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Don’t use bleach!! It’s just going to make mold grow worse as the water separates and seeps deeper into the subfloor effectively drawing mold deeper and only killing the surface mold.. I thought bleach was the way to go but I learned the hard way unless it’s a non porous surface it makes it worse.. use vinegar or a mold killer product for porous surfaces
It is if you wanna keep your customers for life and all their friends and family as well.. it’s not ALWAYS about the money but if it was it’s still better to take a few hits to do right by your customers
yeah... don't be smart and cut across the floor every 6 inches and make it easier and safer or anything... wouldn't want to ruin a good time with actual production. oh, and you went from a machine designed to remove glued down carpet to a machine designed for gymnasiums... nice... there's like two other level of machine between the two a lot more suited for the job. Didn't learn anything. At least I was entertained for 5 minutes. There's a reason you're subbed by Lowe's. But you're young, so you still have time to learn how to do it correctly, then maybe you won't be so destructive as well as ignorant. Good luck!
Once that floor starts to get movement which it will in due time that leveler is definitely going to break away from the plywood. If you were doing that you should have at least mixed in a primer or bonding agent. But no matter how many screws you put in that floor at end of day it’s a plywood’s d floor and they always have movement
You can go over urthane glued enginieered wood floor. If you use underlay and float new wood, or even install laminate. Urthane glue that is a solid barrior with underlay, your not getting any moisture from slab. I checked with NWFA. But if you want to expose a bad slab go for it. Tile would be the exeption. You could screw down 1/8 hardi back and go for it.
My son did a removal that they had top coated slab,then plowed a solid layer of urthane they put down. The top coat came with it, leaving aggregate exposed. Yeah removing the floor destroyed the work the builder did to a rained on slab. Looked like1/8 of self level wet set over use of urthane glue.
I own the same machine you should’ve turned the speed down all the way to the lowest setting when the wheels are spending, you have it going too fast should’ve taken a circular saw and cut squares in it first
Definition of a naive homeowner: "Yes, you need to remove the old floor and install the new one. I will be living in the house and do not want to remove or even cover anything. The old floor goes under the island, kitchen cabinets and wood trim including the baseboards." My (contractor) response: Good luck with that.
When you tap the flat boards in, they lock right away. It didn’t work for me, could it be related to the laminate type or a different locking pattern ?
Same when I did my floors in my home. To lock seams together both the short and long edges needed to be elevated to click together. Not sure how he’s able to only tap them together. Looked up flooring and seems like the only explanation is lifeproof drop lock, but it gets bad reviews for separation. As far as I can conclude a plank flooring that only taps in does not exist. Helpful video for cutting, but doesn’t help much because mechanically click lock flooring will not function this way
@jeremyk4603 I agree that many boards will not just tap in when flat. Each video I've viewed so far ignores this problem and doesn't even broach the topic. I will look further , but on my job now I am going to cut off the the connecting tip piece but not the laminate surface, so trim off, the tongue or lip Connector only on one siade Then with one side flush, maybe the other side can tap in perhaps. I neither side taps in then I'll trim both lips. 12:16 Then I'll use a shim to hold it tight in case it shifts a little. I've trimmed the lips like that before when the piece just won't tap in on one side.
I’m 80 years old and I laid my vinyl glue down floor myself. I love my floor and I can honestly say for never having laid this type of flooring , I’m very satisfied with the way it came out. If I were a professional there’s so many things to look for or to mention to the customer before starting. In fact I’d have a clause in the contract covering the condition of the floor underneath the carpeting or any other floor covering that can ruin your day as a installer. I had built my own home 20 years ago and had installed carpeting over a cement slab. After I pulled up the carpet I seen what I had forgotten. My bedroom is 20x20 and when I laid the floor I laid the cement in 10x 10 slabs. Unseen to me under the carpet was that the slabs had not settle evenly. There was a hump of a 3/8 to 1/2 inch difference between the two slabs. I do not have excess to anything like self leveling material so I had to remove the hump by grinding it even 😢😢. Just imagine the dust😮 but I’d due it again in order to have my new floor.❤
Why builders have to install over green slabs is a lack brains. That and the genius concrete guy adds water to the pour,so it will float easier. Bad concrete work is why we need water proof glue. It's not water proof from. Top down anyway . A slab should not measure more than 4 pounds on a calcium carbide test.
I had a 2800 SF job like this a year ago and was a awful tear out! I grid cut the floor every 4 inches and used a 40lb jackhammer on a cart it took me 6 days to complete the tear out! The floor was self leveled prior to the wood being glued which meant I ended up with having large areas of self leveler come up with the old wood flooring! I lost my ass on that job but completed it for the original price I quoted the customer!
Is the bamboo you put down click lock? the way you put them together looked click lock rather than tongue n groove. Im looking for engineered bamboo specifically and most of it is click lock, and most say it's to be done as a floating floor, which I hate. Can most click lock bamboo be glued? Nice video
Thanks for the reply. I’ve found some click lock I really like from Lumber liquidators that says install method is click lock and I asked if glue can be used and they said it’s not approved. Got samples of it and got samples of some tongue n groove and they have the exact same layer on the bottom outside part that would touch the subfloor. I don’t understand why it could not be glued. I hate floating floors. Does that make any sense to you why a click lock can’t be glued but a tongue n groove with the same outer bottom layer could be?
We did not have to weigh it down the boards are heavy enough and you just have to put pressure on them as you install and this glue grabs instantly. This job did not require leveling thankfully
Not in this case most of the time we have to complete jobs in the most time efficient way possible because. TIME IS MONEY but in the case of the glue they use for hardwood floors almost if not all are water proof/ element proof not like vinyl glue down sucks but the only way around this problem to rip it up would be by pure blood sweat and tears !