My S10 pickup 1990 4 c 2.5 runs but it will shut off after a fiew miles change Ignition module Injector Fuel filter and pump Ignition coil And still cutting off after a few miles it will start again after 5 minutes . Interested is that when cut of the pump will run but no fuel will come out of the injector and is new injector pump and filter there is no leaks no over heating nor low pressure is normal 14 volts just won crank but wont start till 5 or 6 minute's setting The only part left to change is the Ignition pickup if that dont work i goin to running out of a clif and wach it burn😅😅😅
Sounds almost exactly what I experience and after finally getting down to changing my ignition module inside my distributor all my problems went away. Basically had a smooth running engine by changing all these components or AKA a good tune up. My S10 had similar issues when I started driving it and warmed up the issues of rough idling and engine shutting down became a constant issue. I would recommend double checking your Ignition module just to make sure it’s not defective. Many of my components I try to buy at O Reilly’s or Autozone just to take advantage of lifetime warranty replacements.
I had to change the clutch slave cylinder because the S10 started having issues with shifting or basically putting transmission into gear. I started noticing hydraulic fluid on the ground. Since it’s a hydraulic clutch the only adjustment or issue you have is bleeding the air out.
Sorry but to answer your question if Replacing both items is highly recommended because of the higher pressure will cause old hydraulic oil seals to leak just like it happened to me.
By the way I also replace my shocks I used coilovers and talk about rigid and bouncy I'm sure what time they'll settle in but I prefer it to weaken sloppy thank you for sharing your videos they are very helpful especially when it came to the electronic Parts replaced under the distributor cap it was exactly what my needed once again thank you for sharing
I had the same issues and got multiple codes out of the OBDI system…I replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and contacts, coil, EGR valve…eventually OBDI code kept saying “ECM” computer… try to find one of those!! I eventually found one with same serial number in a junkyard. Swapped the EPROM out for my original one and all my problems disappeared!
I changed master & slave clutch cylinders in my 88 S10. It was a bear changing the master. I wanted to assemble and bleed before in installed, but couldn’t do it. So I installed and then attempted to bleed when it was in place. It was a royal PITA until I tried bleeding it from the slave, up through the master to the reservoir. I connected a hose from a bottle of fluid up to the open bleeder valve on the slave. Then I used the pump to draw the fluid up through both cylinders to the reservoir. Once air all out, closed off the bleeder valve on the slave and was good to go! That slave bleeder valve is in an awkward location.
A 1997 is no better a twist and lock master cylinder is my ass.. plug in line to the slave is a pain in my ass because off I was expecting it to snap in but hell no
I drove my S10 home from work and just when I got home it became hard to put into reverse and 1st gear. I checked my clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I refilled it and it leaked out as soon as I pressed clutch.
I have the same truck, bought the exact same parts. Bled outside of truck, put everything in, great pedal feel, still struggling to get into gear. When I crack the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, fluid only comes out for about a second or two, like shoots out, but then stops and nothing else comes out. This is with the clutch pedal being depressed. What is happening?
You need to make sure all Air is out of cylinder so you need to make sure you elevate or have bleeder valve at highest point. Air will always rise up to highest point.
The distributor cap on the 2.5L S10 is a pain to remove and reinstall. Also - the coil is one of those parts that you can pretty much only remove and reinstall by feel - can't see (maybe from underneath).
Thank you for the video I actually watched your video about the ignition module and pick up in the spring to get my s10 running again. I just ordered the same parts from autozone for the clutch
@@ryanchastain6133 I had various issues in the beginning. First issue truck would start but as soon as give it fuel the engine would end up shutting down after applying accelerator. The issue was a bad fuel pump. My second Issue after replacing fuel pump, was engine would start running rough after driving it and engine getting up to normal temperatures. I started replacing MAP sensor, fuel injector, spark plug wires and plugs, idle valve and didn’t make a difference until I changed Ignition Module. As of now and daily driving S10 it’s been running like a champ.
So I took your advice got both modules took me a good amount of time to put them in come to find out my distributor is so old that the wires fell apart so I had to buy a whole distributor long story short my truck runs better now
I’m glad it finally took care of the issue. I will definitely post a video on how to replace it and what tools are needed. This would make things way easier for future reference.
Anybidy who’s having this kind of trouble also needs to replace the Hall effect switch in the distributor if it has one. When Hall effect switch is bad your fuel injector will not pulse and spray fuel.
I had the same issue but only happened when engine got to normal operating temperature. Keep in mind, I did change MAP sensor, fuel injector and Fuel filter and pump but it was on ongoing problem until I finally change these two last components. I was very frustrated just like you but this finally made the S10 run like a champ!
What year is your Truck. I basically purchased everything at O Reilly or Amazon. I like O Reilly for the fact that your buying components that have lifetime warranty and it’s only minutes away from home.
HALL EFFECT switch in distributor. If it’s bad the injector won’t fire gas into the intake. Fought with my dad 2 years trying to convince him to look at the distributor Hall effect switch when truck wouldn’t start due to injector not spraying fuel. Did all kinds of stuff that didn’t work. He finally gave it and I was right. If your injector isn’t firing gas pull the distributor and replace Hall effect switch and ICM while your at it Reason…the injector fires in time with the engine rpm. The information comes from the distributor meaning it’s how it knows when to fire gas. If the Hall effect switch is bad the injector won’t fire because it thinks the engine is turning over
