EZ Boardwalk bandsaw mill is the only one I know of that angles the blade 15 degrees which helps the blade pull itself through the cut and by not cross cutting requires less effort to cut. So I don't know if the F2 can allow you to rotate the chainsaw into the cut but you could definitely do this when slabbing. See if it helps the cutting. I was also wondering why nobody simply does the return cut from the far end after raising up the log. I do know this throws the saw dust to the other side of the mill and also puts cutting pressure on the log dogs instead of the backstop. Would there be too much pressure on the dogs to do this? It would save the return trip each cut.
Hi - what species of wood is it? 400year in ground and still good? Nice colors - i like it very much when wood gets some natural colors by misture and wood fungus, pacterias and mold... video is now 8 months ago - do you have some pictures what they made out of it?
Amazing video. We would like to show this video on our channel with your permission. We will add your link and your name will also be mentioned in the video. Let us know what you think
There was a guy in Oklahoma we bought some lumber from, that used a Stihl chainsaw with a bandsaw blade attachment he had a building full of lumber had his own kiln to dry his lumber, i ask him where is the saw mill located, he pointed to the chainsaw with the bandsaw blade attachment, i have never seen another
Hi Tobias, thanks for the helpful videos! We recently started sawing with an F2+ and ES8 and are wondering what daily maintenance or cleaning we need to do. There‘s a lot of oily sawdust that collects under the saw bar with every cut. Do we need to clean this frequently? Could you do a video of your daily cleaning routine of the sawmill? Greetings from Germany, Lisa
Hälsningar från Finland Tobias! Have you tried to make an less than 90 degrees angle to blade doing some sledge and bar modification. Even standard chain and blade would work better in MS391. Changing blade angle would push more sawdust out of cut area? You can actually see bigger particles flying out on this skip chain while standard pushes more fine sawdust. There must be slowing effect as well. There is a similar angle in speedsaw E5 model1 blade?
Hello, you have great videos. I have idea to make electric saw because I have electric motor. May I ask you to share some information about type and diameter of pulleys on ES 5/8, bearing housing for Schaft, because I don't know how to put all that under the plate with 64 mm distance between table and plate. Thank you.
Tobias, du är tamejfan guld värd! Tack tack tack för hjälpen. Jag plockade isär min hyvel för några månader sedan och hittade inget diagram på hur dreven skulle sitta på matningen. Googlade och hittade din video. Exemplariskt bra gjord och mycket hjälpsam.
I have a question for you. How does the Smart Cut work? I have yet to see any video really explain it, they have it in the RU-vid title and just cut wood but do not explain anything.
25% loss for making square and 30% loss for making slabs from sawdust so we lost 55% wood and remaining is 45 percent if we cut chainsaw blade i think this is very easy but not perfect or efficient to save useful portion in logs
Eh? Recovery for square logs is anywhere from 50% to 70% You are right about the saw curf on the chainsaw though. Our bandsaw blades have a curf of 3mm or 2.8mm to be precise.
First of all thank you for the teardown video. But did I actually miss the changed bearing? All I saw was dismantling -> ah bearing looks ok after all -> reassembly -> fixing a cable. What about the cause for the cable coming loose and the big amount of heat? shouldn't the rear end bearing be defective and thus get changed?
