Lifting the car like you did by having the back side on ramps, is an incline sufficiently angled as to multiply the force needed to lift it and to stress the lifting point of the car. The slipping contributed and aggravated the inertia, but was not the main factor.
These are not hate comments. You're blaming the failure on the jack, the pucks, the concrete, when really it's all you. Get a moving pad and get down on your back and look; don't be so lazy.
I can see why you did it, but its still wrong and user caused. Two things went wrong; doubling the pucks, and a very uneven concrete surface. Jacks move as you lift the vehicle. Think about it, the jack arm lifts, and the point of force is moved toward the rear of the jack. The arm moves in an arc, not a straight up motion. Obviously, the car will not move, so the body of the jack rolls forward and is pulled under the vehicle. That beat up concrete did not allow the jack body to move toward point of contact. As you lifted up, the arms point of contact moved further away from the car instead of rolling underneath with the travel. The force of the lift probably would have forced the jack under if it were metal on metal, but the pucks got you. Sorry about the damage.
You did everything right, except for using hockey pucks as your spacer. Spacers should always be 1 piece. NEVER use 3 pieces stack on top of each other on a portable lift unless you bolt all 3 pieces together. Those type of lifts tend to pull the car towards you while its lifting the car. Causing the spacers to slip apart. I would never use hockey pucks on a jack anyway. They are naturally designed to be slippery and slide 😂. I use hard rubber lift blocks because they have high friction and grip and don't slip. If I have no rubber lift blocks, then I use hard wood blocks because the pinch point on the car will put an indention in the wood and cause it to lock in place and resist slipping. Sorry if you already heard this before. I didn't read all the comments. 👍
Hey why not get some round bar stock the diameter and thickness of those pucks and weld them to your jack pad or have a machinist make a steel pad that'll slip over your jack pad like those hard rubber ones. Still need to solve the problem nes pas?
😂 I owned a 2008 ISF and until this day no power adders. Can’t crack the ECU is the issue to increase boost. Sold ISF because of that. No aftermarket for Lexus v8 platform unfortunately.
JACK YOUR CAR BY THE FRONT CENTER jACK POINT ON THE CROSS MEMBER…. Why the FUCK are you purposely going the most risky route? You already know its iffy from that pinch weld. Its 100% on you. PERIOD.
Thank you for the vid buddy, learned a lot. I'm sure that these guys who writes these hate comments wont see it that coming and will do the same mistake... well, it's easy to comment a mistake once you see the fail. Keep the good work!
I have an M6 F06 with DME stage 3 tune with Fabworx catless down pipes for 6 years and pass emissions every year in NY , (no spacers) 3 years ago I sent my car to TJ @ Pure Performance to have the engine forged and still passes , DME stage 3 tune , Fabworx catless DPs ,SSP spec R clutch , PG intakes and charge coolers ,JB4 for map control and Meth control , Akra full ti exhaust , running VP speed sauce 20/80
@@BulletsGarage I have one of those cheap OBD2 port system ready testers , I do get 1 X, I forgot what one ,Evap maybe , I can let you know , but I do get a green check good to go , and I pass every year That being said I had a curveball one year. I switched my tune to no burble , didn’t realize it resets all the sensors , I went to go get inspection and it failed, then I realized I didn’t put the highway miles to reset the sensors , it took a good 50 miles nonstop driving to reset them, I had a little OBD 2 tester in as I drove and it gave me the good 2 go , I’m not sure if it’s something with the DME tune, my buddy had an M6 with bootmod and could never pass , gotta be something with the tune
You might want to add that you do have high flow catted downpipe and not a catless system. People may still be having real issues with catless downpipes
Bummer, sorry dude. Looks like floor condition was root cause. Jack needs to roll to avoid side load and it wont roll on that texture. Stacking flat pucks to slide against each didn't help.
