I have a 530d N57 f11. My plastic cover that you twist off to get to the sump plug has a retaining screw. Just a heads up to check to look. I didn't realise this as there was nothing I saw or read that pointed to this. Hence I used brute force thinking the cover was just gunged up with dirt that was stopping it turn. It cracked & broke and that was it gubbed. Need to order a new one. £12 I believe.
Thanks for a really helpful video. Would this be the possible cause if the suspension drops overnight but as soon as i start the car, the suspension goes back to normal height ?
Excellent review, same kind of user, with the same principles as me. I agree with all. I had CLK500 and E500 and totally share your impression about the accelerator, and curiously, adopted the same solution, the throttle controller! About to purchase a CLK55 amg cabrio now, so the review was useful! You even have the same kind of Android radio that I installed in my CLK500!
Hey. Great Video!!! Have couple of questions, just purchased a 535d with N57 engine, same as youth. Long story short, how much of a vibration you fell inside the cabin, I have similar issue with the engine when it idle, on camera it shows really well, it's floating, but if you put the hand on the top cover it vibrates, same on the starting wheel, and only when idle on park or drive, and when rpm gos over 800 it feels sealky smooth. just wondering if you ever notice it and if yes, was it there for as long as you had a car? Engine and tr. mount's was replaced, the air filter duct and housing to turbo was replaced, not engine light, no hick-ups. will be huge halp if you respond! Will be posting video on troubleshooting and all the repairs soon by the way. Thanks!
Imagine getting the bulb the wrong way round 😂 thanks for this mate. Think I’m gonna try squeeze my hand in first of all but looks like it’s gonna be this
Hi, on my F11, when I drive it very lightly (for example when there is a lot of traffic and I am moving 10-20 km/h in second gear and when I gently add gas and let off the gas I feel an unpleasant jerk. Could it be the engine/gearbox mounts? Thx
Not sure if you will reply in time, as im going back to bmw tomorrow. 2 months ago, i noticed car was lowered. I turned engine on and it rasied itself back to normal. This then continued, could lower after an hour or sometimes days and then every time i start engine it would go back to normal. So i bit the bullet, took to bmw and then diagnosed as it needing a new air compressor which i paid around £1.3.k to have sorted. Got car back and week later, it lowered. Gutted i am, because i go back tomorrow for them to take car back and look again and tell me know what they think is wrong. Ive suggested they got it wrong and they relaced a part which dodnt need replacing. They are digging heels in and saying a new fault has happened which is causing it to lower again. Have you got any ideas on how i can approach this. Thanks
You haven’t removed the any filings that maybe in the sump or removed all the oil from the sump - don’t think the sump pump is really a good way of doing the job - but thanks for the video
You can leave the crossmembers in situ, but you need a Torx bit in a ratchet spanner. That just about fits. Then you need a hacksaw blade to cut the neck of the old filter, then turn it sideways. The nee one has a separate filter which makes it easier
Any gurus still active here? I just cleaned the whole intake manifold, the swirl flaps and it's still in limp mode. Why is that? None of the swirl flaps are broken or covered in carbon, the sensors are cleared and carbon free, no check engine, no warning lights on the dash, it's idling really nice..I'm clue less.
Similar happened to me. Sacrificed a thin wood chisel to chip off the nut cover then a deep 21mm socket after heating with torch and a ratchet long arm torque wrench.
Since it was a sunny day in South Wales for a change, I took the opportunity to do the egr delete on my 2007 L322 Tdv8 3.6 . All went till I sheared the final torx screw. Luckily this only took an hour to remove. Lesson learned don't overtighten using electric tools 😂. I got the kit from X8R, £££ but good quality.
I've just ordered a new one for my BMW. Issue is, its leaking out of the top where it bolts on to the coolant temperature part. There are no cracks on the part at all. So I can't figure out why it's leaking. The bolts don't need tightening as they won't physically tighten any more than they already are. So I can't figure out why it's leaking from where it is. Nonetheless, I've ordered a new one, very very reluctantly, I may add. This car has been issue after issue.
I know this is an older video but I'm still going to leave a response. This is one of those ugly jobs that you have to do. I also believe that this was totally necessary. I was watching someone the other day who was doing the math on what percentage of space that brings in the air to the engine and how much of a reduction in it really was. He calculated that he was losing 45% of airflow due to the carbon buildup. I'm hoping to get this done this week. I'm not under the clock so I can take the extra steps and do things while I'm in there. I am fortunate enough to have a shop size air compressor add a walnut gun. I also plan on using my power washer. If the manifold wasn't so expensive to replace I was just order a new one. I did enjoy your video and I made sure to give you a big old thumbs up. I also hit the subscribe button and I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos.
