@@texan90 it's a good running cam I'd recommended staying around 9.5:1 compression with it. I run 10:1 with this engine zero decked and all cast iron and it runs fine but it requires premium fuel and it's fairly picky with fuel quality to keep it from pinging.

@@MattsRageFitGarage I was planning a basic 9.0-9.5 build, with very few external mods other than headers and maybe a 4bbl carb. I am mostly planning to keep it all internal mods, and just as an occasional driver. I'm excited to rebuild this truck, as it was my Grandpa's.

@@texan90 Get yourself a set of the L2291F pistons they are the only 390 pistons besides a hypereutectic set that Keith black sells that comes up close to the top of the deck. The L2291F come up to .016" in the hole in an undecked block and using a .041" head gasket with 72-74cc chambers winds up around 9.3:1. The other KB pistons come up about .010" in the block and will yield around 9:1 compression with the same gasket and head chamber sizes because they are a dished piston. This engine is stock other than the pistons, being zero decked and the cam. It still has exhaust manifolds, stock intake and a 500 CFM 4 barrel and runs excellent. Way more power than I ever expected out of it. Everybody I ever pinned back in the seat with it was pretty surprised as well.

@@MattsRageFitGarage I actually have a 360, and I'm not planning to stroke it to a 390, because my Grandpa ordered the 360. I'm honestly curious to see how it all comes out when done.

@@texan90 If staying with the 360 a great way to get around it being a dog and not putting a 390 rotating assembly is just have a custom set of pistons made to get the quench correct and the desired compression ratio you want. That's what I would do, it would be well worth it.

Yeah that's a Mr gasket heat shield and sacked plate heat shield as well. It was definitely an improvement on hot days.

Turn the screw counterclockwise for more choke pull off, clockwise for less pull off.

Yeah some run great and some don't. I've never really been able to figure out why when I've had to work on them.

Yeah I hear "Oh Honda mowers are awesome and last forever" pretty often and I just try not to cringe anymore. Yeah, they're pretty good mowers but I'm still using my dads $125 1977 Lawn chief 20" with a 3.5HP Briggs that hit 1000 running hours 20 years ago and it still starts first pull 99% of the time and runs just like it always has. The predator and Honda GX engines are way better than the GC engines. This predator engine is still going great although last year I did open the main jet up .002" with a precision drill bit and it made a huge difference in how it runs under load at full throttle. I used to service several pressure washers a guy owned for his business for about 20 years and until I started working on his equipment those things ran 15 years in a commercial environment without even an oil change and they still run great to this day. There were two GX200 Honda engines, a GX270, two GX340's and a GX390 and they all went through total hell. That guy is hard on his equipment. Honda for some reason likes to use the self tapping bolts on their aluminum especially with the GC engines. Repeated use of those will eventually wear/strip the threads out. Notice the ends of the threads have a bit of a knurled look to them?

@@MattsRageFitGarage You replied so quick! I have an old GE400 on a Honda EM4000 generator. Can't find much info online about repairing it. Can you take q uick look at this video? ru-vid.comnCJRN5RAClQ?feature=share It's got some knocking and smoke, burning oil, but it idles around the correct RPM and does have power at the generator. It dies when the low oil sensor is tripped. I'm going to pull the valve cover, have not checked it, but I did pull the carb and run it through ultrasonic. Compression feels good but I guess I should check that with my kit..

I've experimented quite a bit with the base timing. I've ran it anywhere from 8-14* BTDC and found 12-14* BTDC to be ideal. I get 13-14" vacuum at 700 RPM but this engine produces very high cranking compression. 200-210 PSI on a cold engine that hasn't run for a few days so that might have something to do with it.

That's hilarious, I have gotten numerous compliments on how this exhaust sounds on this car in person numerous times. The phone audio does not help and it has a custom exhaust system with an H pipe already. I own two FE cars with the same mufflers now and they both sound radically different. This is a daily driver not a drag car.

@@MattsRageFitGarage Well its like Beauty is in the yes of the beholder thing. I know many people who have FUGLY wives who think they are beautiful. Been doing the FE thing a really long time, There has been less than 10 street cars I can actually say I have heard that sound good.

@@RipitRon One thing I will say is these mufflers sound a lot different now than in this clip. They've become a lot louder and more aggressive sounding and for some reason the more miles I put on this engine the smoother the exhaust note at idle is becoming. I don't know what it is with the FE's, the tone they produce or what, but I have had a horrible time with two cameras, and various cell phones trying to record audio that actually sounds like it does in person. They always wind up sounding either really splattery or muted/muffled in the audio when they don't sound like that at all in person. But yeah, most of the FE's I hear at car shows I don't like the sound of either, mostly because they're running on 7 cylinders and jimbob doesn't know any better. I do remember this one time I went to a car show, saw an extremely nice 63.5 R code 427 galaxie. My dad and I waited around to hear it start up. It was the most muffled, quietest, shittiest sounding thing I have ever heard for a V8 in my life. Extremely disappointed in that one, it didn't even have a V8 note at idle, sounded toneless and smooth. Still have never figured out how that guy made that thing sound so bad and it's been 10 + years.

@@MattsRageFitGarage I will tell you that I have had 7 vehicles with FE's (3) presently and my 60 Starliner is a 450 Ci Roller motor with Fuel Injection 10.2-1 compression with Headers, an X pipe and a set of Borla XR-1 Multicore Mufflers under the rear quarter panels and it is the best most refined FE I have ever heard. My 61 Thunderbird (restomod) has a 482 Ci Stroker Injected FE in it with the same system it is a little lower on Comp ration 9.8-1 and it too has same system but in 3" and it is a bit loud for me.....But still very refined. The thing about the FE is if your into that old school Farm tractor sound then the FE is for you, if your more into a finely tuned exhaust note....Brink your wallet because your going to need it.

@@RipitRon Yeah, they definitely have a guttural sound to them. I guess that's why so many people say the FE has their own sound. The 445 stroker with a Comp 294S in my dad's galaxie doesn't sound like that though, it's pretty lively and the first 3" exhaust sounded pretty good, but it was extremely loud to the point we had the whole system re done in 2.5" just like this one with the same mufflers and all. It quieted it down to the point we can halfway have a conversation now but it's still really loud. One thing I will say, the low end torque and throttle response increased a lot going from true dual 3" to 2.5" with H pipe, and it wasn't lacking either to start with and it sped the idle RPM up almost 100 RPM just changing the exhaust system. Pretty weird.

No I never bothered to attempt it after doing the muffler mod it has excellent power and response as is.

@@MattsRageFitGarage okay I literally just did the muffler mod tonight and cleaned the exhaust port hopefully it will help it a lot

@@scufxz6841 I later bought the 20" swath guard the SRM3020 comes with and this thing has plenty of power even with the 20" swath and .105" line with the muffler mod and carb retune.

@@MattsRageFitGarage oh wow

@@MattsRageFitGarage I wonder how well it would do with a pole saw attachment

It's a nice running cam for its size. I've since added a 7" single diaphragm power brake booster and it has plenty of vacuum to run that as well. What compression ratio are you planning on running with it?

Yeah these Flowmaster flow FX are a Magnaflow style muffler, that's why they don't have the hollow sound. My other galaxie, the one I'm having re done has 3" pipe with Magnaflow copycat mufflers, it's obscenely loud and to add to it, the crappy electric exhaust cutouts leak like crazy. I'm having that car re done to have basically the exact same setup as this car, same mufflers too and no more exhaust cutouts. I don't mind it loud, but I've had 3 people tell me it sounds like it's ready to go down the drag strip and my tinnitus is flared up after driving that car...LOL

13-15" at idle in gear depending on temperature and going down the road I get stock levels. At 2900 RPM cruising 60 MPH I get 16-18". Actually, I get that at any speed above about 1300 RPM It runs a 7" single diaphragm brake booster perfectly fine.

Yep, I've been digging those plugs out for years. The aftermarket replacement carbs often don't even have the plugs installed.

@@MattsRageFitGaragehow do you get the black plastic plugs out of there?

@@NoNew42 Heat up a miniature flat blade screwdriver with a torch until it just turns red, push it into the black plastic plug and hold it there until it cools then you should be able to thread the plug out of the brass holder. To remove the brass holder, take the priming block off of the carburetor and turn the mixture screw out until it presses the brass holder out of the carb body. I usually just take the priming block off and push the hot screwdriver through until I find the mixture screw slot and unthread it so it pushes the plug and brass holder out at the same time.

@@MattsRageFitGarage I heated up a tiny screw and threaded it slightly into the black stopper until it could freely hang there. Let it rest for a minute and it came right out when I pulled on the screw. I was able to reach the flathead adjustment screw. Thanks for the info. This was on a brand new SRM-2320T btw. It’s an absolute unit now.

@@NoNew42 Glad to hear the screw trick worked!

A shitty driving and rough riding bullnose, it is!

It runs like a top!

No need, it makes tremendous power for its size and no longer burns my arm on the front cover of the engine. Even if I had a big bore weedeater, I'd do the same exact thing to it as I did to this one.

Not too shabby for a 4 door daily driver, eh?

It is quite the neck snapping machine. Thanks!

Yeah, the timing not changing around from the pivot plate helped a lot with the non-stock camshaft and high compression of this engine. The original 352 with the 186/186 @.050" .400" lift cam didn't seem to care. I suppose if I had an OEM vacuum can that was actually designed to work with the pivoting design would work better. These new vacuum advance cans although adjustable are capable of pulling a lot more degrees of timing than the originals did. I eventually had to go back again and change the centrifugal advance curve a bit from what I had in this video. I kept the light spring and reused a factory heavy spring and set it up, so it did nothing until about 50% advance travel to delay the advance in the 1900-2300 RPM range to keep it from pinging and set it to come all in at 3300 RPM. It's never pinged once ever since and no loss of throttle response or performance. I basically wound up recreating the stock curve but it's all coming in a little earlier using a light/heavy spring instead of the stock mediu/ heavy springs. Also, not sure what those guys needing a 32oz set of points are revving to, but I found those blue streak lubripoints at 17-18 OZ tension @.020" gap to be plenty sufficient to 6000 RPM with no point bounce and the rubbing blocks are wearing very slowly. I bought quite the haul of NOS borg warner A101V points and Niehoff FF9HV (they look identical to Motorcraft DP12) and found the tensions to be set all over the place, some pretty high and I think that is why some people complain about always having to readjust points, the tension too strong is hard on the rubbing block for no practical reason. I also took the time to set the contacts to seat square and I cleaned the contacts and buffed them to a high shine with a brass wire wheel on a dremel. This seems to get the points resistance right to 0 ohm or dang near it. I took this car to a free cruise in car show that's held in a huge field next to a junk yard pretty close to me right after I put this engine in it. I got there early and by the time I went to start this thing up to leave there were a whole line of people behind me and a group of people in lawn chairs about 10 feet behind my car that hadn't heard it run. It was hot, so I had to stick my foot to the floor to get this thing restarted and when it started, they all jumped out of their chairs and some woman I swear saw a ghost by what she said. I know they all looked at this car and engine and they certainly didn't expect it to sound like it does. I laughed all the way out of there.

I like that Summit carb more and more all the time! if my original Autolite 4100 had a good body I would have restored it and used that but this is the next best thing.

@@MattsRageFitGarage Yep that's the issue, some people rammed the idle mixture screw in, ruining the port, or they warp. I was lucky mine was ok. The Autolite 4100 on my 66 was not the correct one, but I did find the correct date coded one and overhauled it. The car ran superb. It was all 100% numbers and date matching car, except for the carb and starter. The starter was a 67. I sold my 66 Galaxie to a guy in Northern Idaho last spring. I did 200 videos on restoring it. I like how you used a Motorcraft electric choke off the alternator. I so often see them hooked up off the ignition, overloading that circuit, along with heating the choke on a non running engine. My 86 F150 XLT Lariat, that I owned back in the day, had fuel injection.... It was a 302 with a four speed manual. I would have thought your F250 would have been fuel injection.....

@@OldCarAlley My Autolite 4100 had a warped carb base and it needed throttle shaft bushings, which I bought a kit to do but after using the reamer the Made in CHINA bushing/reamer kit reamed the holes .003" larger than the bushing diameter, not smaller. I tried JB weld on the bushings, one of them fit tight after building up some JB weld on them and the other 3 didn't and the carb cracked when I tapped on the bushing with a hammer, so I just gave up at that point. The Motorcraft 7 volt choke works fantastic, it very closely mimics a hot air or divorced choke action in all weather conditions. Much better than the crappy 12 volt universal choke caps that aftermarket carbs come with. They say to use 12 volt key on but by the time it gets 14-15 volts it's hard to keep them adjusted and they turn the choke back on way too fast after shutting the vehicle off when it doesn't need choke. These Motorcraft caps have a lot more windings on the spring and hold heat a lot longer than the universal 12 volt caps do no matter the tension setting. Not only that, but 12 volt key on also sucks because if you don't start the engine right away the choke is already warming up instead of getting a consistent 7 volts from the alternator only when the engine is turning the alternator. My F250 is a bit of a weird one, it's a 7700 GVWR RWD 5.8 4V HO C6 auto truck with a semi floating 10.25 sterling. No fuel return lines, Duraspark II from the factory, one of the last non computerized trucks.

@@MattsRageFitGarage Yeah.... I do my best to stay away from any Chinese tools or parts, but now days its hard to find things made here, related to old cars.

@@OldCarAlley That is why I kept this car as stock as I did. I reused everything OEM or NOS I could and modified some stuff, but it still looks 99% stock. I built the drivetrain on this car after I built my dad's galaxie with him, that thing has a 390 based 445 stroker, rollerized c6 with gearvendors overdrive, very fast car but a lot of the aftermarket bolt on parts we bought needed bought again or worked over and it was just a total pain. This car is my nice weather daily driver and it fools a lot of people that don't know what really has been done to it. I took all that stock stuff that people say is no good and well, it is good and better than I ever thought it could be. For example, that FX small case cruise o matic a lot of people say is junk, I found it to be a very sturdy built transmission when I rebuilt it. A simple major overhaul kit and I took the torque converter to a local torque converter shop and had them cut the converter open and raise the stall speed a bit to 2200, transgo shift correction kit and an external cooler that thing is the best shifting automatic I've ever had. I really laugh at the anti FE stock intake and exhaust manifold guys. Yeah, they aren't the greatest but this thing revs to 6000 RPM no problem and pulls hard all the way, with nothing more than a small-decent sized camshaft and pistons that come up to the top of the deck. With two sets of ignition contact points at 17oz tension @.020" gap on top of it all. I have a video of the ignition setup I have on this car, it's a unique setup from the good ol' days and it actually works.

I like it more every time I drive it. Thanks, it was a lot of work to get it to look like that lol. I've also had the 600 cfm version for 10 years.

The 600 CFM seemed like it was plenty for it and despite being extensively tuned it averages 7-10 MPG around town driving it easy. The original Autolite 4100 1.12 carb this car came new with was only 500-525 CFM and set up with 48/55 jets. I figured this more performance oriented 500 CFM summit carb would be just fine for it. Really happy with how it runs. It cold starts better than the Holley, I can throw it into reverse right off the bat and drive away without it wanting to quit from the lean spike and I can run this carb nearly 1 point leaner on average on the idle, transfer slot and main circuit without surging than the 600 CFM Holley. I haven't driven it enough to see what the MPG is but I get the feeling it'll be better than the Holley. And yes, that's an AFR gauge. The throttle response off idle is EFI like and it's quieter cruising down the highway as well. I've also had the 600 CFM version of this carb on my truck for 10 years and it's been a fantastic trouble-free running carb and I ran it on this engine for a little while as well.

Clocks and gauges .com and they have an eBay account that's where I got mine. I was lucky and my car had a borg made clock so i was able to buy the quartz movement and just install it. It's been dead on within a minute for about 3 weeks now.

Thanks. Messy sparkplug wires are one of my pet peeves lol.

It has no problem giving whiplash that is for sure lol thanks!

@@CrazyBritishbitch33 umm ok 👍

I got mega spammed by that bitch. I got a lot of spam replies on videos that aren't mine too. I wish I had that kind of time to waste lol.

Yeah really unhappy with their stuff. That summit racing rebranded MSD distributor works fantastic and it costs less than the pertronix distributors if someone wants to go to a ready to run style distributor.

Yeah, stock manifolds I resurfaced on a large belt sander. I see no need for headers with this engine it makes a ton of power and revs to the redline really fast.

Glad to hear it! the audio did pretty good on this compared to my last exhaust rev video lol.

Glad it was of use!

Still using the same 3.5HP B&S push mower every week my dad bought new almost 46 years ago.

@@MattsRageFitGarage heck yeah man with regular maintenance those things last forever it's just so surprising to me how people just throw away these mowers and so on when there's almost nothing wrong with them

@@CrazyBritishbitch33 oh ok 👍

This one is extremely loud on top of it, not sure why but it drowns out any other V8 car including some 427's I've seen at car shows with exhaust cutouts.

This car never had those additional resonator silencers. I eventually ditched the tailpipes and just ran them out at a 90 degree turndown facing towards the outside of the car.

@@MattsRageFitGarage o iight I got a 94 they came with em I just dropped it off at the shop

Yes, originally a 352 4 barrel car. It sure pisses some people off a car shows, looks all stock but it's a bit of a different story when I fire it up. They probably think it's a turd just looking at it seeing the 352 badge on the air cleaner housing.

At this point I'm pretty sure Holley tech support themselves don't even know about it.

310-330 hp is my guess. Torque should be about 425 or so.

Thanks. It was a lot of hard work but worth it. I have another one way nicer than this. This is just my daily driver on nice days.

I don't know why mine is the way it is. My brother has a karcher pressure washer from 2007 with a GC190 and it always starts easily and runs good. It's hit and miss with the Honda GC engines, some run great and others never run quite right.

@@MattsRageFitGarage My honda lawnmower has a gc 160 and it's the same story, starts easily and runs smoothly. While ohv engines are preferable over ohc engines for longevity, my ohc Honda's have been solid. That being said, the carbs are sensitive to ethanol contamination, run a decent fuel stabilizer and they'll last.

@@andrewb9708 I have noticed the Honda engines that run a direct drive with a load have seemed to be the easier starting engines. I've worked on a lot of Honda lawnmowers and the ones without BBC usually started easier, and the older they are the better they ran.

It's a lot sweeter now than it was in this video.

Yeah, disconnect the choke power wire, if the engine is chugging turn the screw counter-clockwise to open the choke pull off more. If it starts up, runs lean and wants to die a few seconds after starting turn the screw clockwise until it just starts to chug then back it off a tad so it runs smooth. After that you may need to do some fine tweaking to get it perfect, but that will get you in the ballpark.

They are sold at Harbor Freight.

Still running like a champ! I cant remember the turns out it wasn't much more than factory setting.

@@MattsRageFitGarage thanks for the quick reply! just ordered the used gt muffler off ebay... ill report back after the mod.

@@MattsRageFitGarage hey man how's it going! got the muffler and carb mod done today. my carb factory setting (high jet) was 1 3/4 turns out... and you were right about not being out much past factory. after she cooled down i checked the new setting, it's out ~2 1/8 now. seems to run a little cooler and spark plug was a milk chocolate color. all good here and just in time for summer. thanks again for video!

@@mrmojorisen6336 Glad to hear it. Did you notice an increase in power?

@@MattsRageFitGarage absolutely! we have 9.5 acres, mostly woods. i run string, 3 point cutter and chainsaw blade. just like in your vid, the tall wet grass and reeds round our pond is what gave me the most trouble before the mod. trimmer would usual burn my forearm and bog. now with black diamond line, cuts MUCH better and A LOT cooler. BTW, running ethanol free gas and VP racing synthetic premix.

For sure. I tried fixing the original and got it really nicely done except it had a crack in the middle of the seam that wouldn't seal up no matter how much I tried soldering it. Oh well, it was worth a try. I actually have two of these cars, both have this tank now. This is the daily driver.