I am trying to measure chain stretch using digital calipers. Where can I get the roller to roller distance for say 6 links on a brand new chain. If I know this and I measure my 4000klm chain at the same rollers I can calculate the stretch.
Hi there, How much should you let the tyre deflate before putting sealant in? Also, must we inject sealant at the 12 o'clock position as you did the video?
Anyone know how to install the AXA rear light onto a Pashley hub gear bike? It was made with a front dynamo light and I bought a rear light from Holland (online). However, my bike people say I don’t have the right wiring for it. I didn’t get an answer as to what sort of wiring I need though. Help please!
Helpful video! Aligning the tire is a lot easier of you mount the wheel on a truing stand. Then you can move it back and forth slowly to see the location of the wobbles.
It’s very straightforward…. Just breathe and look at it for a few minutes. Putting the chain together and taking it apart is fairly easy. I just replaced a front mech and took it apart with the chain off both chainrings and put back together once new front mech was mounted. By far one of the best chains and easiest to install and remove.
Yes. The round "notch" doesn't engage the teeth. It goes on the outside of the chain. (The bottom of the chain when it's on the lower limb - nearest the road - and the top of the chain when it's on the upper limb.) The more gentle curve is the one that engages the teeth. It goes on the inside of the chain. (The bottom of the chain when it's on the upper limb, and the top of the chain when it's on the lower limb, nearest the road.) If you pause the video at 0:27, you'll see this clearly illustrated.
After you've seated the tape, you should peel the top layer back from both ends of the tape at the valve hole. That way, if the tape rips when you're pulling it from under the tire, you can start at the other end. Also, after you've straightened the tire and are about to start pulling the top layer of tape out from under the tire, reduce the tire pressure from 60 psi to half that as the tape is less likely to rip.
Where is the generator? - is a FAQ in all the comments. Well, a dynamo, which they are building in that wheel, is an electric generator. But, you will be disappointed when you try to turn that wheel with the axle in your hands! It is g e n e r a t i n g a lot of resistance - also at daylight ... - and your wheel will stop turning very soon. It is a brake on your bike. Then look out for a road racing bike of someone and give it's wheel a turn. You will see.
Before buying this stuff, take a look here: www.cyclingabout.com/best-dynamo-usb-chargers-bicycle-touring-bikepacking/ Excerpt: -------------------------------------------------- "Example One: 2.5-Watts (12.5km/h on the Cinq Plug5 Plus) Once a 3-watt dynamo hub has been converted from AC to DC the output will translate to roughly 5V and 0.5A, which for an hour of riding is 500mAh. Charging a 5000mAh battery will, therefore, equate to 10 hours of riding. However, when we factor in the small losses in the charging circuitry, we lose around 20% of the total generated power. Adding the 20% extra ride time (10 hours + (10 hours x 0.2)) and we’re looking at 12 hours of riding to fill the battery from scratch. Example Two: 4-Watts (17km/h on the Cinq Plug5 Plus) If we use fancy circuitry to boost the output power to 4-watts (5V and 0.8A), we can fill a 5000mAh battery in 6.25 hours of riding. When we account for the ~20% losses in the charging circuitry, this results in 7.5 hours of riding to theoretically fill the battery from scratch." ------------------------------------------------- This was not as good as i was expecting, so i will definitely have to do some "circus tricks" and use a GPS that uses AA batteries (which i can get almost anywhere. Phones drains a LOT more power), and a camera that uses AA batteries. That way i can leave my phone turned off most of the time. I would think a 15-20watt solar panel will be better alternative for me (both options would be ideal, but the dynohub seems a bit complicated and expensive). I will mostly just use my phone to upload a few pictures to FB, so i will mostly "need" power to watch some videos on my smart-glasses (a 7000mah battery bank would last about 8 hours of video time, if i take into account the 20% power loss, like in the example above)... Im guessing a 15-20W solar panel should have me covered, and if it is not fully enough, it will not be something important i need it for anyway...
I made the mistake with quick link... Maybe that's why they failed on two chains at ~2000km total. That aside, I noticed the wear is also very high - a lot more than KMC. Really wanted it to work out, but looks like I will stick to KMC.
I am planning to use my bike soon enough for delivery with Doordash and Uber Eats. I might want a generator bike wheel to recharge my battery packs. My bike was bought at $675 in 2014 and has none of it. I'd like to upgrade my bike to recharge battery packs that I mount on the back of it. Because it will keep my phone charged and my vape batteries charged.
My nitecore charger for my 18650 batteries needs 9V, and most dynohubs only generate 6V... If you vape at 150 watts and 1 set of batteries is not enough for a work day, then just bring an extra set of batteries to work. I vape the Aegis Legend (like i saw you had in a video), and it lasts me the entire day when i vape at 64 watts. If you bring a pod to work (i have the "smoant pasito" rebuildable pod, and it is actually pretty decent), then you can charge it with a regular battery bank, and if you have one with 2 outputs, you can charge your phone and pod simultaneously...
