📷 technique.reviews.inspiration 🎞 My name is Thomas Eisl, I'm a professional editorial photographer based in Vienna, Austria. On my RU-vid channel, I share in-depth reviews, guides, and inspiration for ambitious photographers. Whether you're looking to learn about new techniques, get help for a specific problem, or simply be inspired, I'm here to help you take your photography to the next level. . Personal consultations are available. Get in touch via email or social.
Hello! I recently bought the TG7. I have the LB-T01 LENS BARRIER attached to it and forgot to bring the original ring that came with the camera. Can I still use the camera underwater? I will just snorkel at maximum 1.2 meters more or less. Thanks in advance for your reply.
I'm trying to do it on my Lumix but I don't fully understand it, I bought a very expensive lens and I'm not able to get sharp results, it's like is not focusing anywhere, what do you think? Do u have any idea if it could be something expensive to fix? Thanks in advance, I could send u some samples if you want
I have a manual focussing lens Nikon pancake 50 mm f 1.8. I will start practice the techniqe of focusing and the use of distance from infinity to 0.6 m on my Nikon D800.
Hi Thomas good morning. I need your precious help yesterday the om5 arrived. I have a problem that I can't understand. When I photograph the blue sky, in the viewfinder and in the EVF all the blue appears to me with a strong banding, which makes it appear haloed in stripes. What could it be due to? Let me start by saying that I am using jpeg large super fine with srgb. Hi Thomas
I can see the banding both in the viewfinder, (with strong vignetting), and on the final photo, again in the viewfinder, or on the LCD screen. Honestly, this is the first time something like this has happened to me. The shopkeeper asks me to send him example photos. It's a shame because the camera body is light and fabulous.
@fabioinserra9981 hm, very strange. Could you send me an email with an example photo as well? Also, try a different lens. Maybe the lens you are using is misaligned / defective.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks Thomas, you are very kind. I contacted the seller, he will exchange my camera for me. I left the memory card inside for him so he can view the blue sky banding himself. When I get the cam back I'll send them to you, because I don't have a PC with an internet connection with me. It's really a shame because as soon as I picked it up I fell in love with it. This effect on the colors is really strange. I'll keep you updated. Hi Thomas, a hug
@fabioinserra9981 please do! The new OM-5 that you'll receive will make you happy, I'm sure. I am in love with my OM-5, it is an excellent tool to create with. Best, Thomas 📸
Con la pellicola ero abituato ad essere attento alla corretta esposizione, sia con la negativa che soprattutto con la diapositiva per via della ridotta latitudine di posa o gamma dinamica, come si dice oggi. Quando ho pensionato la pellicola entrando nel sistema reflex 4/3, era normale per me esporre come facevo con le diapositive, ovvero misurazione spot stretta sulle alte luci che riteveno importanti e sovraesporle giusto un pochino meno per avere ancora dettaglio. Tecnica che viene chiamata esposizione di destra. Avevo settato il contrasto al minimo della reflex E-1 e non avevo problemi anche scattando in jpg ad avere i dettagli della sposa (vestito bianco, di solito) e quello dello sposo (colore nero) se non in scene ad altissimo contrasto che mitigavo con un pannello riflettente o colpo di flash. Mi stupivo come 5mp potessero regalarmi risultati migliori di una pellicola 35mm ed anche a 800 iso dove io riscontravo un pochino di rumore, era migliore di qualsiasi pellicola di pari sensibilità. Considerando il beneficio della maggiore profondità di campo, visto che nel reportage occorre descrivere anche l'ambiente, ecco che potevo scattare ad f:2,8 tranquillamente rispetto alle fotocamere 35mm che usavo in precedenza. Questo implica anche il non dover salire di sensibiltà. Tralascio le proporzioni 4/3 che trovo più adatte nel formato verticale ed infatti gli album erano 30x40cm, per me più naturali del 30x45cm. Insomma, già nel lontano 2003, il piccolo sensore 4/3 regalava tangibili vantaggi. Oggi siamo fin troppo viziati...
Thank you very much for sharing your professional experiences - I could not agree more with your valuable contribution. We are truly spoiled nowadays, and even with the E-1, a professional could still easily get the job done. Thanks again and all the best, Thomas 📸
Great analyses! I am using a Zuiko 70-300 4-5.6 ED (FT format) with an electronic FT-MFT adapter. The weight (with FT-MFT adapter & tripod collar) is 668g which would be the 2nd lightest lens in this collection. Does anyone have any thoughts on this lens. I had very good results using this lens on a recent cruise along British Columbia's Alberni Inlet where reach was important.
I really enjoy your content, Thomas and this video is no exception. Would the built in ND / GND filters built into the OM Mkii System work in with your workflow, or easier to use the magnetic system as you suggest?
Thank you very much! The Live ND/GND feature is only available for stills photography. Due to its technical nature, it is not usable for videography - when filming, there is no way around physical ND filters. The good thing is that a set of ND filters like the ones I use is a one-time investment.
I’d get a an arca Swiss adapter for the manfrotto befree and streamline your setup by mounting the L bracket directly to the tripod. You can get inexpensive 1/4-20 to arca adapters for your smaller tripods.
Excellent presentation. I also have the 9-18 Zuiko lens, but Version 1. It is indeed an excellent lens, very sharp and light. I use it as a travel lens too as it gives me the option to take wide angles indoors.
Thanks! Indeed I do use variable ND-filters as well, they are very convenient. I just prefer single-strength NDs because of their better optical quality and bc they cause no cross polarization issues, which are hard to spot during recording (and therefore can ruin the footage). Best, Thomas
And also inreally appreciate showing all the love for OM system. Its such a great tool for anyone. Just wish to record braw and also as we all wish 4k 120fps for wildlife.
Thank you! As you've seen a few hours ago, I've just published my first video in my larger series on filmmaking with the OM-1! There is a lot to discover, it is such a powerful tool. Best, Thomas
Hi. Can you share more information about the OM1 mark 2 video features and does it record 4.2.2 external raw on blackmagic monitor? I prefer braw. Can you suggest any other external monitor for braw. Thank you. I find very less information about shooting video. Kindly share your thoughts.
Very nice presentation. I think the OM-1 makes this process much easier to accomplish. I am learning Medium Format now and that is a big challenge - you really have to work to make good images. My OM-1 II makes photography (and videography) so much easier! My OM-1 is my favorite camera.
Just discovered your channel. Good explanations. Great stuff. I bought a OM1 MII recently, owned a OLY OMD-1 MII for some years. Having shot concerts the past few months I found out that the OLY does well enough at ISO 6400, much to my surprise. I find it lacking a bit in dynamic range though. Should be a bit better with the OM. Bút one of my main considerations in not going back to FF (thought about that, having owned a D800 once) wat the new Denoise in Lightroom. With that you really do not need full frame for concert photo's anymore. I also shot concerts with an LX100 in the past. Went back to those and did the denoise. Great results. Wish Panasonic made a new one with modern sensor...
Excellent tutorial. One question, though: Why do you recommend not to apply effects in OM Workspace or other raw editors? Is it even possible to do so? (I know OM Workspace can import .oes files as presets.)
@Thomas Thank you for the in-depth review. I purchased the the TG-7, the LG-1 with the sole purpose of shooting macro photography Timelapses after watching your reviews. I love the camera but the only issue Im having is I cannot use the camera while it is charging with the cable that was included in the package. What are the steps to bypass charging? The only information I can find says the OM System TG-7 camera can't be used while charging. The camera's USB-C port is for charging the battery or transferring photos. Thank you in advance for your help!
Absolutely, the best discussion on the practical useful limits of dynamic ranges based on recorded values and their usefulness to presentation media. Thank you! I have saved this article so I can watch it again.
Ive had 4 of the 28ai-s and for sure the new sic coating on the front element improves iq and that purple cast at 2.8-f4 So i would say for sure the newer nikon starting with serial number 9 is the real deal.
The awnser is yes, it does matter a lot, even Nikon, within the same camera generation, has an entire stop difference of dynamic range between the Z6 and Z50, now imagie how big the difference with older APS-C vs new full frame get Edit: D5600 is already over 1,4 stops worse Edit2: The thing i didn't like about this video is that you only talk in peak dynamic range, it's not a realistic comparison, noone is able to photograph at base iso all the time, especially in bird and sports you need to crank it up, a more useful comparison would be to compare at 1000 to 1600 iso, that's also what i did here, i also think you're forgetting that when talking about stops that it's not linear, it's exponential, 12 stops of dynamic range is TWICE the dynamic range of 11 stops, and it's not just about being able to capture an image without clipping, it's also about noise performance, with a stop more dynamic range i can double my iso and get the same noise, with 2 stops better dynamic range i can 4x my iso and get the same noise In conclusion i am not sure if you're bias to old cameras or just severely misinformed of what those numbers actually mean Just to make the point crystal clear, when you shoot at 100 iso on a 7 stop camera, i can shoot at 1600 iso on an 11 stop camera and get the same dynamic range/noise you get
You kinda lost me by starting with "I did not watch yet, but I know I disagree" - jokes aside, I highly recommend watching this next: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uYOr6t8llgc.html It will clear things up for you regarding dynamic range. Best, Thomas
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Hi, thanks for responding, but i updated the comment in the meantime with multiple edits while i watched the video, i went through the entire video and i honestly started to disagree more as it went on, maybe you can read through the edits and give me your opinion on it
Most welcome. First, I'd like to assure you that I'm neither biased towards older cameras nor misinformed, and also I know very well what these numbers mean, which is why I published this video. It is unfortunate that you wrote that. Second, I really encourage you to watch the linked video on dynamic range. Third, there is no difference between DR and peak DR. There is just DR - and there are various ways to measure it. I think you are referring to the photon transfer function and/or SNR (the only useful metric to compare "noise performance" on various cameras) when it comes to noise, but I'm not quite sure. Be that as it may, if we want to talk about noise levels, we have to talk about SNR / extrapolated SNR accounting for camera resolution and output size. Throwing both DR and SNR (while related), together can be misleading. Also consider that noise does not increase linearly when the ISO is raised. I would not jump to conclusions regarding ISO 100 is ISO 1.600 in another camera. One really has to put the specific camera to the test and map out the SNR function (extrapolated, of course). If you got from this video that I think older cameras are better or any nonsense like that, then I miscommunicated my point - because more is always better than less. It is more about the "what you need" and "what marketing makes you believe you need". And as you can see from the video, the differences are actually quite small (leaving the D2H out of the picture) and do not really matter in practice, those numbers are indisputable. Just try measuring a scene with a light meter. You'll see that one stop more usually does not solve your DR problems. We both know that if you are willing to listen, the manufacturers will tell you otherwise.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography What i meant with "peak dynamic range" is that cameras have the highest dynamic range at base iso, and dynamic range drops with higher iso, some cameras have excellent base iso performance but don't perform quite as good at >1000 iso, that's what i meant here, sorry if that caused confusion. And yes, you're right, i used SnR and Dynamic Range interchangibly in this conversation. You're also right that iso doesn't (always) behave linearly, often there is a weird jump at around 600-800 iso, but after that it behaves linearly, more often than not this jump is small enough to be negligable, A D5600 doesn't have this jump and has at all and has a linear relationship accross the while iso range while the Z6 for example has it, for this example i just ignored this and assumed a linear relationship This "jump" i described might come from dual gain, but i never looked into this myself, i know it's common for Video
@weibrot6683 Ah yes, thanks for the reply. Lots of subtleties gets lost in these comment sections. I'd like to highlight that photonstophotos is really interesting for examining the ADC behavior of various cameras. My impression is that we are really on the same page here, it was probably just a misunderstanding. Best, Thomas
