I love this. When you talked about your client wearing only your shirts and coming back to order more touched my heart somehow and helped me realize that's the reason I originally got into sewing and eventually realized that this is what I need to do with my life. Thanks for the reminder.
Would you be able to make a pattern for this waistcoat ? I’ve been trying to find one with these specific characteristics at the collar and can’t find anything worthwhile
I'm not a professional by any means, and I'm not familiar with the process for digitizing and grading patterns but if you have a suit collar pattern and a waistcoat pattern with a lapel you can combine them, it would probably take some tinkering but secretly mine wasn't perfect either, the collar wasn't wide enough and it left a gap between the collar and lapel.
Trying to understand the point of this video other than to show that you’re knowledgeable about an esoteric topic. If you want to appeal to a wider audience, it would be helpful to provide more context or motivation behind these arcane details. I feel like I wasted my time learning about vintage Levi’s, as you’ve done nothing to disabuse me of the notion that there is nothing particularly special about them. And as a lawyer, I do find legal dramas cringe, but I wouldn’t do what you did here, because I’d be talking above my audience, and no one would find it entertaining or even informative. This is the case here.
nah boy speak for yourself I find this video very entertaining and informative, maybe that lawyer job isnt soo good for your mental health considering how negative you come off as
Hello i've rently been to Osaka and discovered your videos, I want to learn more about denim/levis through books. Do you have any to recommend ? Thank's !
Ooh interesting question, Ametora by W. David Marx and Worn by Sofi Thanhauser are fantastic, neither are entirely about denim though, but have a lot of interesting history. There's also the denim dedicated website Heddels, which while a lot of their recent stuff is behind a paywall and not as good as their older stuff in my opinion, is still great. Their article on dating vintage Levis is a great resource that I often end up referencing. Hope that helps!
This video is fantastic and exactly what I've been looking for. I've been wanting to make gurkhas for a while. This will definitely help. Thanks so much.
Very nice to watch and learn more Thank you for putting so much time into this sewing presentation Really enjoyed I hope I can improve a little more from your valuable sharing
It's a jeans pattern (trouser with a straight outseam) expanded to accommodate pleats. One day I'll make a video about how to draft that pattern but life is super hectic at the moment
I feel you. I’m a software guy and seeing computer stuff on screen is tough sometimes with all the errors. Thanks for the fascinating info on denim in The Bear.
I've watched a couple of your videos. I like it when men make their own clothes. I like how you introduce the topic and your design and fabric choice approach. You do a great job of sewing and I really like your choice of teal denim. You have the right body to wear this style. However, for all of your meticulousness, I am surprised you didn't iron your fabric to remove the wrinkles before cutting out the pattern.
That's probably the most thorough review of my videos I've gotten so far, I really appreciate it! As for the ironing, if I can prattle on for probably too long, I have a weird mixed inspiration from raw denim and what I was taught when I worked at a menswear store, with the rest being self taught so I can have these weird gaps in my knowledge. Raw denim has this sort of minimal ironing ideology because too much ironing would flatten the natural texture of the material in a way. This sort of makes sense when you're talking about denim with uneven tension (a weirdly prized detail in the denim world) that's taken right off the bolt for cutting, but maybe not as much for me with my consumer denim fabric that's been folded up and packed in a box, but that didn't stop me from wanting to be true to form. On the menswear end, the tailor who taught me a lot of the basics told me that if I ironed too much I would be forcing the fabric into a different shape and not following the feeling of the fabric. I took that a little too much to heart and also I think misunderstood it a bit. She was probably just being cautious since I was using an industrial iron with a vacuum board and could very easy shrink or stretch the fabric if I wasn't careful, but I just lumped it together with the denim ideology and didn't think on it much after. She also taught me how to shrink and shape fabric with the press, but I never went back to check on my basics so I never really thought about it again until my yellow waistcoat video where I studied up on tailoring a lot more and realized (about halfway through filming it mind you) that I probably should've been ironing a lot more throughout the entire process. Anyways, tldr, I should buy a larger ironing board lol
Amazing! What type of paint did you use? Was it fabric paint, acrylic? How will you clean it? Anyway, I've watched a couple of your vids and I've subscribed. Great work!
I used fabric paint. The first wash I did by hand just to be safe but I've since washed it in a machine using cold water on the gentle cycle. Glad you like the vids!
I just want to thank you for this! I was looking into pleats to alter some pants and I'm so glad to finally see someone point out how the extra fabric allows easy motion while the structure keeps a strong silhouette! All the other people talked about the appearance so I was starting to wonder if the ease of motion was just my wishful thinking.
Yeah it was a similar experience for me, pleats (or any other design element) has to be rooted in some sort of function. If it looks better I want to know why, and if it feels better I want to know why, even better if it does both!
I like the plaid in your original vest. Good for you for doing your own tailoring. We need more people learning this craft, even for making their own wardrobes. I suggest not using cheap waxed tailor's chalk. Use Jinbutsu brand instead. It's nice to see a fellow Canadian interested in sartorial clothes
(Your tangent around the 12:30 minute mark) I totally agree! I’m helping my partner build his capsule wardrobe right now, and I’m really surprised to find so many people who value where and how our clothing comes from. Additionally, I love the artistry and perspective you have on your craft. It’s absolutely beautiful.
Thanks so much for the kind words! Definitely working on more stuff but these videos can end up taking a lot of work and my free time isn't what it used to be :(