Wouldn’t it put undo stress on the carrier bearing, arching up or miss alignment , pinion bearings , u-joints and possibly the tail shaft of the transmission or transfer case ? That’s why they say too thick of grease may cause the slip yoke not to be able to burp trapped air. May just need to get a new driveshaft that has the splines properly treated for ware ? And, new all together ? And then if it still does it ? There must be an alignment issue ? Rear end rolling too far, one way or another, when accelerating ? Something ? If you have a buddy with same shaft, swap them ? I had a ‘77 Chevy 4x4 with a busted rear spring pack making my truck walk offset going down the road once. Trucks do weird things.
You know you put out a good video when 10 yrs later, people are still watching and benefiting from it! I just used this 'zip-tie method' on a large, cruiser, rear wheel/tire. Worked great! Thanks!
I tried this method and it works great, He forgot to mention to look on the tire for the dot which shows the heavy side, and line it up with the valve stem on the wheel.
Tried this with silicon spray and cable ties -- it worked !! my 705 shinko rear tire got installed with no damage .... and nice green balancing beads 🙂🙃🙂🙃🙂🙃
This method actually helped me a lot only problem I'm having now is no matter what I can't get air in the tire the valve stems are new and get in but the little section on both side of the tire keeps releasing the air wont seal. any suggestions?
Been trying for around four weeks now, yeah four weeks, [ 30 mins every so often ] got the bead done, got the zip ties on but can i get it over the rim no!
Just so folks know when torking the rocker arms you have to bring #1 to TDC then tork the intake 1,3,4,5 and exhaust 1,2,7,8 then turn engine 360° and tork intake 2,6,7,8 and exhaust 3,4,5,6. That is the proper order.
This actually worked relatively well! It didn’t work right after I cleaned them but I replaced the gasket on the driver said and he’s really nulled that down to the lifters possibilly being clogged. Will probably do the passenger side as I still get a light tick when idling now
This was a great video even all these years later! The only issue is after all that the assembly is still stuck to the body with those blue and red clips underneath the assembly lol.
I msy need this trick as i may have to spin my tire on the rim to change the location of the weight placement because i have a vinyl wrap on half my rim and dont want to put the weights on the vinyl
Excellent.....very cool bead breaker.....and the ZIP TIE idea.....fantastic. I wonder if you know.....to save cutting your ZIP TIES.....you can unlock the locking tab quite easy with a small thin flat screw driver or the likes.
"this wasn't designed for this application"........ This video is ten years old. I seriously hope u are not as fuking retarded as u were making this video.
I don't get it? The drive shaft is a low tolerance item it should be connected to the differential and not move except over bumps, if it does clunk it's more than likely u-joints? I just repaired and reinstalled my aluminum drive shaft that had nicks in the ears from bad u-joint, in a 2002 GMC Sierra and I squirted some high quality caliper brake grease into the yolk end I don't even want it mixing in with a transmission fluid it might make it gooey, then being aware of that there is a weep hole there got a spot not seen because of the installed u-joint and also at the very bottom of the rubber transmission extension boot for excess transmission fluid to ooze out instead of it oozing out of the dipstick end within the engine bay and causing a fire. But also the transmission extension boot has a lot of spring to it maybe, that needs to be replaced if there's a lot of slop?
I gotta 04 Z71 Avalanche that won't shift into 2nd it revs and won't shift..so I was thinking maybe transfer case fluid level..but have a stripped head ... Thanks brother!
You can try to replace the shift solenoids but if it isn't that you might as well buy another trans or rebuild the one you have, could be the 2nd gear clutch pack
I've mounted lots of tires over the years, with tire irons and wheel protectors, but never with Zip Ties. I just ordered the zip ties. I'm going to try it on my next rear tire change
If you think of it in time you can pull the fuel pump relay and run it out of gas first. On the first start after doing this I will crank it with the starter until it develops oil pressure then insert the relay and start it first start. I will be doing this next week in hopes of getting #6 firing again. Thanks for the idea! I have been noticing slower pressure rise in the morning start causing it to knock. I may have to R&R the oil pickup Oring just to be sure the oil pressure will stay good till around 300.000. maybe.
or perhaps...... ATF in the oil. One recommendation was filling the oil filter with automatic transmission fluid when doing an oil change. and/also having 1 full qt of ATF replacing 1 qt of oil. Run normally, or before an oil change.
