Name is Peter, I started to paint miniatures as a pastime during autumn 2020. I couldn’t quite contain my hype about the hobby, and it’s been going very fast since then.
For me the hobby has always been a place for constant encouragement and hype. A place where people genuinely care and will inspire each other.
My goal is to add to this side of the community, share the love, the laughter and the maybe some tips and tricks.
I paint Warhammer 40k , age of sigmar, kingdom death monster, marvel crisis protocol as well as display miniatures,such as busts and 75mm figures.
By supporting me you will help me spend more time and get more gear to be able to continue doing this that I love with all my heart.
I really enjoy your video. New sub earned. I would really love to see the process of building the picture frame out to the correct depth. I'm working on a diarama with Calis and Toll from Age of Sigmar. I didn't see a tutorial for the frame on Roman's channel either. Any help is greatly appreciated. Edit: I just finished the video and WOW, the finished product is beautiful. Awesome talent my friend.
Thanks for saying so, and for taking the time to write a comment ! 😊 for this round one I actually took the plastic core of a large tape roll and just squeezed it until it fit . The back is plastic card 😊 hope that helps I know Roman have pdfs at his etsy for building them to , but don’t think to hard about it ! If you wanna bounce feedback of me you’d be more then welcome , the discord is in the video description 😊 and thanks again mate !
As a model painter getting back into it after 20 years. I found this video very enlightening and also I'm amazed how much the paints have improved . Is the fairy flesh from Vallejo more similar to Vallejo Game color or model color or even a different brand?
Thanks for watching mate! There is so many paints 🤣 I’d say they are more akin to model color , but I don’t have that many game color to compare with .
You can use oils over acrylics, but NEVER acrylics over oils. It just technically wrong. Once you started to work with oils you should use them all over till the end.
@@hrr222 heard about it but and if we were talking about canvas you’d be right but not on minis, not that much paint . It’s been proven by some great masters to mention one; “not just mecha “has proven this time and time again, it works !
@@WitnessMyMinis "the amount of paint" does not change fundamental paint properties. You cannot mix different kind of mediums just so freely. Again - oil layer requires up to one year to fully dry - and it will never do if you prevent the oxygen to come. And acrylic just do not stick to the oil surface, so the whole "construction" of layers will just break and fall off sooner or later in time.
I started painting some months ago with acrylics and yesterday I tried oil paints for the first time and I must say wow, I am a convert, instantly leveled up the look of my minis even though I am just a beginner.
Love ur sweet oils tutorial ,I paint minis in oils now for 2-3 years. Guys like Vince V. brought me into oils ,after that i joined the brotherhood of oil painter where James Wappel is a Pioneer.
Very nice set up. 😊 To manage painting in a smaller space, forces you to be very organised. Got the same experience on my painting corner here. 😂 When showing your display cabin there was a bust. Looking like a cyberpunk girl with a gun. Can you tell where its from? Looking for something like this since for ever😅 Greetings from germany
how do you deal with camera over heating? and lighting. i can get my iso under 1000. but it always makes it look like i have a light constantly over the model so the face is blacked out from shadow
thanks for the comment ! honestly never had the problem with the camera over heating , I think it might be an issue with some cams , I know I heard it about some Sony but never had the issue with my lumix. yeah you can't hunch over the mini i angle the light close to the mini and then zoom in and use manual focus to get it as crips as it can be . And it is hard to find a good angle to both paint comfortably and get good shots, the best angles I think is when you basically got the camera over your shoulder . hope it helps !
Great video. I have a bolt gun that I covered in white oil paint.... I put it down a while ago and never picked it back up. I'm feeling the urge to go back to it now and think it through. Cheers!
Awesome video. This was incredibly helpful as I'm starting to experiment with oil paints on my miniatures. What kind of finishes and varnishes do you use and how do you decided which one to apply? I'm making Black Death Guard space marines with my oils and I noticed oils leave a very nice shiny sheen to the metal armor. So, I'm trying to decide if I should go gloss, satin gloss, or just matt finished? I don't want to ruin the look of the work or oils.
Thanks Mate ! :D its really a matter of taste, if I where to use metallic + oils I would either not use a varnish at all or I would go a satin one, maybe even gloss on the metallic. when oils have dried its very resilient the same goes for metallics
Awesome. That's great information. I might just leave them as is without the varnish. Keep up the great work and I'll be tuning in to your future videos!@@WitnessMyMinis
Do you get paid upfront for all the costs. E.G you need to buy the minis and the base materials you miss for the customers? Do you get 50% down payment, How do you go about it?
@@WitnessMyMinisSo Let me get this straight, or maybe I did not pose my question correctly. So basically you have to pay for everything upfront. Do all the work, client sees the final pictures does not like your work and you lose the time and money you paid for everything. That was basically wanted to understand by asking you the question. Do I understand this correctly then? That you run all the risk of money, time and investment and the client can say for whatever reason, no thanks.
@@Lalaland.001 its not that easy , fiverr will hold the money until you've marked the work done. When you've done that you will get the money within a couple of days, if the client want to make any kind of claim he/she could do that within. that time frame and not afterwards. that said like with any kind of transaction there is some trust involved and of course you have to be able to communicate and not over promise anything . also there is an option to offer your services in installations , costs upfront if you want that to. every client is different in what they prefer, I now have great return clients that I trust and that trusts me.
So I think a purple with a white spray could have worked really well since both major elements on your mini shared the same shadow color(and purple still works ok for a gold shadow), also have you ever tried using NMM techniques but with metallic paints?
thanks for the comment dude, yeah i've tried the tmm/nmm thing , must say I really want to level up my nmm though, I have a soft spot for it when people are really good at it so I have to keep trying !
@@WitnessMyMinis oh, I'm sorry to hear about your sister. I thought it might be related to the "look up hanna" speech from the great dictator. It's a very nice piece and I'm sure she'd have loved it.
As a matter of fact I do ! ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE to OIL PAINTS for Miniature Painters ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6R6XJb85idI.html
@@WitnessMyMinis will i need a mask? I have heart and lung problems? What type of brushes? synthetic? how do you clean brushes once you use an oil based paint or an enamel wash?
13:54 the Silver and Duraluminium are very close to each other in tone and brightness. I would keep the Steel and Duraluminium and substitute the Silver for Vallejo Metal Color Chrome.
10:55 Favorite Fluor range: Golden High Flow, with close second being the Amsterdam inks. If you ever wanna experiment with other ranges, I recommend trying one of these.
My favorite paints ordered mostly by how often I use them: - Signal Black (Molotow); my preferred airbrush primer; has a slight brown tint, which is useful for painting warm colors - Any artist white ink (I have been using Royal Talens Amsterdam lately, because big bottles are very cost effective) - Rhinox Hide (Citadel); unique dark brown with a purple undertone - Metal Color Duraluminium as the best silver mid tone (basically any silver from Vallejo’s Metal Color range is great) - Decayed Metal (Scale75); beautiful dark gold metal paint - Burnt Umber (PBr7) oil paint for making washes (any artist grade will do) - AK’s 3rd gen Black or Vallejo Model Black for a more matt finish - Black ink (Vallejo); preferred for airbrushing because of it satin instead of glossy finish of other inks; usually mixed into other paints - Sombre Grey (Vallejo Game Color); great rather unique grey with a violet undertone; close to Payne’s Grey, but very opaque - Brown ink OOP (Citadel); best looking wood color I have come across - Chestnut Ink OOP (Citadel); really like orange-brown tones in general; Vallejo Skin Wash ink is also great and more importantly, still available - Kimera’s The Red and Magenta - Earth (Vallejo Game Color); great for painting weathered bone, glazed over a zenthinal undercoat; also great as a base color for desaturated leather - Naphthol Crimson ink (Liquitex); favorite transparent red paint; it’s on the colder side, without getting into the magenta spectrum - Yellow Orange Azo ink (Liquitex); favorite transparent warm yellow paint, that might look more neutral (and not specifically warm) depending on the undershade - In general using Liquitex artist ink and Citadel Contrast paints a lot; I like almost all of them - AK terrains Muddy ground; lovely texture paint; just don’t slap in on too thick, because you will get a weird texture
Really great video. I've been eying the Kimera paints whenever I'm at Alphaspel. Maybe time to pick some up and try them. One thing that would be great for a future video would be to see how the paint looks when it's dried!
tackar tackar ! =) alphaspel is my go to webshop ^^ feedback noted ! You wont be disappointed in the saturation but they dry and are very mat so if you are not use to that it will take sometime for sure .
Fairy Flesh from Vallejo on it's own is versatilate enough for 80% of skin you want to paint for tabletop. I have recently picked up their Malefic set and it's fantastic for more evil characters. As for the others, I have recently picked up 75% of the Scale75 Artist range and I am very happy with it so far, but I had to pick up so many because, well, sometimes one can feel too lazy to mix them every time 😅
It’s great set for sure! haven’t picked the other set up but I have eyed it for a future try !! I love the artist range and I get it , I started out small to but basic have them all now 😅😅😂😂
This was really a terrific video, Peter! Thank you for the effort you put into it. I love that you showed them all on the palette and also showed many on practical models.
