Great vid. Thanks! I’m keen on Enve rims. 4.5 or the 3.4. Unsure yet which. How would the Enve wheels ride with a 32mm tyre? I’m not so interested in aero as I am comfort for long miles and lots of climbs (like gran fondo or audax rides). I run a 32mm tyre on a 21mm internal rim at moment. What would the difference be with the 25mm internal width Enve?
Did you have problem clipping in when you first installed the Shimano SPD-SL cleat? When I try to clip in on my bike, it’s doesn’t have the float like my other shoes, it’s stiff on the left and the right side doesn’t even clip in. Do you have any solutions to my problem with these shoes? I have the DMT KR0
may be without the pedals. mine 54 hi mod with sram red, 404 FC, momo handlebar with bottle cage, computer mount and LOOK blade ceramic pedal weight 7.39 kg.
Got a pair of these. If you have a narrower feet with a lower arch, it will fit you. If you have wider feet, annd especially if you have a high foot arch, forget them. With my high arch feet I can barelly put these on with the BOAs fully opened. Will send them back.
Thanks for sharing! I was wondering why I've not heard these wheels and your video answered it. To be fair though, I've an ENVE 5.6 with the same Chris King R45D Ceramic hubs, and they've been working flawlessly. I live in Seattle and these are the wheels I used in rainy days (my other bike is rim brake with ENVE 4.5 so I don't use it in rain to avoid damaging the rims), and always wash them after each ride using garden hose. I literally just service them two days ago for the first time since 2020 (only put 3,200 miles on them though as I've multiple bikes), and the bearing were still in great condition when serviced. So I guess your worry about water sealing is not necessary.
The new hubs look great. I actually didn't have any issues with the old version, aside from the annoying preload ring requiring an external lock ring on the rear hub. The bearings and free hub were silky smooth.
The one in front is the one that comes stock with the bike. The one on the rear is one that was 3D printed for the Swat mounting bolts on the Specialized saddle.
Good review, thanks! I see you ride galfer rotors. So do I on my 4.5’s 140 in the front and back (Holland/flat). Do you know how they hold up in the mountains?
I use 160F/140R. They do well on most of the bigger downhills, but they can start to fade after aggressive braking on very steep hairpin sections (around -15% to -20%). It happens infrequently enough that I keep using them. The new Shimano CL rotors, though heavier, do seem to be a pretty good alternative that don't experience the same fade.
If price is a factor, stick to your budget. If price is not a factor, I much prefer the 4.5s, as long as you are happy to run 29mm tires (or bigger). The 4.5 are more stable, accelerate better, and slightly faster.
I haven't ridden the SL7, but I do have a review in the works for the SL8. I'd say the S5 is marginally faster and stiffer feeling. The SL8 is very well balanced. I enjoy both bikes. I race and do group rides on the S5, but I mostly ride and train on the SL8. I'd like to do a follow up review on the S5 so drop any questions you have my way.
The NG is the higher tier model and the Eco, while still accurate, has a few less features. You can use this with Carbon Ti rings as long as you select the correct BCD. Though, the Carbon Ti rings are not any lighter than DA chainrings.
Great comparison video on these three wheelsets. How does the SES 4.5 compare to the Zipp 454 NSW? I am also curious how the SES 4.5 would compare to the Princeton Peak 4550 with the Tactics TR01 hubs?
In my opinion the 4.5 are the best. The 454 accelerate a little quicker, but the 4.5 are faster over all, and to use a cliche, hold their speed better. The 4.5 also have a better hub than the 454. The 4550 are well made wheels, but are sluggish and bland. The tactic hubs lower the overall weight, but have little affect on how the wheel feels since the rim weight makes a bigger difference there and the princeton rims are quite heavy compared to the other options.
Perhaps the creaking IS the seat post. BUT...I have the 353s and the 454s. The rear hubs get dry and start creaking. When it first happened I suspected seat post...but it was the hub. Lubricant fixes the problem.
I just bought a brand new 330 firecrest whel set and I realize that the zr1 hubs get a little sticky as soon as through axle is tightened, no pendulum moves with a minimal tighten is aplicaded for exemple, no disc brake interference. I was ride about 100 miles and the problem remains... Is it normal? What can I do?
Mine don’t have that issue. Some small resistance for new bearings is normal as fresh grease is moved around, but any type of sticking doesn’t sound right. I’d recommend having a shop inspect them.
I have a Madone SLR 9 (but with Ultegra, or an SLR7 with the RSL51 wheels) and my buddy just picked up a same size used S5 with 64mm Enves. I’m excited to swap bikes on a ride and see how it feels compared to mine. I did notice the bar flex on the Madone you mentioned if I push them around standing still but when I’m riding i don’t feel it at all. I think the wider footprint of the stem on the S5 makes the bars naturally stiffer
Thank you for sharing. I have been looking forward to hearing more ride reviews on Chris King ARD44 since they launched last year. I thought there was an embargo because there have been very few ride reviews/impressions so far... and the one I read from Escape Collective. It was the same as its just ok. A bit disappointed.
Always thankful for your Enve SES 4.5 video. You were instrumental to me buying them 9 months ago. Hands down best on the planet! Keep up the good work. Ironman LJ
I just got the DMT shoes. The heel is loose compared to the giros if I were to walk normally. The rubber gripper is meh I got the DMT on sale for half off, but giro is probably my trusted shoe.
I agree with you. The heel is a bit loose, but I do have skinnier heels. Giro are still my favorites, though recently I've been mixing in the S-Phyre too.
Do you really know the real reason why deep section wheels were introduced into road racing and where their major benefit is within a race. That's one for you to think about, I look forward to your answer and lets see if you get it right. Peace
Don't feel like the wave shape on most wheels are making any difference, if not making things worse than simple round shape. I got that zipp did that as they probably did pay for wind tunnel testing and found this useful. But for most others, their wave shape rims simply looks like a ugly and uncessary copy from zipp and making the rim looks cooler. Besides, even zipp admit that 454 actually is slightly more draggy than 404 in terms of 90degree headwind situtation. You gain aero benefits, and then you will lose some, no free lunch.
Personally, I liked the S5 more and thought the build quality was slightly better than the Madone. The Madone was more comfortable, but the S5 had a stiffer BB and handlebar that I liked. Both bikes are good though, so pick the one you like the look of most and that also fits you the best.
I would ride LOTOJA on this, but with some lighter 45-50mm wheels to help with the three climbs and 28-30mm tires. The only section of the race that wouldn’t be ideal is that stretch of road near Thayne that’s always rough on a stiff bike.
@utahcanyoncycling OK, thank you. Yes road racing is more what I was looking at. I have had traffic tell me I'm doing 60km/hr as sign posted. I just point at my own speedo gauge. 404's were incredible. Was like cycling without wheels / winds.
