Great job on the video. After watching I did the brakes myself. Saved me a few bucks as the mechanic wanted some huge coin to do the brakes. Thanks for sharing.
Good vid I like the way you stopped and reset the camera to a different position before moving on. I also really like how you set the jack stand with the jack back up very smart! Very well filmed and excellent teaching along the way! Thank you, I learned a lot.
Just 2 things otherwise it was a great video. If you have drum brakes only or a setup like this always check the parking brake resistance by installing drum or drum/rotor setup (like in the video), install a few lugs all the way down to hold whichever it is you have and push the pedal down about 5-7 clicks and see if you can rotate the setup, if you cant then your good, if you can readjust. also i would suggest using a flat-tip on those adjusters not a pair of pliers.
great video! I love your instructions as well as your close ups! thanks for having plenty of light for your video; too often, people are doing videos and they are so dark, noisy, and full of cursing that you're like what's the point! so I commend you for having a great video. I am a female and your instructions were so good that I'm going to give it a try! thank you!
Although not a perfect video, he has done a great job of capturing some smaller points that are critical to know, but are skipped right over in most other related videos. For example, he rightfully points out that what appears to be a bushing behind the two 12 MM bolts holding the caliper are actually nuts although they only have two flat sides instead of the typical six. Great job!
It's good to finally see a mechanic video on You Tube where anti-seize has been used. It's the mechanics friend, especially if you are working on your own stuff. If you just take off one caliper bolt you can just rotate the caliper out of the bracket to change pads. Make a calculated choice on which bolt, make sure you have enough brake line length to rotate enough to get pads in/out. I do know you were already planning to take all the caliper and mount bracket out of the way. This comment was FYI for you and others. I watched a video yesterday where the guy was changing pads and took off the caliper bracket with the caliper still on it to change them. Yeesh! Good job on the video, I'll be doing this job soon on my S-10 ZR2. I drove 50 miles with E Brake on one particularly bad day.
Finally a GREAT TUTORIAL on Silverado/Sierra e brakes on YT, thanks for taking the time and patiently step by step explain the process to get it done. Kudos boss ✌️👍🙏🏻👏
Great video. I needed to learn about this combo brake that has discs for normal stopping and drum for parking brake. My comments: 1. Use locktite on yellow bolts not antiseize. I normally would not take those bolts off cause the lock title is tuff and you can do this job on most brakes by just removing the two back bolts. 2. Put brake grease on metal side of pads. Not absolutely necessary but can prevent brake squeal. Thanks
Nice job. I really appreciated the thorough explanations at each step. I particularly appreciated the very clear close-ups -- nice camera work there! I am having trouble getting the rotor off because, i think, the emergency brake is so jacked that it's keeping the rotor from sliding off. It's loose, but hanging up bad. Your close-ups are very helpful at showing me what I'm supposed to be seeing. The close-up on the adjuster was awesome.
I'm not sure if it was mentioned during the video but I found out that on a 98 Blazer you only have to adjust the left rear PB. I found out the hard way by attempting to adjust the right rear and it's not possible. The whole video on this was excellent and very helpful.
If you are just working on the parking brake and not changing pads, just remove the caliper bracket bolts and remove the brake as an assembly. Much less labor ;)
I just take the entire brake caliper assembly off, even if I were just changing pads. Also, I think that yellow "anti-sieze" compound is actually thread lock compound. That's why these screws are so hard to break loose. (Anti-sieze compound is usually either silver or copper colored.)
oscar madison I agree. No need to disassemble the caliper. Just loosen the mounting bolts and remove the assembly. And yes, that is thread locking compound, not anti-seize :)
Worth noting is a coat of Loctite holds fasteners but stops moisture intrusion. The stock "dot" is sheared on removal so I use the gel (for convenience so it doesn't run off) on reinstallation.
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
Thank you so much for this video, it fixed my parking brakes on my 07 Chevy Impala. The parking brakes never worked. And I searched for a video in the past. I did exactly what you said, and thanks to all your detailed information it works perfect now. Thank you
Well done! Thanks for the explanations as you went along. I’m about to replace my emergency brakes, and now I know what kind of resistance I should expect to feel when re-installing the rotors over the emergency brake pads. I just hope I don’t have to take apart that adjustment cylinder to clean and lube it before installing the pads. Again, well done!
Just my .02 from a lesson learned, don’t use a cheap C-clamp. Had the head of mine pop off the threaded arm and played hell getting it out of the caliper. Good video!
Thanks bro! Good shots on the video during brake shoe adjustment. It took me a bit to find yours.. as it directly applies to my 2001 silverado 1500. . To the comment about the guy who mentioned the brakes being self adjustable.. theyre not..They may have been intended to work that way. but they don"t work. The haynes manual tells you to do it exactly like my man said. .And another comment was made about being able to adjust from behind the wheel without doing this procedure.. Good luck with that.. on some vehicles this is possible. but on mine , the left brake lever and spring are at the top of the backing plate so getting in between that and the leaf spring which is only about 4 in away makes it to where you cant see what your doing. Also there was mention that pushing the piston in probably isnt a good idea without using the bleeder screw. He's prob right. I didnt think about that before. Ur just pushing dirty fluid back to the reservoir. But if you are going to do it that way .Push the piston in using a c-clamp ( and a piece of wood, or something so the piston doesnt get damaged). It's a good idea to keep an eye on your master cylinder level while your doing it. It will fill up. Manual says to pull fluid out of it before hand. Thanks again Red Raider for the great vid. I will be doing mine exactly how u did urs tomorrow. !!..If you dive into anything else before I do...Hook me up!.. lol
Love the video man. Unlike a lot of vids, you took the time to explain we’ll. I’ve found on pushing the piston back in, if your changing pads? Use one of the old pads over the piston then the c-clamp. It’s just helps to keep from any damage on the piston. Again thanks man!
Nicely done. The only thing I would interject is to Never push a brake caliber piston in like that. Always place a plate across it then the c clamp on top of that. Some caliber pistons screw in and by placing the clamp inside the piston as you show could fuck it up.
The caliper pins a 16mm is equivalent to 5/8". Also if your truck is as rusty as my '05 hitting the caliper pin bolts & caliper bracket bolts with some penetrating oil is a must. I also had to use heat on the bracket bolts to get 'em loose. Even if your not adjusting or rebuildingbthe e-brake it is worth the bit of time to go clean & lube up the actuator & contact surfaces.
There is a little hole in the back to adjust the PB, no need to even take off Tire. Just jack it up to spin the wheel.... Little hole in back, stick in a flat screw driver and turn the left side down to tighten, and turn the right side up to tighten.
I believe that these are self adjusting. If you work the parking brake several times initially and then periodically there is no need for this. The knurled nut has a armature below that moves it each time you apply the brake.
+macklandtube That is correct. Every time you press the brake pedal when driving in reverse the brake will self-adjust. If however, the emergency brake pedal goes to the floor or the emergency brake will not hold the vehicle on a hill then you must use this procedure to adjust or replace the emergency brake shoe. Excellent video RR.
I thought you could "expand" the parking brake assembly through a slot in the backing plate....turning the star wheel with a flat blade screwdriver until you get resistance while turning the rotor/drum without taking everything apart.
@@rareform6747 Yea I have the same brakes in my 04 sierra and no inspection hole/adjust.......I really think a error in design. I had a 96 sierra with them and drums only and was a much superior rear brake for service and power. Gm went back to the drums only in 05 and 06 (GMT800) Its a trick setup.
One quick question I didn't see you put any a nice he's on those big boats on the back of that caliper bracket and also aren't you supposed to grease that the two bolts 12 mm ones that go inside the caliper that doesn't that have to be greased or something
I like the way you loosen the lug nuts. I have never liked the idea of lifting on the pumpkin. Good for you, I will use the sized socket which fits what I am removing, I see your using the 3/8ths with the 1/2" . I have even used it down to the 1/4" for the bolts which are just a little too tight for finger removal. Haaaaaa it is the error part I don't like.
Thank u so much for this video, I have a cadillac cts that e brake went to the floor and still barely held the car.. not half way down and its holds great.. saved me $$$$$$
Did the rear pads and rotors on my car and accidentally misaligned the e-brake shoes and it doesn't work with the e-brake pedal pressed half way, but all the way to the floor and the e-brake works as intended. So, if my car has no brakes due to a bad line, I won't be able to use the e-brake at lower speeds. Lesson learned: adjust the e-brake shoes before installing the new rotors. Maybe I should get new ones as they are a bit worn out and for an 18 year old parking brake, it's not bad, but the shoes are grooved.
Question.. What happends if the parking brake shoe wiggles around forward and back and left to right? Does this mean the parking brake clip is no good?
so much easier on a 1500 than a 2500HD.... Also, you can adjust both models from access hole behind backing plate without removing tire, wheel, brakes......
Excellent instruction Red Raider. Thanks. One edit I would recommend...at 11:00 minutes in, you showed the lower bracket which holds shoe in place, but at 17:00 minutes in, after you demonstrated how much to adjust the parking brake shoe by spinning the wheel (excellent instruction), you forgot to RE-TIGHTEN that lower shoe clip. Maybe just type some script onto the screen, reminding the view to tighten that bracket before sliding the snug rotor back on. Thanks again RR. Awesome job!
I was derping around, and noticed that the hand brake can cost 2x the cost of say front for back pads, is this common? I hear things like it only last 3k miles of proper use.
Decent video.. however there isn't any brake pad lubricant on the stainless hardware that the pads sit on. Oh and use brake cleaner while you have it off to clean entire unit. You will thank me for it later...
Should I replace new parking breaks with new hardware ? On my vehicle the whole parking breaks moves back and forth. It’s should stay in place and not move at all. What could be the cause? Anyone know?
When I have done "other trucks & cars" I found its faster just remove the whole frame , I e, caliber & pad bracket Just be sure to pry brake the pads slightly from the disc so reassembly is EASIER. Just a thought.
Very good. Will be doing rear pads on 99 S10 again. Wanted a refresher on how caliper mounts to bracket. This leads to a new question for me, why should the parking brake pads ever need to be replaced? I assumed they stay retracted with zero contact 99% of the time, only being applied when parking and not moving. Why the need to replace?
Sometimes people forget to release their parking brake, and then start driving away with a small amount of pressure still engaged...wearing down the pad..
Great video, thanks for the help. I noticed on mine when fitting the rotor for resistance it would catch the parking brake shoes a little too much and pull them out of line so I had to tap them back in place to get the rotor on straight. other than that it was a good project with no hiccups
If you don't have a c-clamp for backing--up the piston you can use large channel-lock pliers. If you've been adding brake fluid, might want to remove some of it before backing the pistons up to prevent spill over in the master cyl reservoir. Question - - can't this park brake be adjusted from outside with a common screwdriver? Back in the drum brake days, you could adjust the brakes that way. Not so sure now.
+q7wasp7 I looked carefully at the mechanism after taking it apart. The parking brakes cannot be adjusted without removing the parking brake rotor-drum and doing it from the inside. "Bad design" but then that's GM for you.
Has anyone had this issue: Brand new rotors and parking brake shoes. But the shoes just barely fit into the rotor inner drum, and when installed, you can barely get rotor over the new shows? Adjusters bottomed out and brand new. Tried both type of rotors and multiple brands of shoes, all extremely snug. All videos on here make it seem like shoes will be loose when installed. Would love some help. Thanks!
Great video, the only thing I saw that I wouldn't do is push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder. Instead just open the bleeder on the caliper and push the caliper back to release pressure then close it. Pushing fluid could mess up the master cylinder, and mess up the abs if your vehicle is equipped. Other wise great video. Thumbs up!!
never use the bleeder if you don't have to. bleeders are generally really weak and if that bleeder is stubborn/rusted it can break off, which are sometimes impossible to take out without damaging the caliper which means you'll have to purchase a new caliper. the only way you can mess up the master cylinder is if there is air in the system and you start pumping the brakes. that's why normally mechanics will avoid disconnecting the caliper or bleeder valves. there is one exception to this; and that is if you live in ideal conditions where they don't dump salt on the roads.
