Amazon had it for $44, added a $25 cherry apollo keycap set. Took me 5 days of typing to sort of type normally. Going back to my TKL was, different. I'll stick it out for another few weeks. Its possoble ill stay on this style.
Guys who´s having an issue to open the JSON fiile, I found out how to solve. (pls fix this comment) First, check if you are not plugging 2.4Ghz and USB (just use ONE USB). Then, click in authorize device. If it doesn´t solve, go to settings and show design tab and then you upload the JSON file.
First, check if you are not plugging 2.4Ghz and USB (just use ONE USB). Then, click in authorize device. If it doesn´t solve, go to settings and show design tab and then you upload the JSON file.
they feel really inconsistent :( tested sets from my friends and some of them have gaps so wide and height difference that I cant ignore. I guess its just up to whether if you won the cerakey jackpot 😩
I believe that is just the nature of the material. Ceramics have been historically hard to get consistent 100% of the time. Just take a look at your average coffee cups. They may all look the same but they are each very different when closely inspected. In this instance we closely inspect each key and if there are imperfections on one row say R3, the bottom or top row will get affected by it.
UPDATE: The replacement spacebar arrived literally a day before my scheduled upload date lol. Unfortunately, it still seems to have the same issues. If you ever have spacebar problems, it seems like the best thing to do is just to use the included Kailh Box Dark Yellow switch or some other heavy switch. The snagging still occurs but only when you press really slowly and only right at the top of the key press so you’ll never really notice it during normal use.
I personally prefer clicky switches, and my favorite so far is the Razer Purple Switch. However, I can't use clicky ones at work, so I use MX Browns there. They are the best non-clicky switches I have tested so far. I don't like MX Reds (and all the light linears) at all; they are too easy to trigger and cause many unintentional keystrokes. MX Blacks are a little too tiring for my taste, but I wouldn't consider them bad. I have never tested any other non-clicky tactile switches apart from MX Browns (excluding cheap Chinese ones that I don't count). I also haven't tested any linear switches that fall in the MX Brown ballpark (between MX Red and MX Black).
About adaptability: With enough practice, you will learn to switch layouts on the fly with no issues. There is at least one typist on RU-vid (NoThisisJohn) that I've seen who can switch between Colemak, Dvorak and Qwerty on the fly without his wpm suffering at all. And those layouts require significantly more adaptation than an Alice layout.
I've had the Cherry MX Brown for about a year in my Odin R3 and they have been great, after lubing - they really REQUIRE LUBING! Stock hyperglides are bleh, but the improvement of lubing is massive and I believe their improvement to be much greater than many other switches... ...anyways, now that I'm running prelubed Gateron Oil Kings, I don't bother with it anymore. But the browns will be my dependable backup switches.
This looks like an interesting entry point to Alice keyboard layouts, but the lack of a windows key is a complete dealbreaker for me. I navigate multiple virtual workspaces on my PC hundreds of times in a day. Not having that key would completely destroy my workflow.
Late to this 'hobby' but not sure what the fuss is about key sound. I'd been under impression it was all about the switch activation for typists. And I was just looking for a smaller 'ergo' style keyboard. But I start to understand why they ship mushy silent switches as first choice. They know someone coming from a non-mechanical keyboard would understand how they feel and not freak out. I ended up with an Ajazz and glad I didn't end up with one of these because that mode key would have bothered me. But it does make finding key cap packages with two 2.75U spacebars hard. Switch making seems like a good gig these days with hobby builders wanting to try bunches of flavors.
the CIDOO ABM066 listing on EPOMAKER now seems to have an option for CIDOO carda switches which don't seem to be silent switches, and it seems like the keycaps for that version are more conventional (although the enter text is weirdly big)
Yes, that's right. C3 stabs have smaller housings and will typically fit into plate-mounted stabilizer holes. I can't say that with absolute certainty though as I don't have any C3 stabs handy to verify.
@@CaloysKeyboardsoh btw you said in the video if i want to use durox stabs i have to cut around the holes around the plate right? Sorry for the silly question
Yes, Durock stabs usually have bigger housings than C3 stabs so the holes on the plate need to be big enough for them. Plates with holes that can accommodate plate-mounted stabilizers are usually too small for these bigger housings. I wouldn't recommend cutting the holes to make them bigger though. It just ends up being a huge hassle. You're better off just using C3 stabs or even plate-mounted stabs.
That plastic film looks like a manufacturer's way of doing the HipyoTech press and seal mod. And that would explain why the tape mod didn't do much, the plastic film is doing a lot of the same as the tape mod would.
Thank you for this video, my first keyboard uses Gateron Oil Kings, love it for home but tired of taking a heavy alu keyboard to and from work. Going to build a 2nd keyboard with the milky yellow pro, stock will be fine for office use.
I have been outfitting the medical coders around here with mech boards for a few years, you'd be amazed at how many there are who type constantly, all day, on membrane monstrosities. When I started doing this, I pretty much built with Reds unless the click was important, then it was OFC Blues. After a few didnt like the reds or blues, and wanted something that had the physical bump but not the click, well you can guess where that ended up. Since then, I generally bring 4 boards to demo - Reds, Blues, Browns, and my personal favorite heavy tactile with dual-click, which everyone hates but I love. (Kailh Box Whites are the current GOAT) Anyway, without the influence of all the BS that we have developed in the "community", when normal(ish) people who are doing a job want the best thing for that job, the overwhelming majority choose Browns.
Used Cherry RED, for years. They were good for gaming. But now I'm typing a lot on my work, so brown are awesome for it. I just forgot about miss clicks and noise level is acceptable.
Super casual here. I tried reds, blues, and browns throughout the years. I occasionally write as a hobby, sometimes 30k words a week, and I found myself liking the browns the best, as it's the least tiring for me. Though I prefer Gateron way more than Cherry MX's brown, so I daily drive that instead these days.
This part is poorly explained in the video and if you werent paying attention you wouldnt hear what to do. You will put that json file in the VIA app, the via app is a website that works as a keyboard software.
First, check if you are not plugging 2.4Ghz and USB (just use ONE USB). Then, click in authorize device. If it doesn´t solve, go to settings and show design tab and then you upload the JSON file.
Did you remove that plastic before installing switches? I found odd this plastic and shiny foam without holes at the top of it. You need to press really hard to install switch.
Browns are a typist switch and are great for ergonomics. They're so hated that they're the most copied switch. Pretty much everyone offers a brown clone. Even Glorious copied them with the holy panda. The tac bump isn't meant to be an actual noticeable bump so much as enough of a bump to make you feel as if you bottomed out the key without actually doing so. It teaches you to type softer and not bottom out the key every time you press it saving pain in the hands. Browns are legit one of the best switches. After trying several others I can't find a switch that feels as comfortable.
I buy my cap from aliexpress and most of them from one seller called G-MKY Store.. they meet my needs perfectly and they are priced at what I’m willing to pay I also have a kintec lab set that cost me about 75 euro most expensive set .. I put my money in boards don’t care what others think they don’t have to pay my food and rent
