@@thefixerofbrokenstuff Oh, I'm making a bolt from scratch, only have a die to cut the thread, hoping that' would do it,....wish me luck, will report back here.
Hi! I don't know much about this, and you're probably fine as is, but occasionally posting abandoned sites can lead to vandalism. Still, it's a very beautiful building
Thanks, I'm looking to do the right front brake line (having done all the rear ones) and there's so much "anti-corrosion compound" (oil cooler line) that with the front clip all still on, I can't actually see it it. Now I can get a rough measurement. These units were definitely designed to be worked on with the body removed.
Thanks for teaching the youth something useful. My family was a bunch of rich cry babies that didnt show me anything worth a fuck. I hope this young man has every opportunity to make a diference in this world. Good job grandpa or dad. Or uncle. Whatever you are.
I just got mine and it is not holding the line from pushing back during F1 step. Cleaned the line and the tool clamping surfaces of all grease with lacquer thinner. Even tried sanding the end of the line. I'm sure the tool it all hardened so not able to punch some dimples in the clamping groove. Tightened the 2 bolts good and clamped in vice too. Steel line. Using a tubing cutter and greased and went just a little at a turn to reduce work hardening. Anyone have any tips?
Just found success. First, I heated the end up red hot with a propane torch. Very fast. So annealed the steel. Second, I ran the chamfer tool a little deeper to create a slight bevel in there and it went like butter. So not sure which of these 2 things did it but maybe it will help someone.
I have the exact same indicator, but it seems the return spring might have broken or slipped off where it was attached. I removed the cover off the backside and can't figure out where the spring needs to be attached to make it functional and return once the plunger is depressed. The spring is just tightly coiled up at rest. Can you look inside yours and see how it's fixed in there? I was planning on making this exact same setup for my lathe. Thanks!
The steering in my 1998 S10 is very sloppy. Would you ever buy a steering shaft from a junkyard? The one's I see online don't look the same as mine. My cousin's maternal grandpa runs the local junkyard and he has about 20 S10s and Blazers. I was thinking if there was one in good condition I would use it.
I just recently bought nickel copper brake line on Amazon labeled 4Lifetime. Its not nickel copper, its magnetic. My local parts store carries AGS brand that is not magnetic. Thirty bends for the first line, then another thirty bends later i installed real copper nickel.
One tip from my learning use a heavy leather glove when Seating the drill bit in the taper in spindle went to set one and it slipped slicing my palm really good. That baby's had lots of use the pecker holes show how good they were. Id sand it good and use metal epoxy on the surface divits and holes then resand its good but not great.
These horse tillers can run away from you while tilling. I'm to 260lbs and struggle with it at times. I find that by adjusting the handles lower I can easily pull up on the rear tines if it starts running away. Unfortunately then the friction reverse doesn't work because the reverse lever hits the cross bar between the handles.
Can the foil be skipped and just use plastic? It's easier to see and eliminate the air pockets, removes pretty good, and even if you can't get the plastic off, that will be gone when prepping for paint anyway. Or am I missing something?
@@thefixerofbrokenstuff so 4 mil plastic would be insufficient to hold shape compared to foil. If I'm understanding correctly. Interesting. I am actually this minute ready to go out and do this. Hosed everything up yesterday and had to take it all off, so this is attempt 2. And no, I didn't use backing. I dipped and spread, stuck to EVERYTHING and failed terribly.
obviously a very experienced mechanic , I just stumbled onto this video as Ive just bought an 89 chevy 2500 with a wobbling harmonic balancer that I later discovered as the timing went south great video great teaching funny guy too
I tried to thumbs up 3 times but the left party didn't let me hahaha Didn't even ask for my ID either. Haha great videos, Im literally going through all your S10/Blazer videos right now. Got a 2000 4.3L 4L60E 2WD I'm about to pull motor and trans out and do all the gaskets on the motor and new transmission as well.
I just got a set of these up to 1", a 1/2 Proto ratcheting socket adapter, and an 18" 1/2 sliding t handle. I AM THE MACHINE TOOL! Ratcheting t handles in the shop are a godly tool to have. I got the small General tools one for really small taps and one from harbor freight for larger taps. Its a pain in the ass chasing or tapping threads with a non ratcheting design. You can buy Morse Taper sleeves to hold taps by the way. Most if not all drill presses have a Morse Taper 2-3 spindle and you can drop the whole drill chuck out with a drill drift. From there you can buy an MT3 annular cutter arbor to use those massive slugger drills or run ER32 collets with an MT3-ER32 adapter. Drill presses can handle small end mills with no problem if you want to plunge mill.
