nice. we crossed on the trail the other day when you were at the crag to find something you had forgotten the day before. I also sent this route, but someone was belaying me! hehehe
I have only used the Micro Traction once to control my cache loop, I did worry a bit in a fall , the two devices would meet, it should feed ok but I wasn’t sure; you released the Silent Partner very efficiently, it can be tricky. Nice to see a real world example of LRS. Have extra likes 🙂
Thanks so much! Yes: if you use a very thin rope, and you feed the Silent Partner in a certain way, there is a risk that the whole clove hitch falls in a single slot of the Silent Parter "sheave". If you fall with the clove in that position, it can be almost impossible to un-cinch. I used a nut tool to pry out the rope from that mess once and resume climbing! It was a 9.4mm rope and I pushed it beyond normal use. Never happened to me with a 9.5 or 9.6mm rope... You can look in details how I release the SP here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-COs1YFpl7Ws.html
@@neitzsche5150 two Petzl Tangas would be annoying as you would have to remove one each time and risk dropping it. The Kong fast rubber might be good to keep a carabiner permanently on the belay loop but it is not my style. And would not keep the Spoc from sliding over the gate. Only the Avant "Flex-Link" - Anti-Crossload Protector would work and be of this kind!! Makes sense?
Curious, why not a non cross loading locker where the gate is blocked like the DMM belay master or similar? Do they get caught up? Good video as I'd sort of written it off without ever using one but generally like edelrid gear
Great video! Electrical tape will eventually ooze off and get all misaligned, especially if the 'biners are exposed to higher heat (like in a car). I'd suggest a few layers of heat shrink tubing to give you that thickness.
@@climberevan wow the heat shrink tube is a great idea!! In my experience the electrical tape gets damaged from friction but it stays decent for a while.
I am not the specialist in Soft shackles. I own a few and never use them in rock climbing. I know no one using them in rock climbing. I hear (and believe) they are safe when kept under tension. Not the case with the Spoc. I don't believe they are safe for that use...
I'm probably too short (172cm), 60mm slings end up under my belly button I haven't tried making it shorter yet but it seems like only option number 4 or 5 might work
Safe-Tec Duck-R Back Up Device: I have never touched one. I have researched the subject for Top Rope Solo (TRS) and decided against buying one. People who test it for TRS found there is too much friction going on and it seem like the device is annoying. Also it is 290g so not the most heavy but substantial. Also a bit expensive but would be ok if it did the job! Also I know no one using the Duck-R for TRS. Do you know more about it?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I wish it would too, dynamic ropes over 10mm aren't that popular. Still it's certified with an absorber too, so maybe these devices are made with static ropes in mind - I don't know really, I doubt I've seen this mentioned in any documentation. Your test shows what would happen in a non-ideal scenario, but I think this happens quite a lot, so it's extremely useful!
I have 1/2" inch stable braid polyester safety rope and I want a rope grab device to use on steep roofs to do roof work I want it to " lock" while I am doing work with both hands in a specific roof location. If I slip and otherwise would slide off the roof. would this device catch my fall and work for me ? I need to walk up and down the roof frequently to get to new places to work. Will the rescuender work if I get a proper harness ?
I believe this device is not made for that purpose. You should ask some specialists on the subject. In my opinion you need one rope + device for positioning (lock) and another rope + device in case the first system fails. Good luck with your research!
Updated: The adoption of girth hitches in creating master points has seen strong recommendations to incorporate the magic X half twist, thankfully. Other new tricks include use of modern fat, high test 22kN rings, and given how often a ring is carried anyway, as a backup in rappel situations, this can add some interesting pluses, like no gate, strong in every direction, smooth, no cricks to bind. A fat girth in one can still accept two carabiners as well. Climbing anchors will never experience more than one major directional load at a time. Max load can only come from a serious, factor 1.5 -2 fall. Toproping, rappelling, ordinary uses never come close to the limits of even poor knots and pro, BUT inadvertent shock loading of a system, from slack in a static personal anchor, or chains, even just a couple feet, can create very high peak forces our intuition simply doesn't foresee. All the experience, testing, and sharing by Yann and others adds to the general awareness and overall safety for all climbers, from the novice to the old diehards with half a century of hands-on learning, like myself. Thanks for the public service.
Thanks so much for the comment!! I must note that some people discourage the use of rings because their smooth radius make them slip more. They promote “I-beem” shaped carabiners that create more friction in the girth hitch. I think I have heard this from Karsten Delap. Best Regards!!
Depends for what use! For general use, an oval would be ideal. If you need to minimize the risks of “bad loading” at all costs (if the mini is not always tended by someone near), I have a complete list available to my online TRS and LRS students.
Check the manual, this one is forbiden by Petzl for fall arrest. Nevertheless I tried it for top rope solo climbing (self-belay) in real life (not only testing) and it locked about 75-80% of the time. The other 20-25%, the backup caught. Clearly unreliable to me. And Petzl seem to concur.
@@PathofCultivation 1m is far from enough for the nano traxion. I believe you need about 4-5m. The micro traxion and the Spoc requires a bit less weight… Buy the course, you won’t regret it! Contact me through my web page if you want help to get into that!!
Oui merci!! En fait je savais ;-) c’est Alex Honnold qui en fait n’utilise pas toujours de corde… Je fais simplement un clin d’œil à l’importance du free solo en ce moment. Et je recommande à tous d’utiliser une corde!!
