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Why not just make a fitting for each line. One that threads in from the transmission side and one that fits in for the quick connect fittings. No messing with a fancy block? 2 simple fittings. 😊
I want to tune my '16 6.7 cummins. Can you get a tuner that runs both legal and delete tunes. Id like the option to do either while im stuck in a liberal shthole state.
@19:15 mark, the S&S Rep offers anecdotal testimonial about his buddy's 6.7, who changed all his filters every 3k, getting bad fuel once...letting it sit for 2wks while on vacation, and having water & rust destroy his CP4. Rust in a closed system in 2 wks...really?
Hello my name is Brent with Thoroughbred Diesel ! Iam sorry that S&B tanks does not at this time does not make a 60 gal tank that fits your Dodge with a aftermarket one piece drive shaft . So what we have here here is too much talking and not enough engineering ! So get the tank made for the rest of us !!!!
Wade ask them or tell them we need a 60-65 gallon tank that will work with a one piece aftermarket drive shaft that is 5” diameter so far no body has made one and there are enough guys out there that need one.
I want a 60-65 gallon tank for my 05 Dodge 3500 4 door long bed dullay 5.9 cummins with 6 speed manual trans and manual 4x4 selector but I have a one piece drive shaft with factory ends for u-joints no not never from East Texas Dodge front and rear alum drive shafts at 5” diameter and 7 yrs and counting at 800 bucks no more carrier bearings and vibration s and I think it was 72” long and you need to take off two metal brackets stack on top of each other .
I am upgrading this part currently, as well as the one it plugs into with the wiring harness. I am having a lot of trouble getting the part it's plugged into on the other side of the transmission to drop down so I can swap the long line of wires. 2005 dodge ram 2500 5.9 cummins diesel.
Couple tips for everyone: 1) Getting the vband clamps off, if you have an SDS with a flat tip bit, i used that and a quick hit in hammer mode and clamps popped off right away 2) If you are doing this for replacing manifolds, go ahead and replace the coolant crossover because the top front driver's side stud is a pain to get to otherwise. 3) Remove the pipe to the left of the turbo that goes to the crossover. 2 8mm bolts, super easy. 4) The turbo should not be hard to get out. Rock it forward, rotate it so the front of the turbo is facing the passenger side a bit, pull and straighten it out as the wastegate clears. It took me about 8 seconds to get the turbo out. 5) When re-installing, put the vbands on one side of the piping first. Don't put it all together and try to get the bands on then. 6) Take the downpipe completely out (there is a 13mm bolt holding it in place). Take it out ASAP. This helps bet the driver's side up-pipe on and off. After the driver's up is installed, then install it to the turbo, then reinstall the bolt. Then install the passenger up pipe.
Awesome video. Thanks for this, you cleared up some parts other videos left out. You saved me a ton of time!! Will be shopping with you more to show some appreciation!
Thanks for an excellent step by step video. I had several garages tell me over $800 labor to replace the VP44. After watching this video I was able to change it out myself and I am not a mechanic by no means. Again, thanks for an excellent video, would not have tried this repair without it. 99 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L 24 valve.
I have a good lift pump and lift pump pressure I have some flow at injectors not a lot of pressure I had breakout box and truck still wouldn’t start I’m assuming vp is bad but would I still get some fuel at injectors if it was bad?
I think everyone should check out the FordF450 rear end cover. This cover is stock from the factory. I believe its manufactured by Dana, Whether its a requested by Ford or its a design feature by Dana. So the overall conclusion of this comment about Ribs and Aluminum construction is that BANKS can't be blowing smoke here, Its not just BANKS believing this is BETTER for reliability .
Great video!!! watched it a few times and just finished swapping mine out. I saved a little time by not removing the NOX sensor, just undo the 2 clamps and take the elbow out the side and set it on the suspension. the only other thing I did different was the bottom cooler line, if you massage the heatshild a little, you can get a 7/8" socket on it to undo it. all in all, one of the best if not the best video for this swap!! thank you!!
How pressure fuel pumps do not damage the lines or the injectors. That is a lie Ford started to get people to replace parts. There is a man who took one a part to show there are no shavings inside. A rubber seal blew inside.
I started the installation tonight and have run into an impasse. Does anyone have advice on breaking the last injector line loose? I can get wrenches on it, but I cannot get enough leverage to break it loose. I’ve tried a full size and a stubby. I’ve tried getting a crows foot on it but I cannot get that on due to how the nut is aligned. Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated because I may have to start putting stock parts back on it if I cannot manipulate this last fuel line…
Mine was the same but a 19mm crows foot worked. If you can get your wrenches on try linking long pattern wrenches to your stubby. Also you may have to take the box end of a cheap 19mm and cut out a section that will fit over the fuel line. My last resort was to remove the rear hoist bracket.
I recently had my 7.3 quit on me I was driving it and heard like a pop then die I was think hpop lines. It cranks no start but my oil light is on now and engine temp is and no lights whatsoever was on prior to this happened. After I got out and checked it leaked a lot of oil
Thank you for such a detailed video! And with the cab on to boot! I have watched this video twice and purchased my DCR from thoroughbred in preparation for my installation. 👍🏻
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And don’t forget to add that a brake down thousands of miles from home will cost a ton of money (tow, rental, flights, etc…). I run 60k-70k miles a year hauling 34k-37k pounds across the southern lane. I’d love to test out this pump. Already had the cpx pump explode after 25k miles, left me broke down in New Mexico so I know that route is definitely not a good one. It’s been more than a month and my truck is still not running after installing a new cp4 pump. Cpx pump is suppose to send metal straight to the tank but it seems like it sent metal straight through the whole system.
Dont mean to get off topic and barge in, I found your catalog of videos.... I've seen other videos explaining how to do this but I'd like to hear it from you. Lets say I or someone runs out of diesel. Truck is a '01 3500 Ram Cummins Turbo diesel dually. Whats the best most efficient method to get it primed and running again. I've heard crack 1,3 and 4 injectors, crank etc.... but I'd like to hear it from you guys. I'd really appreciate it. Overhead console DTE: OC and the fuel gauge quit. Need to order sending unit. But if I run out, I dont want to get hosed draining batteries and butning up a starter ;) THANK YOU!! @thoroughbreaddiesel
