That's a tough one because of the fumes overspray. If you were going to attempt that, suggested to have all the windows open with fans helping to force the air out. Large covering of cardboard or protective material on the flooring, hearth, and walls around the stove. Where a good paint mask, and let the room continue to air out for a couple hours once you are finished. Many stoves have a quick disconnect on the exhaust hub so you can remove the stove without taking apart the exhaust vent. We do recommend painting is done outside or in an 'open-air' type of shop or building. Spray paint is flammable so make sure there is no open flame anywhere near by. Hope that helps, any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. It sounds like you are referring to the pull release rod/handle for the burnpot bottom correct? If so, this video linked below which is a burnpot replacement video will show you how to reconnect the burnpot linkage. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ilOTLvmH06c.htmlsi=zVh876Zw6djaypZ_ If you need a new linkage kit please let us know. It is a different kit for the 1200i to the 1200 freestanding. Happy to help!

Glad the video was helpful! We have never carried or serviced the Lennox C260 wood insert. Looking at images of the stove online it does appear the door has hinges on the left when facing it - Those style of hinges usually have hinge pins or slick pins that hold the door in. If this is the case try using a screw driver and hammer to tap out the pins from underneath. Here is a company that offers this model and could be of further assistance here. www.ricksrentalandstoves.com/wood-stoves/inserts/lennox-wood-inserts/item/88-lennox-legacy-c260.html Hope that helps, thanks again!

Hey David, thanks for the message. Yes, the Harman P38 will use the 3/8" diameter rope gasket for both the firebox door and ash pan door - all years of manufacturing. Here is a link for reference. Any other questions please let us know. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-fire-door-ash-pan-door-rope-gasket-seal-kit-3-8-x-8/ Appreciated,

Hey David, thanks for the message. Yes, the Harman P38 will use the 3/8" diameter rope gasket for both the firebox door and ash pan door - all years of manufacturing. Here is a link for reference. Any other questions please let us know. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-harman-heatilator-fire-door-ash-pan-door-rope-gasket-seal-kit-3-8-x-8/ Appreciated,

Glad it was helpful! If you need any other assistance please let us know, always here to help! Thanks.

Amazing! Love to hear that, thanks for sharing! If you need anything in the future just let us know. Thanks!

Sorry to hear that; we'll be more mindful of the background music volume as we move forward. If you have any questions on stoves or best options for your situation just let us know. Thanks.

@@EarthSense Appreciate it. And that you even made this video at all. Good luck with your channel.

@@_Ag- Thanks so much, appreciated!

Most welcome! If you need anything else just drop us a line. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. I just looked through our old Quadrafire Castile manuals and service manuals, however there is no diagram or detailed information for replacing the tadpole door and glass gasket. We have been selling and servicing the Castle stove since it first arrived on the market. The design with the rods is a bit trickier as you see in the video compared to their later design with the fold over tabs. I do believe the door frame with the tabs is something that is available or can be ordered should you want to get away from the rod security design. If the rods were not installed over the gasket once the bulb was folded over, they could be putting additional pressure on the glass. Additionally for the bulb to seal properly against the door frame, the rods need to be over the gasket like you see in the video, otherwise the bulb would not be stable to create the seal when the door closes. If you need the owners manual or if we can help in any other way please let us know. Happy to assist. Thanks.

Thank you. I wish I lived in your service area but I live in Tacoma WA. The model year of my insert is 2005 serial number. 0071382906. I moved here in January 2023, as the newest owner of this little 1922 craftsman bungalow, with the cozy pellet stove. I do not have a copy of the owners manual but was able to find one online dated 2014. If you have a link for the one that would have come with my insert I would greatly appreciate it. The same company is retiring Sep 30th to replace the glass & the auger motor. If you don't mind I am going to send them a link to your you tube video & suggest they review their practices before coming out. The auger motor is working fine for now but the tech recognized something in the noise it makes that indicated it is going out. There are a couple of questions I have. One is do I need to do anything other than give it a thorough cleaning when it will not be used? Like treat or paint the firepot? The stove is controlled by an old Honeywell digital thermostat. Is there a newer WiFi thermostat that you could recommend? Thank you again for your help.

@@susandavis2134 Thanks for the message back, always happy to help. I dug through the archives and I found a 2003 Castile Insert owners manual. I believe this will be the most accurate to your 2005 model. Link here - pellethead.com/wp-content/uploads/man_castileinsert.pdf Yes, you are more than welcome to share our videos with anyone. Generally as auger motors start to fail you will either hear grinding/squealing while turning or you will notice fuel feed issues due to the motor getting weak. When the unit is not in use for extended periods of time (summer), after you perform the thorough cleaning we recommend plugging the vent pipe/chimney outside to prevent moisture from coming in. If the stove is in a high humidity area, the interior firebox can be sprayed with WD40 to prevent rust. If it's short term when it's not in use, just the cleaning is good. For the early Quadra-Fire models the original mechanical and basic digital wall mount thermostats were always the most tried and true. They do however offer a remote control thermostat pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-smart-batt-ii-remote-control-thermostat-oem/ As well as a digital programmable wall thermostat now. pellethead.com/product/quadrafire-programmable-wall-thermostat-w-wire-oem/. The newer Quadra-Fire Trekker insert will have a Bluetooth interface thermostat, but that technology isn't there for the earlier models. Hope that is helpful, any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

Thank you so much! They will be coming out mid October when the new glass arrives & install it & the auger motor. The operations manager offered me a very generous break on the parts & labor to install the new glass & install the new auger motor. I have learned a lot about caring for my pellet stove from you & this whole experience. Thank you so much!

@@susandavis2134 That is wonderful to hear! So glad we were able to be of assistance. Keep us posted how everything is working after your service appointment. Thanks again,

Thanks for contacting us. In doing a bit a research it looks like Findley has several different model wood stoves and wood cook stoves. Here is a company I found that has parts for this manufacturer and could possibly help you to figure out what gaskets are needed and provide those for you. woodstoves.on.ca/parts/findlay-wood-stove-parts/ I hope this is helpful. Thanks for reaching out. Thanks,

@@EarthSense Thank you!

Thanks for contacting us David, happy to assist. In looking at images of the Castle Serenity online it appear the door has small pins at the top and bottom that insert into bracket receivers on the outside of the door. The brackets appear to be welded from what I can see. Possibly see if you lift the door up if the bottom pin will come out of the receiver (Stove off and cool). We've never done technical service on this particular model, so apologies we can't guide further. If you can't door off, you can certainly replace the gasket with the door on, it will just be a bit more challenging. As for the sealant, as long as it is high temperature rated you are good to use it. Some folks use gasket cement, others will use a high temp silicone with a caulk gun. Generally we do the latter for our service and maintenance calls. The high temp silicone we offer with our gasket kits is rated to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep us posted on the door, happy to help how we can. This would be the aftermarket door gasket kit we offer for the Serenity model. pellethead.com/product/pellethead-replacement-ardisam-castle-hps10-serenity-fire-door-rope-gasket/ Thanks.

@EarthSense thank you for letting me know thes tid bits I did go ahead and did the work on my pellet stove oh yeah I did find those pins and wow it was that thing under my nose the whole time now that it's all done we wait till it's cold enough to start it up I do appreciate you got back to me about this topic however I am still interested in hearing about the caulking stuff I still used It's made by 3m it's called fire barrier don't have the tube with me to tell you the part number on it it's a red water based latex type stuff anyhoo that's done now I wait Thank you again

@@davidsteinfeld9123 Thanks for the message back, glad we were able to be of assistance. I looked up 3M Fire Barrier, and it shows it's only rated to 180 degrees Fahrenheight - Here is the link, you can confirm if this is what you used. www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-21404/Adhesives-Glue-Epoxy/3M-Fire-Barrier-Sealant-10-oz?pricode=WB2368&gadtype=pla&id=S-21404&gad_source=1 The high temperature caulking or cement that should be used for gasket will have a rating of 600 degrees Fahrenheit or greater. Here is an example of the sealant we use for gaskets. pellethead.com/product/nuflex-302-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-adhesive-10-2-oz/ If the caulking you used is only rated to 180 degrees, we would recommend redoing that replacement gasket seal with a high temperature sealant. Happy to help if you need it. Thanks again!

That's great to hear, glad the video was helpful. If you need any help or assistance down the road just let us know. Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us. The pellet stoves we have with WiFi require the user to be within a close range of the stove to turn it on. For safety reasons, manufacturers do not want to have the unit turn on when there isn't someone present. If you have to snowmobile in to the cabin, bringing pellet fuel in may be a challenge unless you have a system setup that will work well for you. We have several models that will adequately heat 2300sq ft in those temperatures. Having battery backup may be a nice option given the remote location. Please reach out to our team at 800-236-6647 so they can help guide you to the pratical options based off your application and needs. Thanks again for contacting us.

Thanks for the message, couple quick questions so we can best assist. What model St. Croix do you have? Does your St. Croix have a digital control board or a turn knob rotary control board? Happy to assist.

@@EarthSenseit’s an Afton bay serial# 3097 and has a digital control board. I bought new in2008

Thanks for contacting us. Unplug the igniter from the wires and plug your meter into the yellow and blue leads. If the igniter light is off on the board with the stove running there should be no power there. If there is power, the board is the culprit of not shutting off the igniter and should be replaced. Keep us posted, happy to help.

@@EarthSense i put a new board in that I purchased from you as a precaution. Again using a non contact meter. With the stove plugged in but off and only the status light lite Its showing power going thru both the yellow and blue wires. However the burn pot is not hot. But when it was lighting the yellow had current but the blue didn’t. I just want to confirm that everything is working correctly before I put a new burn pot in.

Great to hear! If you any future questions or need assistance just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to assist. First, let's verify the replacement thermal sensor. It should be part number P-1036 for the Davy Crockett model. The design/look and mount should be just like the existing sensor. GMG has different thermal sensors, so important to verify we are working with the correct one. If correct, let's double check The sensor connection wire molex plug to the control board - you should hear a click when fully locked in. Quick question, what was the grill doing when you decided to order the replacement thermal sensor?

Thanks for contacting us. Yes, it could be the blower low limit switch. For testing purposes only, you can bypass the switch to see if it is the issue. You can also run the blower with a test cord to direct power to determine if the motor is good or bad. Here are some additional links below that will cover these troubleshooting methods. Keep us posted, happy to help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FDVkbsHS95U.htmlsi=Tt8mLs3M_tVTUO34 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rlmiCYI2WPk.htmlsi=5Tk5Fk5hkMmUsWzC

Thanks so much!

Which Unit are you referring to Bryan? Through the 5 units here there is a pretty large span of pricing. Based on budget, heating capacity and features, we can certainly steer you towards what would be ideal choices. Happy to assist.

Thanks for the message. Generally speaking the rope gasket diameter will be 1 size up from the width of the door groove. If you know your Regency model, we can verify the correct replacement for your stove.

Thanks for your message. If you're replacing the control board, the new serial # which is the WiFi password, will be on the board. It's good to write it down before installing the control board if you plan to connect to the GMG Application for WiFi control. You can certainly cook/smoke/grill on the unit without connecting to WiFi just using the the push buttons on the control board. If assistance is needed connecting your phone to your grill for WiFi connection, please see our video here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--h2Vz-EcptQ.htmlsi=leelCdC0T6EA6cP_ We'll have a video coming soon on the newest GMG app for the Prime models. If you need any other assistance please let us know. Appreciated.

Thanks Tony!

Very glad it was helpful! If you have any other questions just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us, so sorry to hear of the issue here. When this happened were you able to contact us and go over the warranty? The camp stove has a 1 year manufacturer warranty on it. You do need cold water which circulates to cool the teg chip, and create the electricity. It does state to charge the unit with the supplied wall outlet adapter for the first use to ensure the battery has some juice. Were you able to charge the battery on a wall outlet before the first use as outlined in the manual? If the unit is started with a dead battery or close to dead, it can fry the teg chip. If you were not able to call in when this happened to cover warranty procedure the unit would now be past the 1 year manufacturer warranty. If this is the case and you would like a replacement we would be happy to offer you a 50% discount on a new one given the circumstance. Just let us know, happy to help how we can. Thanks.

Thanks so much for the message. Checking in with our Harman tech team to see what suggestions we have for you on next steps. We will follow up ASAP. Much Appreciated!

Thank you. Appreciate it.

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 Thanks for your patience. Let's double check the burnpot holes to make sure all are open/clear. Oftentimes carbon buildup can form blocking a key row of holes. Keep in mind, it's the super heated air passing by the igniter that rushes through those burnpot holes igniting the pellets. A good light, mirror, and small precision screwdriver will be very helpful tools to make sure they are all open and clear. Below I have a link to a Harman super scraper for the burnpot just for reference. If that all seems good, let's check the position of the igniter cradle and mount. Keep us posted, happy to hget you back to 100%! Thanks. pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-eco-choice-burnpot-firepot-grate-scraper-tool-aftermarket/

Thanx for getting back to me. I did do a thourough check of the burn pot, everything looked good, I even removed the igniter to make sure it was correctly positioned in cradle, it was. Put everything back, and ran a test run and now it works! I'm a little confused as to why it is working now as opposed to earlier.....but you must have some magic or something...lol. Thank you for all your help and these awesome do it yourself videos! I do plan on purchasing some tools from you in the near future like that scraper and a vacuum. Thanx again!

@@bubbiecarrillo9220 That's good news! I'm thinking it had to be just something slightly off with the igniter and cradle cage. So glad we could help and everything is up and running again. Any future questions please let us know! Thanks.

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. First put a jumper on the thermostat block to ensure it's getting full connection there even though the call light is on. Simply pull out the thermostat wires and place a large staple where the wires were, secure down tight to make a solid connection. Second, the combustion blower has to run before anything else will happen - Can you power the blower directly and see if it works? Video below on how to create a test cord for performing this. If there is no change when jumping the thermostat and if the combustion blower is good testing it to direct power, than that would be a pretty strong indication that the board/control box is bad. Keep us posted, happy to help get you back up and running again. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rlmiCYI2WPk.htmlsi=TQoxnTMnXj9eRXR9 Thanks,

Thanks. Yeah, depending on the stove manufacturer, model, and year manufactured, there can be variances with the glass gasket in type, size, and installation. Always important to pay close attention to the gasket you are replacing and to reference the owners manual for the replacement gasket type. Glad the video was helpful for you. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks Bro!

Thanks JP! Yeah, good note, appreciate that. Any questions or needs down the line just let us know. Thanks.

We Agree! The camp stove can run on wood, pellets or charcoal. Thank you for the feedback and if you have any questions please let us know.

Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we wouldn't have information regarding the dipswitch settings of an early board like that, we only have the outlines for the replacement control boards. Sorry we couldn't be of assistance here.

We wouldn't be familiar with propane oven gaskets or installation. If you can find a manual online for your model that can be a good place to start to find the right replacement part number. If you can't find any installation advice or videos pay close attention to how the old gasket is installed and mimic that for the replacement. Hope that helps. Thanks.

@@EarthSense Thank you

@@cbzombiequeen58 You're most welcome!

Thanks for contacting us. If your fuse is popping when you plug the unit in we have a direct electrical short somewhere. Does it happen when you plug it in and the dial is set to off, or does it happen when you turn the dial to Stove Temp/Room Temp? That will be helpful as we determine the culprit here. Let's inspect every wire in the stove starting with the combustion blower and Igniter. Most likely we have a bare wire somewhere touching metal and creating this short. Keep us posted, happy to help.

Thanks Bill! Glad the video was informative and that is a great tip! Really appreciated! Any questions or needs down the road just let us know. Thanks!

Hey Jim, I just left a comment on the other post for you. Thanks for confirming you have replaced the control box. I think we either have an issue with the thermostat terminal block or we have an issue with the Junction Box wiring harness where the control box slides into. See the other comment I left and keep us posted. Happy to help. Thanks.

So glad to hear it was helpful, thanks!

Thanks for contacting us. There is no power supply to the pressure switch. As the diaphragm opens and closes with pressure or vacuum it simply creates or breaks the circuit to the auger feed motor. I saw your second message and will respond to that as well. Thanks.

@@EarthSense there are two wires connected to the pressure switch when there is pressure it should connect the two wires completing the circuit. Where does the power come from for that wire? I know out of the brain box but something Elsa makes that determination? I have no power at the vac. Switch

@@JimHaskell-es8pe Hey Jim, the wires that run to the pressure switch will go into the junction box wire harness assembly where your control box plugs into. Unless the wire was loose inside the junction box, the control board/brain box is providing the electrical signals. We have run across issues before with the junction box, although not that common and it usually has to do with the receiving end for the control box.

I have replaced the control box and still the same no power

Thanks for the message. Let's take a close look at the thermostat terminal where your thermostat wires go into. Get a good light and inspect all wiring and connections. If possible, try an alternate low millivolt thermostat. You can also jumper the thermostat terminal by placing a paperclip or large staple between the two thermostat wire connection points. Let us know if you're call light comes on when you jumper that. Happy to help get you back up and running. Thanks.

@@EarthSense that does nothing. Ther is only like 3 volts at the thermostat wires. Same where they come out of the box. The call light still does not come on.

Yes I did jump the thermostat wires also.

@@JimHaskell-es8pe Thanks for the message back. Let me check in with our tech team and circle back around to you Jim. Be in touch soon.

@@EarthSense thank you.

Thanks for contacting us. If you are able to, take the board to a local dealer and see if they can test it for you. It sounds like it could be an issue with the control box. Additionally, inspect your thermocouple. Check the wiring connections and pull off the ceramic cover to ensure the wires are soldered at the end. Keep us posted, happy to help!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? If it is a Quadra-Fire, we would want to take a closer look at the thermocouple. Is there any blinking lights on the control box?

Glad the video was helpful. Yeah the camp stove is pretty cool - if you have any other questions on it just let us know. Thanks!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. If it is a smoke smell that you are experiencing we have a vent pipe leak somewhere. All 3" or 4" PL pellet vent has to be siliconed at every pipe joint to prevent smoke/carbon monoxide from coming out into the home. You should be able to pick up a handheld CO meter to check all of the venting connections to determine where the vent pipe is leaking and then use high temperature silicone to seal everything up. There should be no smoke smell during operation or start-up. Yes, typically we want to avoid putting a screen on the outside vent pipe as it can restrict the exhaust and create issues. There's several different types of end caps if you are in a high wind area. For pellets you will notice a difference in heat output, cleanliness, and ash content between different pellet fuels, but again if you are smelling smoke at all then we need to inspect the exhaust vent pipe connections and connection to the exhaust hub on the stove. Feel free to email us images of your venting configuration for better assistance to info@pellethead.com. Keep us posted. Thanks!

@@EarthSense Good morning Taylor. Thanks for the information, I did seal up the seams with aluminum tape. I'll send some pictures over with what it looks like and what I have done. Have a great day !

​@@raymondhoagland4976 Good Morning Raymond! The images you sent were forwarded over to me and I have reviewed. Overall venting configuration looks good - Looks like there is proper clearance on the outside to both the window and the deck above. Couple Notes: The aluminum tape can be good for certain applications, however for PL vent pipe seams and connections we generally will still see smoke leakage if there is just aluminum tape over the connections. We would suggest peeling the tape off and using a high temperature silicone sealant around every seam and connection, where the vent goes through the wall thimble on both the inside and outside as well as where the pipe connects to the cast iron exhaust hub on the unit. If you can get your hands on a handheld CO meter, this will be a great tool to identify areas in the venting where there may be leaks. For our installs and inspections for self installs we will cover up 1/3 of the end cap outside with aluminum tape so that more pressure is put on the venting seals/seams. Upon startup while the stove is igniting/smoking is when we use the CO meter to detect an areas that are leaking and apply additional silicone. Once we are getting zero readings on the meter then we remove the tape on the outside for proper air flow. Additionally I see that you have a 90 degree elbow coming out from the stove to go vertical. This is acceptable, however you will find that ash will accumulate much quicker in the elbow creating air restriction over time that will affect the stoves performance. Typically in an install like this we would use a TEE vent pipe with a bottom cleanout cap from the stove to go vertically. Less restriction and you don't have to pull the pipe off the stove to get the ash out like you would need to do with the 90 degree elbow. How does your fire look during operation? Is it crisp and torchy or is it lazy in any way? Here are some reference Links. High Temp Silicone: pellethead.com/product/nuflex-302-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-adhesive-10-2-oz/ CO Meter Option: www.walmart.com/ip/SMART-SENSOR-Handheld-Carbon-Monoxide-Meter-Portable-CO-Gas-Leak-Detector-High-Precision-CO-Detector-Gas-Analyzer-CO-Gas-Monitor-Tester-1000ppm/268208415?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101223618 Venting TEE Example: www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-PelletVent-3-in-Tee-with-Clean-Out-Cap-3PVL-T/100679714?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028_020_FIRE-NA-MULTI-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PMAX_SHP&gad_source=1 Keep us posted, happy to help!

@@EarthSense Thanks so much for the information Taylor. Normally on start up I would check for leakage with a light and then would use the aluminum tape to seal the areas. I have some high temperature silicone sealant and will look into getting a CO meter and changing out the elbow to a TEE vent for easier clean out. Thank you for all the tips and links. I've cleaned the stove quite a few times and am learning on the fly, the flame looks good when fired up. When running the stove do you think it would be wise to run the window fan ? Thanks again for all of your help, I'll be making the necessary changes before fall sets in next year and let you know how things go.

@@raymondhoagland4976 You're most welcome Raymond! Glad the flame is looking nice and crisp - that's what we want. Another great cleaning tip that we perform for folks in the off-season is using a leafblower vac on the outside exhaust vent. With the stove off and cool we put the sucking part on the outside and it does a great job pulling out accumulated ash that is difficult to get to in the vent pipe, and combustion pathways. If you need any operation or cleaning manual for the P43 just let me know and we will get that over to you via email. As far as the window fan goes, that's something to analyze a bit more. I believe you put that in because of the smoke smell. Again, as we get everything sealed up tight you will no longer have any smell inside the house during start-up or operation unless power is lost during operation. Some folks will use different fans to help circulate the heat in the area which can work well, but if your current window fan is pulling air from the room and distributing it outside then I would say you can do away with that once you reconfigure and seal the venting up with the silicone. Always here and happy to help, keep us posted!

Thanks for contacting us, happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? The pressure switch will shut off power to the auger motor if it is tripped or faulty or if you remove the hose or one of the electrical connections. Sounds like your switch is working exactly as it is supposed to. Generally if the auger motor is running continously and not cycling, it's an issue with the control board, but first let us know your stove make and model and we can better assist with that info. Thanks,