Custom woodworking, tool tech tips, safety and more. Join me on Facebook and Instagram Hello everyone. My name is Tracy Maxfield. I am a custom furniture builder. Most all of my builds are for a customer and built to suit their needs and designed to their personal taste. I will be sharing as many of those builds as I can with you. As well as jigs, tips and tricks and some tool reviews. There will also be some shop furniture made and I will be sharing those as well. My goal is to put out content that you enjoy watching but more than that I hope it is content you find helpful in your shop. Hit that Subscribe button and follow along. Feel free to Like and Share and leave a comment.
Mr.Tracy I can appreciate this I hope I never have this issue but if so good to know these types of videos aer here. Thanks for taking the time to share and explain this knowledge.
I had that planer and used it for less than an hour. Ate up the blades, the noise was horrendous, and the chip exhaust was way too powerful. Returned it like a cheap rental suit.
@chrissalazar183 regular. Straight out of the faucet. Never had any issues. But it's not very much water used to mix down the paint. Just enough to thin it a little
its been 5 years since you reviewed this router has Dewalt reached out to you or You, to Dewalt perhaps if it was still under warranty they might of offered to fix it or replace it? let me know cause i was about to buy this router and thought maybe your review could have caused them to fix this issue on newer models.
@anthonyvincent9990 Thanks for watching. I never did reach out to them and they never did reach out to me. I still use this router. I never did fix it due to having so many other routers in my shop. It is a tough reliable router. It just don't have variable speed, so it gets used with smaller bits. Wasn't such a huge deal to me but I did want people to know about it. For some people this may be the only router they have and need it to have variable speed control working on it.
@copedog101 I wouldn't say the 734 is junk. I have had mine longer than my 735 and have had less problems from it than the 735. Both are great planers and any of them can turn out to be a lemon. But I have had no issues at all with my 734.
Recently got 735x locally for around 450 in almost money condition and couldn't be happier. I had a lunch box style planer earlier and was not very happy with it. 735 is the auto carriage lock so you don't need a dedicated handle for it. This is due to 4 carriage bolt on which the top moves. 2 speed settings is just great. I will upgrade it helical head sometime in the future but till then a very solid machine.
Any chance of you doing a video on how to do Rabbeted half blind Dovetails for a drawer front? I've looked and cannot find a single video on that...and that is what I want for my drawer fronts...pg. 20 in manual...
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 This is just me venting some frustration cause I started my dovetail journey here, and I don't really have any other place or person who cares about my current frustration with this jig....Please forgive me for venting on your vid, but again....I figure you will understand... I now have hours and hours into this jig trying to do Rabbeted Half-Blind Dovetails. I find this to be much harder than through dovetails and much much harder than half blind dovetails....both of those were fairly easy. I see two initial problems... There are no videos...and the manual is less then specific... The manual actually tells you that to troubleshoot Rabitted half blinds to use the same methods described for the half blinds. And those are completely diffidently than through dovetails BTW... ...not as all the same... On half blinds you "tighten or loosen" your joint by lowering or raising your bit...???!!! I don't want to raise or lower my bit...I want it at a specific depth...? You move the template forward or backward to adjust proud or not proud... On half blind dovetails unlike through dovetails moving the template does nothing towards tightening your joint.... It's counterintuitive at best.... and unlike half blinds...you do your tails and your pins separately and therein lies the issue You would think as Hammer says in his video, "the tails become your reference".. I understand that to mean you make your pins fit your tails... Once cut you do not mess w/the tails... But that's easier said than done... I've gone through so much lumber I'm embarresed to say, but at even the cheapest I can buy, it's been a chunk of change to learn this particular thing.... I am tempted to just do half blinds for my drawers which are easy cause you do the tails and the pins simultaneously....but then that would be admitting defeat... This jig is so touchy, so many different ways to tweak it...and it appears that the "Rabbeted Half Blind Dovetail" is the most demanding and hardest to bring all the little adjustments into harmony to end up with an acceptable joint.... I've gotten it there, but then reproducing it is problematic because the only reference is that guide thing on the left that you move in and out to set a reference...and that is not machined any way near what it should be to serve as a valid reference...I'm not even convinced it's square... Make no mistake this jig was easy to do through dovetails and half blind...it's just this one joinit that seems to be so hard... Thank you for listening... Again I'm more ranting than looking for a response... I will figure this out eventually... I intend to actually call Porter Cable tomorrow to rant to them a bit and hopefully get some enlightenment.
@wetfly44448888 I understand your frustrations. I have never done the rabitted halfblind dovetails. I need to figure that one out and do a video on it. Just hadn't had time yet. Unless the manual states to raise or lower the bit in a certain process, I wouldn't. I can't think of how this would loosen or tighten a joint. Seems to me it would only mess the joint up. Unless im missing something. You loosen and tighten joints up by moving the template forward or backward on the jig. Like I said, I haven't tried rabitted dovetails. Maybe the height of the bit effects that. Don't know. Never done that joint on this jig. As soon as I can I will try to figure it out and do a video on it. Honestly I don't know when that will be. I have a lot going on and it may be awhile.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Thank you for the response...I'm thinking I'll get it figured out first cause I'm the one who needs it now...lol... So this is in the manual page 20...and this is in the section for Rabitted Half Blinds.... "FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING Fitting and troubleshooting methods for the lipped front half-blind dovetail are the same as for the regular half blind dovetail." So let me show you what their referring us to in the Half Blind Dovetail Troubleshooting sections...pg. 19 "FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING For joints that are too loose, adjust your router to make a deeper cut. (Measure the gap (A) Fig. Q10 in the test cut and adjust the router for that amount). For joints that are too tight, adjust your router to make a more shallow cut. Once you achieve the correct depth, secure the router bit depth guide in place with a 3/8" wrench. If the drawer front overlaps the drawer side, reposition the template toward you (Fig. Q11). If the drawer front is recessed from the edge of the drawer side (Fig. Q12), reposition the template away from you." See, this makes no sense to me.... I'm calling them tomorrow to see if there is some sort of typo in this... But no, please don't rush to do a vid on my account....
I am like many have done using RU-vid vids to learn how to use this same jig...I'm making my own kitchen Cabinets, and I need drawers...none of which have I ever done before...I have spent significant time looking at any how to vid on this jig and of them all yours are the best, at least for me...Thank you for your efforts...well worth it...
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I know I subscribed and have watched all you have on this jig...I hope to have time to look at your vids on other topics, but I've watched everything you currently have posted on this jig...You are a good teacher....easy to understand, you don't complicate things...
@allenriff9242 Chad done a very good job on that centering template. I don't think you will be disappointed. Thanks for stopping by the channel. Let me know what you think about the template when you try it out
Thanks for the video. I just got this jig and trying to figure out how to use it. I’ve cut box joints on my table saw in a jig I made and it can be adjusted if the joints are too tight or loose. I’m not sure how these could be adjusted if necessary. I’m going to give it a shot and see. I like your tip on the spacer. Thanks.
@LivingTheLifeRetired Thank you. I have several videos on this jig. There is a Playlist on my channel for through dovetails, halfblind, etc. If you wish to check them out
Great video! Thanks for going into detail on how to set the bit depth of cut. The Porter Cable manual is misleading when it says that the gap from the top of depth stop should be 3/8" from the bottom of the template in all cases. That isn't true for through joints. The depth of the bit for tail cuts should be the thickness of the pin board and vica versa on through joints. Thanks again for the details
@tmmyjay that I don't know. I usually buy the blades made for the tool. If the slots and notches line up and you are comfortable with it, you could try but do so at your own risk. I can't recommend using like that for safety reasons
@MarkDixon You have a plunge dept guage on the left side of the template. Set your router on the template and plunge down to the stop, which is a black knob with a threaded height adjustment screw. It should be labeled on the template. The stop is suppose to be set at the factory for the proper depth. If it is not correct you may have to tweak it some up or down. I think the common depth for halfblinds is 3/8 inch below the dovetail template while the router is sitting on top of the template and plunged down exposing 3/8 of the bit below the template. You can tweak it from there to preference. Hope that makes sense
Real good content. I'm fixin to build a house for myself and plan to do the barn doors myself. picked up some good tips here. I may toy with the idea of making all the interior doors and jambs. Don
If the platform is not parallel to the bed, you could be binding, and bearings should be loaded with wood fibers, try wd 40 to clean, then lube with white.lithum greese.
@IndustrializeEverything thanks. I'll give that a try. I did take the drive chain off and the cogs on the front and rear post on the right hand side will move freely but the left hand side the cogs are locked up and will not move. That's the right side front and rear post. I don't see any way to get inside and try to free them. I took one of the cogs off and try to enter it from the top but wasn't able to do so without damaging something and the is no way to go in from the bottom since I can't raise it up to access anything. But I'll try your suggestion and see if it helps. I won't be able to add any grease inside though
How about loosening the drive chain and testing each lift independently? It’s possible that one of them is jammed and inhibiting the others. Then you can clear the jam.
One of the only videos I’ve been able to find on hot to sharpen curved chisels like that with the WS3000. Is it all freehand or do you use the support under there to maintain a constant angle
Thanks for this. It looks like your box size is limited by the clearance from the jig clamp to the floor? Can you do a flush dovetail with this versus just a corner joint if you wanted to make some artful longer boxes? Sorry if that doesn't make sense, but like a butt joint only the joint is dovetailed? for the butt joint dove tail, couldn't you use the tail joint on both ends and just flip one of the ends to face away from the jig?
Yes your box size is somewhat limited in size by how far you mount the jig in relation to the floor. Not sure I am understanding the rest of your question. You can do through dovetails, halfblind dovetails, sliding and stopped dovetails and box joints with this jig. I have videos of all of those. Maybe email me a picture of what you are talking about and ill see if I can't figure it out
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I meant Instead of doing a 90 degree corner joint, can you do a flush dove tail joint... a joint between two boards that are flush, no corner, no angle i.e. taking two boards and making it into one board with a dove tail joint to join them?
@WithoutTroy oh ok. I see what your saying. You can't with the jig. You will probably have to hand cut those. You could cut your dovetails with the jig but you would still have to hand cut the pins side do extend a boards length like that
Question. When you talk about making the pins tighter (17:00 mark of the video) you move the jig closer to you. Does this also apply to the tails? I assume (maybe incorrectly) that the tails are not adjustable, they are the shape they are and that's it, all of the adjustment is to the pins only?
Yes. Just the pins are adjustable. The tails are cut by the bit passing through the work piece straight so there is no adjusting them. The pins are adjustable. When you move the template forward and backwards it will allow sizing the pins. Moving the pin template backwards, or away from you allows a wider range of the template over the work piece. The tail template has straight tines, so there is no adjustments to the tails
Great presentation. Love the way you explained everything. Having worked with wood for 30 years it was nice listening to an experienced woodworker. BTW never thought I would see another woodworker have a set of Jet clamps as well as Jorgenson
Thank you. My wife bought me those jet clamps several yrs ago. Otherwise I probably wouldn't have them. They are good clamps but way to expensive. I have an abundance of clamps brands. Never did stick to one particular brand.
looks like it would work great in the setup you have here where you have an odd number of tines/teeth on the template, but what about when you have an even number? Isn't the centre of the board going to be directly below a tine? How does the template work in this case?
You always mark center of your work piece and line it up with the center or the tines. This will allow for room, evenly on both sides for the outside pins to go or half pins. You should not have the ends or edges of the board falling under a tine. Make some test material the same size as you actual work piece and use Chad's Template as instructed and you shouldn't have any problems. Let us know how it goes
Thanks for a really great video. So much more accessible than the manual. One thing the manual does say about box/finger joints is that you should use the opposite end of the jig for cutting your second piece. You use the first piece you cut as the guide for setting up the end stop at the right-hand side. I think this would mean that you could batch out both ends of the joint without changing your set-up once you have it dialled in? Any reason why you don't use this approach? I've had the jig for about 3 years and haven't dedicated the time to making it work yet, so your video has given me the motivation to go and give it another try. Thanks again.
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 fair enough. Why change something that works. Yes, I've seen your other videos on the jig. Great content and saved to my favourites!
I am a carpentry enthusiast, residing in Colombia, South America. I acquired Chad's template a long time ago but had not had the opportunity to use it. In fact, I feel sorry for Chad because he did everything necessary, even spending his own money, for me to receive his template and I had agreed to give an opinion about it, which I had not done because I had not used it. I used it and it turned out perfect for my dovetails. Thanks Chad and I recommend his template. Regards, Luis Alfonso
