Really, I’d say this was a zero cost fix... but I did have to replace the blown fuse, so if I’m being firm I did buy 2 fuses for £1.80 down at Halfords as I didn’t have any 40A blade fuses knocking around.
A huge thank you to you. BMW dealership quoted me £1400 for a new compressor. I asked what was wrong with the compressor (after paying their charge for a diagnostic test), and they said "it needs a new compressor". Having the knowledge from your video allowed me to get my compressor out and dried (it too was soaked through), and lo and behold, the problem is fixed. Shame on BMW dealership I say, but huge thanks to you for posting this.
Great video. My 2016 F11 520d with 145km had the same issue. No error codes, just sitting on its ass after being fine the day before - I had replaced both bags only a few weeks ago so I knew it wasnt likely to be a bag issue. I could hear the compressor running but it wasnt raising the car when I opened the door. No fuses blown either. I tested bags by pumping up with a bicycle track pump and they held air and lifted the car. Took out the compressor, dried the beads, they were moist but not soaking and took the solenoid out and gave it a few whacks as it may also have been locked open. It looked brand new even though its 5 yrs old. Reassembled, and refitted pipes and connectors but not the airbag pipes - opened door to let compressor run and I could feel air being pumped out of the compressor (I stuck my thumb over the outlets to see how much pressure was being forced out) through the solenoid valve so both appeared to be working. Refitted airbag pipes and once the compressor ran it lifted the car - 24 hrs later its all still good. Thanks a lot, your video hopefully saved me an expensive replacement unit and didnt cost me a penny. My advice for anyone tackling this is to take your time and work through things logically - if the compressor is running thats good...if it isnt try fuses or relay first - they are cheap ! If it is running - disconnect airbag pipes and see if any air gets pumped out when you open the door. If thats not pumping out then its likely either the solenoid or the dryer so try both. Everything comes apart, just dont force anything. Thanks Nut Job
@@Asserti From memory, once you disconnect the airlines from the compressor there is a brass valve at the end ( i think its an 8mm or 10mm spanner to do so ) of the air line which runs to the airbag. You can insert that into the end of a bike ( track ) pump like a normal schrader vale and pump it that way. Hope that makes sense ?
Fantastic video 😄 Your not scared of tackling any job on that Beamer or Range Rover 😊 What I like Nut job is that you share what your doing to fix the faults and give other people confidence to fix cats them selves 👍🏻 Well done Stevie 😎
Excellent video. Keep them up. Should be compulsory viewing for all members of the public so that people become more mechanically inclined and fix things themselves, like people did 50+ yrs ago etc
I was having the same problem with my personal 750i. You Saved me thousands. Okay just hear me threw here. I took my car into the dealership (Century BMW) because someone told me the compressor maybe under a RECALL/TSB WARRANTY FOR CATCHING ON FIRE!. $150 Diagnosis Fee which I was okay with until they came back 10 minutes later telling me I needed to replace my bags, compressor assembly and vent valve. Well, the 20 year old kid that the BMW dealership claimed to be their “Master Technician” said. As we say in the Automotive field, “He was throwing the basket at it”. I own my own Automotive Repair shop here in Alabama. I knew it WAS NOT the bags. I tested they, they held pressure over the weekend, NO LEAKSI You did an AMAZING JOB at explaining the process and steps to repair the system. This repaired my car. Thanks
Great stuff! Glad to hear it helped you out. The more I read about compressor problems it seemed that nearly everyone was being charged massive amounts to (usually) replace the compressor, plus whatever else they ‘recommended’. I was intrigued... so I took mine to pieces to understand how it worked. I’m convinced that most people would be able to fix their compressor with a bit of perseverance 👍😀
andy brant not really. This bmw s an ex police vehicle. Don’t assume it’s been well looked after because it was a police vehicle. Used and abused from the moment the key is turned.
Not sure that UK police vehicles get serviced by main dealers Each force has its own vehicle maintenance team that carry out repairs so it’s possible that all servicing is carried out by them Helps keep the costs down
Great content. I had the same issue, soaking wet beads and filter. Followed your process of drying all components. However it did not fix the issue. Taking everything apart again, having a good look at all components I discovered that the venting solenoid was heavily corroded which resulted in the pin not being able to move when given an electrical signal. 3 days, £24 solenoid from eBay and some patients it’s all fixed!! Thanks again for this content very helpful.
Im an engineer but have to admit this guy knows his stuff!! fair play buddy, not many people know how compressors work and why there is desiccant in there to remove the water from the air to avoid corroding air bag internals etc......keep it up.
Thanks, nutjob. Mine died this morning. I did the bags a couple of years ago but this time it was the dryer on my compressor. Fixed it after work. Saved a fortune. Hero.
Cant thank you enough. Away in Morzine for Christmas and pump started making a terrible racket before giving out. Recovery unable to find garage given time of year so started to look in to possible fixes and came across this video. I found pulling relay (in tyre well next to battery) before replacing the fuse seemed to reset and pump fired up again later in the day, however clearly an issue. Stripped down (hardest part locating all the trim retaining screws and nuts) and whole pump saturated. I suspect mine had actually frozen as we had -8 overnight making it impossible to draw any air through the ice and overload the motor/blow fuse. Having used the drying room for pump parts overnight and low oven bake for the beads she is now purring and fully inflated.
Followed this video to the letter and my filter was wringing wet. All dried out, no more blown fuses and suspension working a treat. Thanks nut job. My assembly had a plastic filter lid not steel like yours. It looked like a sealed unit but eventually I got some pliers in and yanked it out. Can't believe that BMW make something so fault-prone. I also had a water leak last year thru the bulkhead, filling up my rear footwell, another design fault.
Fantastic video and fix. Having said that it worth changing the exhaust solenoid while you have everything stripped. This is bound to get stuck again as it's been exposed to a lot of moisture and rusted internally. They're only about £25 and saves the extra work and stress for the expensive compressor down the line when it randomly seizes.
Just got mine done, finnaly back on the road! After lots of research, DIY and taking my car to the garage ,Here is what the problem was : the air compressor is very unlikely to fail by itself , when is fails , it is most likely causing by leaked air bags first and making the compressor working constantly, at the end it would fail( these compressor are not supposed to be working hard every time you start your car) . If you see your car was sagging on one side or both sides , quickly get the air bags changed, before the air compressor fails, after market parts on Ebay works very well, both compressor and the air bags ( where I got mine from) , thank you for the video again, it gives me the desire to work this out myself , and I hope my comments will help fellow bmw car owners with the same problem.
@@Nut_Job. absolutely , Almost sold the lovely car at a fraction of the price one time , don’t let the garages fool you, they won’t just tell you to change one part , they will change every possible thing for you , do your research, get your hands dirty , you could save yourself lots of money, look after your car , it will look after you, thank you for the video.
Hey Nut Job, you seem to be having all three issues an F11 530d owner could possibly have. Thank you for sharing all your findings and adding your guidance to it!
Yeah, This is a proof that people shouldn't be afraid of air suspension in vehicles. THIS EXACT compressor (with really minute design/fitting changes) goes into many cars - int al Range Rovers, Mercedeses, Audi Allroads, Volvos, Fords, etc, etc. It's made by Wabco - who generally specialize in heavy truck air systems - brakes, suspensions, etc. Passenger car compressors/systems is just one of their components in a loooooooooong line of air components. 4 or 5 years ago I ordered a repair kit (consists of mainly the piston ring made from some witch-craft material - with two bolts and a seal) for my C6 generation Allroad - and the producing guy is from Britain no less, has his own ebay shop (can't remember the name now for the life of me). He manufacturs the seals in the garage - at least he says so in the webpage - should come up after googling "air compressor wabco repair kit made in UK", or it ought to at least. The kit was really easy to install - however, this compressor, as is said in the video, also has an electric motor, which should be cleaned after a while. It is a brushed motor - meaning, the carbon brushes deteriorate after a while and create a mess in the motor windings. The four rivets on end of the motor housing can be drilled open - and the holes can then be tapped with M4 (I think) and bolts can be installed later to close the body - it even has space for additional washers and nuts just for safety's sake (on top of the tapped thread in the housing). Also - the deseccant can be replaced. I found loads of it - for cheap - in heavy truck air brake filters/dryers. There are shops who specialize in air parts for trucks/trailers - and they sell large filter-looking things that are actually dryers - full of the granules. If you cut such a thing open - it will be full of this desaccant, like several jars worth of. No need to bake it - just throw it out and pour in the new one (the large filters/dryers cost next to nothing, I think I bought the largest available for EUR 16,00 or something). This friday I'm collecting my "new" 2012 F11 530d xDrive - and the car's equipment says "no air suspension" - which to me seems a bit suspicious, as I thought all of them (Tourings) come with rear air shocks. Either way - good to know that even if it has air susp, it's the good old Wabco that I've rebuilt years ago on my audi. Thanks for the video, greetings from Latvia.
Inspired and admired mate, you have balls my friend, and obviously an understanding wife, have a BMW myself and the wife just hates it now with the money I have hemorrhaged on it, Keep making the video's brilliant!
Martin Cook yeh when you run older cars you get these issues from time to time. I was looking at a new bmw 5 and your talking 500 plus a month in payments. Why people say older cars are money pits, when new cars still cost a shed load in payments or depreciation.
Thank you a heap. Was just about to order some new bags (just assuming that was the issue). Dried out the desiccant and it all seems good. Love the fact that you can help me out and you are 12000miles away .
Really nice fix (again). To be honest this is what put me off getting an F11 the air suspension on the rear. Those compressors are the same as the Land Rover units and someone reminded me BMW briefly owned LR so they obviously raided their parts bin. Check out Tosh Lubek on RU-vid and his video "Wabco Air Suspension Compressor Repair Kit for Range Rover - BMW - Land Rover" he sells piston rings he manufactures for the compressors and explains why they fail (basically they don't ride straight in the bore). Hopefully that might be of use to you with two cars running air suspension. Great video again, I do admire your patience with repairing stuff!
Had the exact same problem with mine however upon taking the compressor apart I found that the piston itself had seized up! Worth looking out for if you're having this problem. Excellent video mate 👍
I had the same problem with my F11, a car from new for 6 years, and had the problem twice. The first time the BMW garage charged more than 3000euros and the second time I fixed it myself for 0euros! Amazingly placing the beads in the microwaves for a few minutes fixed it! I was advised by an engineer to change them to silica gel ones as they are more resistant comparably to the ones used by BMW. Unbelievable how a high prestige company has such a fault! - for info I live in the north of Sweden (snow and cold temp)
This is a top top video as like you say the compressor is silly expensive. Coincidently I replaced my air suspension bags at the weekend but one was leaking and pulling the other side down. This type of video makes you not be afraid to have a go before looking into expensive parts. Brilliant thank you!
Ive seen this happen. Coinsidently last time when we repaired air suspension issue, it was white f11 that had the issue 😄 The trouble with it was that the same fuse had blown. This was not due to the system itself, as the bags had been replaced 3 months earlier, and the compressor about 1 month earlier. We've had few of these in the past 2 years where only the fuse is blown. Replace the fuse and everything works, and they dont come back for the same reason. Never figured out what the cause was, apart from possibly the fuse just reaching the end of its lifeperiod. Nice to see the compressor apart, ive never taken one apart. Ive got one sitting at garage now, waiting to be sold. Its pretty mint so havent taken a closer look on it.
Hi! I have similar problem, today i changed both airbags on my f11 and now after 1 hour airbags deflates. Before changing it took 10-14 hours. Do you think i should check fuses on my car?
water build up fault is a inbuild design , just ready for the dealerships to charge the panic stricken owner for a new compressor and £500 for a fix that shouldn't be there in the first place. good video thanks
Dessicants normally need to be changed regularly, so I'm a bit surprised there isn't a more accessible way of doing this. In other industries there's a drier inspection window where you see a dessicant indicator (blue turning pink when moist). Just something to check annually here I think..
Absolutely right. Industrial compressors often have a regeneration cycle (heating/drying cycle) to release the captured water from the desiccant. I think it’s just too complex for these little vehicle compressors & they don’t think it’ll happen during the cars warranty period.... 😒
Hi mate, i have an issue with a 530d f11 , the auto level comes on and it says can't enable comfort mode . Once i stop the car for a while the error goes off and comes on after a bit of driving like 1 mile. Any idea where to start, i would really appreciate it. Also it doesn't sagg
Hi, I’ve just changed the compressor on my F02 and the car doesn’t want to raise up despite the compressor working. Did you have to reset it somehow or I have a different problem? Thanks!
I’d get some more of them beads and replace them in the future mate as them inside have done some work over last few years being a police car just a thought great video
I have fiddled a great deal with my Mercedes air suspension and it is more or less the same WABCO compressor used in Porsche, Landrover, BMW, AUDI, Jaguar and Mecedes. They have a slightly different design of the bracket, but essentially they are identical. But it is not normal that the dryer gets wet like that. That is a sign of serious problems When that happens it is pretty sure that you have a lot of moisture in the rest of your suspension system and that is a killer for the solenoids, valve blocks and even in the Bellows. I had that problem with my airmatic suspension on my Mercedes S211 and I ended up changing the compressor and a few other parts and rerouting the inlet air from a hose under the car (Everybody knows how much water and moisture there is under a car) to leading the hose up into the engine compartment after the logic: Id rather have hot dry air than cold moist air going in to the compressor and that did it for me. I did not have any problems with my air suspension on that car for the next 6 years :-) My wifes Mercedes had som issues with a droped tail end and I used a century (Mercedes) tester and found out, that the pump had gone bad due to wear and tear. It simply did not supply enough air and pressure to keep the car up but instead of using a small fortune on a new compressor, I searched the internet and found a guy in Scotland who makes new plastic piston rings and supply new gaskets (O-rings) and long bolts with lock-tite for very little money and you know how easy it is to dismantle and put together again. An one hour fix and the car worked and still works like clockwork after 5 years and 75.000 km You can get parts alot of places, but I prefer getting them at a guy who knows more about the WABCO compressors than most people and Andy is a very nice and helpfull guy www.bagpipingandy.com/
@@Nut_Job. Yub...And pretty easy on a Mercedes. The compressor is located in the front bumber. But it is at different story on BMW 5-series located in- or outside in the rear of the car :-/ But maybe you can let the inlet tube breath from inside the car ?
Great video, my 520D rear was completely dowm, followed the video step by step, inside was soaking wet, dried everything, problem did not fix, I think there is no power going into the air compressor, going to take the car to a bosch service to have a look, hope they won't rip me off!
Hi mate. Have to say thanks. It wasn't the same prob with mine, but I got it stripped and repaired (I think the solenoid was blocked - blew it all out with my compressor, and hey presto!) Thanks for posting the vid dude ;-)
Hi do you know if the 520GT has the same air compressor? My car just woke up pretty much relaxing on its rear wheels, but then when I started he engine it pumped up and became normal again
Yes I believe the GT uses the same/similar compressor. Although the 5 series GT is more like the 7 series than the 5 series in many aspects (I think). If it has inflated itself immediately then I wouldn’t worry - perhaps just keep an eye on it & see if any faults pop up on your idrive 👍
If the air pressure from the compressor is low then your piston rings may be worn. I think you can buy compressor rebuild kits for these units not too expensive.
Well, if you live somewhere with a fair bit of moisture in the air (like the UK) I’d say it’s mostly just a matter of time before the desiccant becomes saturated. Industrial air compressors usually have a means of heating up the desiccant to regenerate it, but that’s too complex for a little vehicle unit.
Do you think this could be the same issue if it’s holding air mostly when parked but sometimes slams down? Also when the engine starts it goes back to correct height but then after 10/15 mins the rear shocks go really solid and feels like there are no shocks on rear? Thanks
Do one.....it’s a high mileage ex police car and I’m sure the price reflected that when purchased.....the car will do another 200k once the main issues are rectified.
I must say it’s running very nicely now. There’s a few more areas where I expect to replace wear items like bushes etc, and I may remove the DPF and give it a damn good clean. But really I’m hoping to go well over 200k 👍
I own 3 BMWs. No to any 750. 2011 newer 535i. Great car. I have mine turned up a bit. All bolt on and programmed. 550 HP to the Ground. My 2006 530 is a monster. It’s tuned and what little bolt on I can get. I have 260k hard miles on it. The lifters make noise but I’m to lazy too replace them. But of my 5 series BMWs are solid cars. The 750i is not. When my 530i goes, I’m installing an LSX motor and 6 speed manual transmission. But I can’t seem to blow it up. I hope you have good luck buy one. Nut Job is a great Tech from what I can see. Keep the great information coming. Thanks!
I have this problem on one side the rear drivers side sometimes it’s down and other times it stays up the other day I heard air release when I got out I drove home and then it stopped and the air release had stopped and the ride height was back to normal, what could this be due too.
There is a small valve block with a solenoid controlling the air to either side of the car, so this could be sticking open/shut. These are not expensive to replace (£30 aftermarket), so I’d have a look at that. It is mounted right next to the compressor & you’ll find it if you follow either of the air lines back from the wheel 👍
Hi Nut Job, My BMW just had rear new suspension (Shock Absorbers). Still a sag to the left side by 10mm. Would you suggest replacing the AEROSUS suspension as well or trying to run this fix ^^
I got the exactly same car , same problem, just not the skills myself, took it into two garages , none of them fixed the issue, they had a re-set on the ECU or sth, they use the computer to adjust the wheel to the right height , and after one or two drives the chassis code came back again. I went to BMW to get a quote, it was 160 to diagnose to start with, around 500 pounds for each compressor, if the pump needs to be changed, it is over 1000 pounds, I don't know what to do, do you run a garage , can you get mine fixed please ?
Great video. Just had both airbags replaced due to same issue. Next day car is back down again. It does go up once the engine is fired up but would come down within 2hrs or so after shutting the car down. No errors or messages on idrive. Drive side always seems lower than passenger side. Could it be a compressor issue? My battery is currently very low so not sure if that could play a part.
If you’ve replaced both air bags then there must be a leak somewhere else on the system. I would look at 3 places; 1) check the air lines from the bags to the compressor in case there is some damage - spray soapy water on everything when pumped up to look for leaks. 2) it could be a failing valve block - this is a small unit that is connected between the compressor & air bags. Not expensive to replace either. 3) it could be the vent solenoid like in my video. Easy to check if you can remove the compressor like in my video & look for corrosion (very common in U.K., Europe & some parts of US)
Great job! Just wondering did you disconnect the battery before you took out the pump? Your vids help me a lot just to get to know my bm that i just bought. Thanks.
Hi great video. Is it still holding up? I have the same issue with my F11. The 40amp fuse blows. When I replaced the fuse, I works around a month, the I can i the compressor running after I have stopped the Car. After short time the end is lowered and fuse is blown again. Thanks
Not sure if you will reply in time, as im going back to bmw tomorrow. 2 months ago, i noticed car was lowered. I turned engine on and it rasied itself back to normal. This then continued, could lower after an hour or sometimes days and then every time i start engine it would go back to normal. So i bit the bullet, took to bmw and then diagnosed as it needing a new air compressor which i paid around £1.3.k to have sorted. Got car back and week later, it lowered. Gutted i am, because i go back tomorrow for them to take car back and look again and tell me know what they think is wrong. Ive suggested they got it wrong and they relaced a part which dodnt need replacing. They are digging heels in and saying a new fault has happened which is causing it to lower again. Have you got any ideas on how i can approach this. Thanks
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I TEMPORARILY FIX IT FOR FREE BY SWITCHING IT WITH FUSE 186 (START STOP) TO GET ME HOME! literally felt like I was riding waves in the ocean - galloping down the motorway head bobbin like Mr bobbin. Stopped at service station my jaw dropped as the backside looked like I just got back from Silverstone race track day. My brains thinking FFS new compressor? New air bags.. Watched your video and it was a bang my head on the wall moment.. Have I check the F'in fuse? 181 blown swapped out with 186 (start stop which is usually turned off anyway 😂) which I'll be replacing tomorrow.
That looks fantastic and relatively easy although I'm completely useless at that kind of thing so have to resort to the professionals who no doubt will want to simply replace compressor. But you have provided me with ammunition to mount an argument. Question - would you expect such a failure after only 36k miles? Many thanks
I've got the exact same symptoms - my F11 has sunk down on both sides at the rear. If I drive it, after a couple of minutes it is back up to normal ride height, but after a couple of days just sitting on the drive it drops down to the wheels again. I don't honestly have the skills to remove, dismantle and replace the compressor myself, but I can at least point a garage to this and hope it doesn't cost me the earth
There’s a good chance it’s the vent solenoid sticking. I was going to replace mine (you can see it’s corroded in the video) but I gave it a few minutes of careful banging to free up the internal movement & it’s been fine for months now. No parts needed, just a little time 👍
Amazing vid. Very impressive skills. I've got exactly the same problem with no error codes at all. Car will pump the air suspension up on starting currently so I can drive it but obviously that's not a fix. I've discussed with BMW who will just replace the bags but like you, I am doubtful that both sides would fail at the same time so I suspect the issue is the same as yours. I have absolutely no mechanical experience at all so am nervous about doing it myself. Any advice or pointers on getting the compressor off would be greatly appreciated.
I wish I’d recorded a video showing exactly how to access the compressor & remove it, as it’s pretty easy - but quicker to show with a video. I’ll see if I can do a quick vid for you and post it... if the rain stops outside... 😬
I don’t know for certain, but I’d be surprised if they changed the compressor. Even the compressors that vary slightly between chassis codes are almost identical in functionality anyway. I have replacement vent solenoid to install soon on mine, so I’ll do that at some point 👍
Actually, no because you can just unplug it at the compressor. I’m sure the workshop manual would say it’s best practice to disconnect the battery though 👍
I’ve just bought a 2012 520d touring at auction for personal use and the rear suspension has collapsed both sides, there is an orange chassis warning light on the dash, would this rule out the compressor? Or would it still be worth checking the fuses and removing and testing the compressor or could both air bags require replacement. Your thoughts would be welcomed
I’d definitely check the fuses first because it’s easy. If both sides are deflated then it’s unlikely to be the bag(s). When you unlock the car the compressor should kick in to try & raise the height - listen for the sound under the rear bumper. If it’s not a fuse I’d bet it’s either a compressor problem, a ride height sensor or maybe the control module is damaged.
That’s brilliant, thank you. Hoping I haven’t bought a pup. I have a lease car going back soon and with the Corona thing I thought it wise to buy a cheaper car as I don’t know how work will pan out. It’s been neglected but I can see there is potential,...but it’s bloody filthy, needs servicing, set of tyres etc
I’m sure it’ll be fine if you’re prepared to check over the neglected bits. Those compressors are pretty good & I hate it when people say they were sold a replacement... they can almost always be repaired for cheap 💷
Thanks a lot! That is such a nice video. Now that's when the rear of the car stays low because the compressor does not work. But what's wrong when the car "sinks" after about two days or so of not driving, and comes up within two minutes after one starts the engine? Are the air bags leaking in that case? How do they then stay pressurized during the drive? Thanks in advance.
Something is slowly venting down the air system. It could be a few things… possibly the solenoid vent valve like in my video, or a leaking joint or an air bag which has developed a crack/tear leak. If you fancy hunting for the leak I would suggest using a spray bottle with some soapy water (washing-up liquid in some water). Spray it on likely areas for leaks when the suspension is fully pumped up & look for bubbles!
I have the same issue with my car( compressor running few seconds but nut raising the level)..Can i drive it up to nearby workshop without air in the bags? Thanks
Technically it does drive, but if they’re very deflated then the ride could be VERY bouncy… mine deflated on the way home once & I was traveling about 70mph - got some intermittent bouncing from the rear which got pretty extreme. It helped once I slowed the car down, so I’d advise not going too far or too fast 👍
Hi, I was fascinating by your BMW compressor video especially as I am someone who doesn’t know one end of a screw driver from the other. Either way, I wanted your advice. I had a Chassis Restriction warning on my dashboard and then a month later the airbags collapsed, and I had them both replaced for £1,300! The chassis light came back on again a few weeks later and I took it to another garage who said I would need to replace the compressor pump although they suspected the valve in it might be faulty - quote to replace the entire pump: £1,300 plus labour. They did suggest I take a look on eBay to see if i could find the valve which I did, for £30 but also found a brand new compressor pump for £200. So the big questions I have is - would buying this cheaper pump be a fool’s errand? Is the BMW version an actual BMW manufactured part or is the one I found actually the same one just not supplied through BMW and therefore a 5th of the price? If not then do you think buying a cheap Chinese made replica of the compressor pump a risky option and should I bite the bullet and go for the BMW supplied one? They don’t seem to think its worth taking it apart and servicing and drying out the beads and filters. Would really appreciate thoughts on this.
I’m sure they don’t think it’s a good idea! 😆 And that is always the advice you will get from mechanics who are trying to give you their most ‘professional’ advice…. that doesn’t always mean it’s your best course of action. Just beware that if you give them the chance they’ll spend your money like there’s no tomorrow, so I always like to investigate things myself.
Came across a similar issue with my 5 series estate. After a couple of phone calls to bmw and a local garage, the highest quote was £1000+( bmw)and the lowest was £800( local garage). After watching the video and thinking it didn’t look too hard , I thought I’d give it a go myself. long story short I’ve saved myself plenty of cash , the only thing bought for this a new fuse and a £20 tool kit from Halfords. I saw this video was made last year , have you had any problems with it since?
